January 15th, 2014
OK. Sorry for the trouble with the last post attempt. Hopefully, this post will not create a problem.
This is my first post though I have been lurking for a while and have really enjoyed the creativity and inspiration provided by all of you. I'm looking forward to learning more!
Here is my new paludarium build and my first attempt at a build such as this. My hope is to create the appearance of a cliff with land mass jutting out above and beach area below. The water section will be sparsely planted. My thought was to create a bonsai forest on top of the cliff. I am not sure of options for species that can interact with the land section and would love your input on this...
Tank dimensions- 47" x 22" D x 19.5" H
Light- Medium-high LEDs though I have not measured PAR levels- about 12" above water level
Substrate- Medium Sand on the bottom with some Microbe-Lift Aquatic Plant Media. I used some spare Fluval Stratum and top soil for the land area
Filtration is via a 45g diy sump with biomedia and separate refugium
I am also using a MistKing misting system for the emersed plants/bonsai
Background- These are real rocks that are foamed together with black expanding foam to create a nice stable cliff-like appearance (no worry of falling rocks here)
Rocks were chosen to fit together and then foamed. Sand is piled up initially and pressed into foam before it fully cures/sets to give a more natural appearance. I like the way this has turned out so far. Will let you know how it stands up over time.
I used styrofoam to support the rocks while the foam cured and then removed it. The styrofoam was replaced with a PVC and egg crate false bottom to support the land area.
View from behind showing the foam 'seams' that will completely separate the land section.
Plumbing is hidden behind the cliff and enters the water area through a couple of small supply holes built into the cliff wall. Detail view below.
I used some weed barrier fabric over the egg crate to allow water to travel under the front gravel section in the area of the submersed cliff. This will allow this area to be 'flooded' so I can have some emersed plants that like wet feet. I am thinking of an HC carpet here that will be partially emersed. In the areas of land that I want to keep dry, I am using some spare EPDM rubber pond liner that I had laying around that I siliconed to the back side of the rock cliff. This is being supported by the false bottom.
Perspective view of the tank positioned in the living room wall unit.
Starting to plant and stock with some colored skirt tetras, danios, and Endlers.
Couple of detail shots.
Side is viewable as well showing open top. Water is still hazy in this pic.
I'm experimenting with some mosses for the land portion. Need something that likes light!
This is where I'm at right now in the build. I will post updates when I've had a chance to plant the land section.
Are there any suggestions on a semi-aquatic species that will get along with fish and perhaps come out on the land section without risk of escape through the open top? FW crab maybe?
Also, any thoughts on some nice submersed plants that are small leaved and will maintain the desired scale? I don't want a broad-leafed or stem plant that will look too large in perspective.
Thanks for your input in advance.
November 20th, 2013
Hey there, my name is Alex, i'm from Romania and for the past year i toyed with a colorful "island scape".
But first, a few words about the tank :
-lenght : 100 cm
-width : 55 cm
-hight : 45 cm
-lighting : 3xGiesmann Aquaflora [39w], 3xGiesmann Midday [39w]
-external filters : 2
-heater : 1 AquaEl ComfortZone 300w
-pressurised, 2 bubbles per second with DIY reactor
-DIY plus some Easy Life Easy Carbo
-20 Ember tetras, 3 Glass bloodfin tetras and 1 Siamese algae eater
Here are some clips of Tranquility Island :
And the last pics of the Island setup :
And more pics :
Up next i'll show you the 2 week old scape, with a dutch touch.
October 27th, 2013
I've been gathering info on this forum for a long time and wanted to share one of my tanks with you.
It is mentioned as a planted Vietnamese biotope on a budget resembling a Vietnamese river stream. I've a 100 gallon planted community tank and used this 10 gallon as a breeding tank for my angelfish. I sold my angelfish and wanted to turn it over cheap. I took out the corner filter and used the pump only with a sponge. Took out the broken 15W ballast and replaced it with a 36W and added another 15W t8 (see pictures), one 3.000K and one 14.000K old but still grows plants and algae Painted the inside white to save on reflectors and added a free 95gram co2 set which I later replaced with the 500gram spare bottle of my big tank.
There is no heater because I the room won't come below 18 degree celcius and the tank is usual a few degree warmer thanks to the lighting.
Flora & fauna:
25 x Tanichthys micagemmae
4 x Sewellia lineolata
10 x Paracaridina sp. Princess bee (lost a few)
Rotala sp. 'vietnam'
All fish and plants are from Vietnam but the Blyxa japonica didn't do very well. I will try again later because I've enough in my big tank.
As you can see in the pictures I had some trouble with snails (there number decreases a lot) and also cyano bacter, staghorn algae and some other algae (morning sun on the tank). The algae on the stones is intended as food for the sewellia's.
The tank isn't finished jet but getting better more bushy and healthier every week so I was even thinking about entering the iaplc contest. (Although it will be hard to get the UG good with the Sewellia's in the tank) Was wondering whether you think I need to clean the stones before a final picture or not. And also all comments regarding layout are welcome!
September 28th, 2013
It has been awhile since I have visted the site and thought I would share my new adventure. Back in January of this year, I decided to scrap my 90G corner bowfront and get the tank I have always wanted...a 125 gallon, 72"L x 18"W x 23"H. I had alot of work ahead of me because I wanted to build it into the wall in my basement and have the back of it accessible to my fish room. If you want to view the complete build Click HERE to go to my journal on TPT. Here are some pics of the build...
Cleaned out ready for new floor paint
The tear down
The start of remodel
My little girl checking my work
View from fish room
Drywalled and ready for paint
Ready for tank
Starting to fill
Filter wall in fish room
Almost done..just have to build the front cover
Thanks for looking!
August 20th, 2013
This is my first journal and I thought I would try and keep it simple so I am doing it on my 10 gallon low tech planted tank that I breed Apisto's in and experiment with various plants from my emersed plant bank.
It is a pretty basic 10 gallon set-up with 2X 10 watt 6500K screw-in CFL's (PAR=25), generic 50 watt heater, Aquaclear 20 HOB filter (with 2X sponges only), black plastic background, and Safe-T-Sorb #7941 substrate; no CO2.
8/4/13 Day 1
Washed the Safe-T-Sorb #7941 in a 5 gallon bucket doing about 1/2 of the total amount used per batch. Thoroughly churned and rinsed the substrate 4 or 5 times per batch and it still came out looking like chocolate milk.
Day 1 pic
8/7/13 Day 3
Added a piece of Malaysian driftwood hardscape that has a hollow cave like area that my Apisto's seem to like spawning in. Also added some plants including Limnophila aromatica 'Wavy', Pogostemon helferi (Downoi), Pogostemon erectus, Helanthium tenellum (Echinodorus tenellus/Micro Chain Sword), Barclaya longifolia, Cuphea anagalloidea, Rotala sp 'Bengladesh', and Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Bronze'. The Rotala sp 'Bengladesh' came from one of my isolation containers; the Pogostemon helferi and Cupia anagalloidea came from my emersed plant bank; the rest were grown submersed and came from one of my other established tanks. Yes, several of the species listed above would typically be found in a 'high tech' tank with much more light and CO2 but I wanted to see what I could do with 'low tech'.
Day 3 pic
8/9/13 Day 5
The water is starting to show signs of clearing. I added four small Corydoras habrosus; one Otocinclus affinis; and one Siamese algae eater, (Crossocheilus oblongus or syn. Crossocheilus siamensis). Also started dosing fertilizers today. I dose EI for 6 gallons on alternate days with Seachem Comprehensive. I dose Excel strength glutaraldehyde all days.
Day 5 pic
8/12/13 Day 8
The tank is staring to show definite signs of clearing. I did a 3 gallon water change today; rinsed the filter sponges in tank water, dosed dry ferts, dosed 1X Initial Dose Excel and added a little Equilibrium, MgSO4 (Epsom Salt), CaCl (calcium chloride/Dry-Z-Air), and NaHCO3 (baking soda) to bring up my dGH and dKH.
Here are some Day 8 pics
July 24th, 2013
This is my 10 gallon has a standard 48" t12 over it, various clippings from my submerged tanks. my micro sword Tupperware. Almost a full carpeted mass
May 28th, 2013
Hi there , here is all mine planted tanks and shrimps tanks ...
180 liter with estimate index and 294 watt of light.. its uncut...
and mine shrims tanks
80 liter crs and sakura rcs
and 40 liters yellow snowball and blue pearl ..
April 16th, 2013
I decided to setup another larger tank in order to satisfy my collectoritis.
Tank - 48" x 13" x 18" AGA 55gallon tank
Pressurized CO2 with glass diffuser
27 L new Amazonia Aquasoil
CFS 500 canister from AquaTraders
Finnex Ray 2 48" LEDhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008K3...sr=8-1&pi=SL75
I've been doing a water change every other day at this point. Ill get on with the photos.
March 23rd, 2013
A lot of the ditches in the Jackson, Mississippi area have lost the variety of aquarium plants they used to have because they have been taken over by either a Polygonum species or Alternanthera philoxeroides Alligator weed. We have had several years with below normal rainfall which may have contributed to the loss of other species, or the species that used to be there (Ludwigia, Micranthemum etc.) are pioneer species that get replaced in a process of succession. So, I was glad to run across a new ditch that was created about a year and a half ago that has already acquired an interesting variety of plants. It was created when a bicycle path was put in last fall and the path blocked water flow from a woods creating standing water about 6 inches deep along the path. Ludwigia palustris showed up early this spring and grew with astonishing rapidity. At first I thought that Ludwigia was the only plant, but closer examination showed a number of other species. had also made it there in only one season. I found Ludwigia glandulosa, Bacopa routundifolia, Lindernia dubia, an Ammannia species, Ditch stonecrop (Penthorum sedoides), a possible Mimulus species and some Polygonium. Photos, below show all but the Polygonum.
This photo shows the extensive growth of Ludwigia palustris. There is a Ludwigia glandulosa plant in the lower right corner that I did not recognize when I took the picture.
February 15th, 2013
Background: A few years back (2003?) I dove headfirst into planted tanks and over the years put together a few scapes. Loved it, but but interupted too many times with sequential job moves, after graduation.
A few months ago, the wife more or less said "I want you to start up a planted tank. I miss them"...who am I to say no?!
The idea : Longevity. Current trends in competition are for the moment of the photo. Most tanks aren't designed for the time before or after the photo (this could be a huge rant/debate thread, so maybe I'll bring that up elsewhere). I'm after a tank for my house and for me, not for a photo. This means planting a tank that will last, and not require constant pruning/replanting to keep it looking like a jungle. So, I'm staying away from very high light. Staying away from stems. Staying away from super fast growers. I'm also employing MTS for substrate. First time using it, and sounds like a good idea for the eventual heavy root feeding crypts.
hardware: I'm re-purposing my old Elos 70 for this tank. The elos sump isn't good for FW, so that is being replaced with a Proflex Model 1. Still working out CO2, but it will be there. Return will probably use the Eheim 1250 instead of 1260 (too much flow?). ATO will be with the original elos osmocontroller and an external tank of water (US Plastics). For lighting, I have available, a pair of Kessil Amazon Sun, but I'm going to see how a single will do. This will be med to med-low on light levels. There will be some extra shadowing with a single point source, but I'm ok with that. I had a pair of 14K kessils over the same tank before when it was a reef.
hardscape materials: Rock, sand and gravel were all collected locally. It took a good amount of rinsing to get rid of most of the organics/silt. I was first thinking of using more contrasting sand-rock, but this is truer to reality since the sand/gravel was originally the rock before weathering/time took hold. The wood is 3 pieces of manzanita, glued to a base rock with IC-Gel.
plants: I don't have any yet :P I'm currently sourcing some and should have it sorted this week. On the list are things like...
Foreground: marselia minuta, parva, petite nana,??
For-mid: wendtii green gecko, petchii, willisii (nervelii?), lucens, ??
Mid: mid-back: affinis, nurii, ??
Back: retro spiralis, spiralis, crispatula, ??
All of this is dependent on what I can come across and what I get inspired by.
(I live in NM, and if I only added a few sparse plants, and a few tumble weeds, then we have ourself a local NA style tank :P)
(1) clean out most of the old reef junk (note, parts of overlow are removed. There won't be a big hole for fish to get sucked into!). Single Kessil mounted. Wire needs routing and painting for SAF. (Note to others making their own kessil mount... the Kessil Goosneck has M10x1 threading). I could have attached the kessel+gooseneck directly to the tank, but I wanted more height. The back alcove (I forget what it is actually called) will probably have other plants that don't need a lot of attention.
(2) Sand/gravel perimeter, with dolomite/murate of potash base in center
(3) Add MTS and cover with sand/gravel. The MTS was higher in organics than I like and didn't hold the clay (the red in the liquid on top) super well. We'll see how it goes. I personally think the soil is only half way through the mineralization process. Probably just means more water changes at first, but not as bad as if I went the classic Walstad topsoil method.
(4) Here is the joining of the wood on a rock base (which sits on the rock shown in the earlier photos). The rock is to also keep things from floating up.
(5) Dump in base sand/gravel to fully cover MTS
(6) figure out what rocks I want to use (I collected way more than I needed. Better to have options. This is not a rockscape, so I wanted to use rocks that add to the overall feel and not overly dominate.
(7) rocks/rubble added.
(8 ) this is it for now. I'll post more when I have plants