Green Dust Algae ODYSSEY - Algae

pacolopezmujica · 04-24-2006, 06:24 PM

Well my friends, it's a:
90 gal tank.
160 watts - 10 hours
UV Filter "BIG twister"
PO 0.5 mg/lt
RO water
NO3 0.1ppm
CO2 injected 2 bubbles/sec.
Substrate was ECO complete
Regularly used Diatom powder in my Magnum (this helps but not enough)
And the green dust algae still there no matter water changes.
Actually I could have started a Green DYE business.

Solution
Drained the whole thing and washed with CLOROX
Yes we cleaned even the smallest item and then start again.
We don't have GDA anymore...

Now I think I have Cyano Bacteria or BGA.
It looks similar to my GDA but this one SMELL and It's not like the GREEN DYE or dusty.
So you see, I think I'm going back at my 56 years to the University and search for a Biology degree and see if I can find a solution. Or turn into HULK and enjoy it.

NE · 04-24-2006, 11:02 PM

It absolutely sounds like Cyano / BGA.

Your problem is most likely the low nutrition levels, BGA is very active when the NO3 level gets to lo.

PO4 is low but not that bad.
NO3 is way to low, a good starting point should be between 5 and 10, and this is the main problem.
Most certainly you are also low on traces.

There is something called Redfield ratio (N/P) and thats the ratio between N and P,this should be around 10.

Bert H · 04-25-2006, 04:51 AM

Hey Paco,

A few questions regarding your tank and some comments. It sounds like your tank is out of balance. First, you mention RO water, is that all you're using? Are you adding something to get your hardness levels up, because RO water is pure water with nothing in it. Using CO2, you really need to have a kh of 3 or higher. Plants also need Ca, and Mg, again, which RO water has not. What's your gh?

What are your CO2 levels? Just knowing your bubble rate tells you nothing about your CO2 content of your water.

The cyano (blue-green algae) is brought on by low nitrates, which, as has NE said, you have. You need nitrate levels in the 10-20ppm range. Your phosphate levels need to be in the 2-4ppm range. The Redfield Ratio is something a few folks believe works, personally I don't. You need to have all plant nutrients present in a little excess, ratios are not that important.

Check out the following references to help you out.
http://www.aquatic-plants.org/articl...ges/index.html
http://www.barrreport.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1
http://www.rexgrigg.com/

yildirim · 04-25-2006, 05:59 AM

I totaly agree with Bert. You should increase the quantities of nutrients and make it gradualy, not all at once. Instead of testing NO3, PO4 parameters, you should first know the hardness trio and try to maintain them at suggested values.

YILDIRIM

banderbe · 04-25-2006, 06:14 AM

From what I read, green dust is the only algae that most folks who have defeated the other algaes still deal with.

I am in that boat. By week's end the dust is starting to be noticable on the glass, but it's okay. I wipe it off, do a water change, and it's gone for 5 to 6 days.

I don't suffer any other algae, and dosing Flourish Excel doesn't seem to have any impact on green dust algae.

I figure it's something I have to live with, especially since nobody seems to have a prescription for how to get rid of it.

I can't imagine washing out a tank with bleach would help in the long term, given that the bacteria for green dust are in the air we are breathing right now.

plantbrain · 04-25-2006, 08:07 AM

AaronT · 04-25-2006, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by banderbe

From what I read, green dust is the only algae that most folks who have defeated the other algaes still deal with.

I am in that boat. By week's end the dust is starting to be noticable on the glass, but it's okay. I wipe it off, do a water change, and it's gone for 5 to 6 days.

I don't suffer any other algae, and dosing Flourish Excel doesn't seem to have any impact on green dust algae.

I figure it's something I have to live with, especially since nobody seems to have a prescription for how to get rid of it.

I can't imagine washing out a tank with bleach would help in the long term, given that the bacteria for green dust are in the air we are breathing right now.

This can be fixed by slightly increasing your PO4 dosing. While the ideal ratio of Nitrogen to Phosphorus in a planted tank is about 10:1, your dosing should not be 10:1. Dry dosing a ratio of 3:1 to achieve the desired levels of each nutrient.

Also, Olive Nerite snails will do a tremendous job of cleaning GDA off of the glass.

pacolopezmujica · 04-25-2006, 10:27 AM

Paco here,
Thanks for your advise, very grateful.
I have to clear something, the original water in this tank 4 weeks ago, was tap water, since then I have done one 1/4 water change with RO water.
Water parameters are the following
PH 7.4
NO3 = 0
PO4 = 0
Thanks again

banderbe · 04-25-2006, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plantbrain

I have a 100% success rate with controlling it in a total of 8 tanks that where inoculated.
Takes about 2-3 weeks.

Regards,
Tom Barr

By doing what?

banderbe · 04-25-2006, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AaronT

This can be fixed by slightly increasing your PO4 dosing. While the ideal ratio of Nitrogen to Phosphorus in a planted tank is about 10:1, your dosing should not be 10:1. Dry dosing a ratio of 3:1 to achieve the desired levels of each nutrient.

Also, Olive Nerite snails will do a tremendous job of cleaning GDA off of the glass.

I dose a solution I made that is 7:1 N to P.

I have seen Tom Barr mention this ratio more than once. I will consider raising PO4 if things don't improve. Either way it's a small nuisance, nothing like hair algae which gives me nightmares.