tsound

ok, closer, but still not quite there...

so you start with the kno3 protocol to figure out how much N the tank needs, you know when you get GSA.
then you say once you have GSA you do the PO4 protocol to find out how much P is needed. but during the PO4 protocol you stop dosing N, right? then what algae are you looking for as an indicator for PO4?

what about micros (Fe)? when do you start those?

Christian_rubilar

You can find the answer to your question at page 4th of this thread, look for the traslation of the GSA / PO4 protocol .

The MCI born as a control algae method. So, as soon as you solve your algae issues you start adding micros againg. Anyway, I propose to add a little bit of them as I explain before.

I suggest you take a look at the complete version of the MCI in Spanish, the MCI tries to be self explaining.

Regards

tsound

ok, got it, you dose only P until GSA disappears. that gives you your weekly amount.

so in a way GSA is a good thing , in that it is the last step in the chain.

i'm thinking back to the last time i had GSA and it is true, i had no other algae at that point in time.
can't say that i haven't since...

now do you have to re-do the protocols every so often as the tank matures (more plants=higher uptake rates)?
i hope you will translate the whole thing by yourself. the google translator looses me a lot.


thanks

Christian_rubilar

Almost, you should clean the glass every day until is doen't show up anymore. That's gives you the amount of Po4 your plants really need.

This is very important because, as I explained before, if you add Po4 in excess when you add Fe they became iron phosphate and both became useless.


Once you know the real consumption of Kno3/Po4, you don't need to do the protocols again. If there is a change in the consumption, GSA will show you. The idea about fertilizing in this way is that you are always in the same place (about the water chemistry). I use the analogy of the blind man, if he stays close to the wall, he always knows where he is.


I know that google translator sucks. I am realizing that I should re write some chapters because the debate here will be different than en Dr. Pez. There were a consensus about low Po4 and Fe and a debate about high light and Co2 (Wastald had a huge influence in the Spanish specking forums). Consensus that here doesn't exist, so I will explain it better in the English version.

I found somebody who will translate it for me because I have no time at all,

Regards

tsound

got it!

i always thought that only happens at super high concentrations (like when pre-mixing ferts for liquid dosing)?



won't there most certainly be a change in consumption, when plants get bigger?please explain why, i don't understand why specifically GSA would show up first?
what about if N bottoms out before P (due to increased plant consumption)? then you would get BGA or something else first?
anyhow, then if the GSA shows up, what do you do? do the po4 protocol again? or just up your P dosing a bit at a time?



can't wait to read the whole thing!

would you say that your method gives you maximum growth rate of plants?

Christian_rubilar

Sure, and when you cut them. There are a dynamic balance, with this protocols you will know very well the way that your tanks works soon. So after that you can handle this variation easily.

N03 can not be consumed without P and K. The way I propose to fertilizing you will not be out of No3 first. Po4 will be out first always. Even the relationship between them is not directly proportional there is a relationship, different in each tank, depending of the plants combination.

Different imbalances produces different algae. If you run out of No3 you will probably have cianobacteria. This usually happened when you have glosso.

You can have different kind of BGA depending of an imbalance related to Fe, Ca, Po4, lack of Co2, etc. You can find this diferent imbalances relationship at the MCI. We had identified the most common algae there.

You do the Po4 protocol only once, after that youy tune up your dosing a little up.

I used to cultivate aquarium plants as a way of living. I did it under water. For me was very important to have high grow rates and no algae bloom. I had a small place, so efficiency was a priority for me.
I think that to talk about high growth rates is a debate over, this argument is very important only if you are comparing the Wastald's method with any other else.
I propose a method with a long terms balance, and high growth rates.

Regards

tsound

i am understanding more and more, thanks!
i really hope you will have the whole thing translated soon. i would like to try it, but would need to read and understand the whole, comprehensive thing first.
maybe translate and post here the part about the different algae-indicators and related protocols first?
what's the protocol with thread-algae (long, single strands)?

in one prior post you mentioned a 12h tropical day, do you suggest a 12h photoperiod with your system?

tsound

michael (EDIT: i mean Christian, of course, sorry), are you still around?

Newt

He's away on vacation for a week or two.

Nevermore

Am I correct in my understanding that what is being presented here is only applicable if my light is 3 watts/gallon or more? Is there any part of this that can be useful for combatting GDA in a 2 watt/gallon T5HO tank?

Thanks!