Christian_rubilar

The main idea is that when you reach the GSA other algae die or stop bloom. If you see, there are several pictures with the most common algae, there are specific protocols to deal with them with the "generic Kno3 protocol" we are talking about.

In this thread I debate with Barr about it:
http://www.drpez.net/panel/showthrea...6&page=2&pp=25
When I mention potassium I don't mean potassium sulphate. You know, salts always have a partner: sulfate, chloridre, etc. I think that the best is to add two good ones instead of sulfate. Some friend from Chile use potasa 15-0-15 and works great!!
It's not a matter of high dosis, I believe that using the Kno3 protocol you can reach the real consumption of your aquarium and avoid algae bloom and have exccelente plant growth rate.


This is a missunderstanding. The main idea behing the MDC is that rules like 10.1.15 doens't work. So I propose to use the generic protocol of Kno3 to induce gsa (algae control) and like a way to find the real consumption of your aquarium (fertilizing). You can read a lot about it in the debate with Barr. I suggest this very low doze like a start point (I really believe about to make everything simple for begginers). The idea is that all aquariums have different consumptions and differents balances. For example, if you have a carpet of marsilea crenata you will need to add a lot of Po4 in order to avoid gsa. If your carpet is a glosso one, then your aquarium will need a lot of Kno3 But, when you know exactly the consumption, then, plant are properly fertilized and if you test your water the No3 should be under 5 ppm.

I think that the approach about light should be understandable even for begginers. Usually it became too complex. The watt/liter rule is simple to understand and there is a convention about to use the raw litters or gallons.
My idea behind this is to use the plants as the aquarium filter, but I need at least 4 watts/gallon to have the plants filtering the aquarium properly. Esencially I have in mind plants like glosso, marsilea crenata, etc, I mean, the plants you are going to use to make a carpet.
Diana Wastald had a huge influence some years ago at spanish speaking forums and we had to work a lot to convice people to use some more light.

Somethin secundary, not important, that has a relationship with the principal thing but not important. I talk about when you have red algae and people says thay the cause is too long light period or that the filter is too strong, etc.

Are the plants that makes a carpet, like glosso, HC, eleocharis, etc.

Yes

Means salt but I use to describe any fertilizer without chelate. There I criticize a group of argentina who prepared at home micros fertilazers without chelate but I don't mention them because is unpolite.

mmmmm, should be GSA, green spot algae.

It is a typing mistake, is "siguientes" and means "followings"

Please notice that the article continues below after Dorje comments. The MDC began as a debate and grew a lot from the feedback but we kept it as a thread, for this reason you will finde that there are some people answers in between.
The MDC finishes with this footnote:
"7. Sorín, Raúl, Tomo I, Instalación y Mantenimiento de acuarios, 1986, ed. Albatros, Bs. As. Argentina, p. 125 y ss."

You can have some more explaining info about the MDC in this interview:
http://acuariorosa.blogspot.com/2009...n-rubilar.html

I apologize if I didn't explain my self properly.
Regards

Newt

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to all of my questions.

I will continue increasing my KNO3 until only GSA is present (dont have much of this at all).
My GDA is slowly disappearing since removing my new TEK 4x54w lighting (for sale btw) and bumping up my CO2 a tad and allowing my PO4 to drop below 1ppm. I should not add any PO4, correct? or should I keep it around 0.5ppm?

So you are saying the amount of potassium in the KNO3 should be adequate for the tank?

I still stay with my idea that potassium which is not really consumed by the plants, certainly not like phosphate and nitrate, build up in the water column to toxic levels for algae. I believe the potassium is used by the plants more as an essential role in water status within the plant and turgor pressure of its cells. Also K is involved in the accumulation and translocation of newly formed carbohydrates.

Newt

Well, I increased my KNO3 dosing and now have 15 to 20ppm. I also have brazilian pennywort growing on the surface. Awhile ago I removed my TEK 4x54w HO fixture which really made the GDA grow. I am keeping the PO4 to 0.5ppm.

I am happy to report that the algae is already disappearing, slowly but steadily.

Bert H

I have moved this discussion here on the suggestion of a board member. Please continue discussion as needed here. Thanks.

Newt

Thanks, Bert H

Christian_rubilar

Thanks!

Christian_rubilar

When you use the Kno3 generic protocol you should not add anything else (control algae approach).
About Po4, I think that you should add what your plants needs (Fertilizing approach).
I think that there is a mistake about keeping Po4 and other macros in rigid values like 1 ppm Po4, 10 ppm No3, etc.
There is a general misunderstanding about fertilizing. If you test and you can read 1 ppm of Po4, there is something wrong, probably you are adding too much Po4. I think that the best is to keep tha tank close to GSA.
I had an aquarium with only marsilea crenata. In that tank I used to add about 4 ppm of Po4 a week and I always was very close to GSA. This was because the marsilea crenata uptaked all the Po4 I added.

This is a general rule because some plants needs more K like microsorums.

mmmm, yes and no. I think that the problem with potasium is that plants need just a little. If you add too much then plants uptake it. This is what farmers call "luxury consumption". When this happens you run out of No3 and then there are proper conditions for algae. I don't like to use the word toxic related to algae because algae only blooms when there are proper condition.

Potassium is very important, no doubt. If to take a look to the "bible", Sorin explains:

"In the body of plants, potassium is essential for the formation of starch and cellulose. As for the conversion of these substances into glucose. His speech was a catalyst, ie, it performed just by their presence and amounts pequenias not interveninng in the chemical reaction. Ie, directs the reaction but is not involved in it. Potassium is one of many metal catalysts, as opposed to organic catalysts such as enzymes and yeasts that are organic catalysts (alive)"

You can download the Sorin's book from this link:
http://rapidshare.com/files/30646921/Sorin_1_1_.pdf

The book was sold out over 20 years ago and it will never be printed againg (last edition was in 1986), so the copyrights are abandoned.

The best of that book is the Macro/ micros chapter, and lighting. Others chapters are simply obsolets.

Regards

Newt

Thanks again for your help.
It does appear to be working.
The T5HO 4 x 54w was too much along with the GroLux Std and WS. I've gone back to an Aquarelle, ADV850 and AGA 8000K. I've got a DYI in mind for a 4 X T8 fixture. I already have the miro4 reflector and the ballast.
As for now KNO3 and a daily tad (3 ml) of PO4 (liquid mix per Seachem strength) as my tank consumes it quickly and I dont want to run out.

Newt

I downloaded Sorin's book but itsin Spanish and is a pdf.
Is there a way to use the google translator?

ShortFin

Okay...let me try to understand this concept in simpler term.

1) Dose only KNO3 until you only get GDA. This will be the amount of KNO3 for weekly dosing.
2) To get rid of GDA, manually remove it.

Do you go back to dosing KH2P04 and CSM+B after this? I'm using the EI method.

So after a major trimming, you'll have to cut back on KNO3 to find the optimum again or else you'll get GDA. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you'll have to constantly monitor your levels.