galettojm

Hello,

As I’ve already posted, the willow method worked twice for me.

With my argentinean aquarium club (CROA) we are planning to do an experiment trying different types of substrates in 6 exactly identical tanks (using only inert sand, sand mixed with lateritic soil, sand mixed with black organic soil, etc.). One of the most important things we want to know is how the substrate affects the generation of GW.

After this experiment, that should last at least a couple of months, we want to use these tanks to try different types of lightning.

I am trying to convince the others to test also the willow method.

Bye,

Juan

fastang80

Nice thread. Very informative.

ShuLL

Hi fellas, been reading this thread with the utmost interest as i've been combating GW for the past 2-3 mths(and getting quite pissed in the process..lol)..

anyway, here's the background of my planted tank:

I'm running a 3x2x1.5ft tank, about 84Lit or 22Gal(US) with an overhead 55W florescent lighting. Previously when i'm using an overhead filter + DIY CO2, i've had no GW problems. But as with DIY CO2, plants growth are slow due to the inefficiency when dissolving the CO2.

Then, i made a switch to a canister filter with proper pressurized CO2+reactor running at 1bps, the CO2 dissolving rate increase tremendously, but within 1 day, the water turned to a cloudy white. At first, i attribute this to the new bacteria cycle due to the new filter system. But as the weeks goes by, the GW got worse, even as i change 50% water weekly.

The ferts i use are Flourish Pottasium, about 3-4ml every 3 days, 1 ppm of DIY KH2PO4 and 5 drops of LUSHGro-MICROSLiquid every water change.

This is the picture of my tank with the GW



It got so bad that not enough light are getting to my plants and my plants are dying. So i did 50% water change daily for the past 5 days and got to this. Hopefully, the plants will be getting enough lights to start growing and build up mass.



Also, i reduced my light from 6 hrs(12-6pm) to 4 hrs(2-6pm). Hopefully, to combat the algae growth.

This is a picture of my filter setup, if it helps.



I am suspecting that the problem might be the natural light the tank got as it is placed right beside the window.



Also, i can't get willow wood here since i stay in the tropics(3 deg north of equator). The only way is to import from temperate regions, which i forsee, will cost a bomb. But i do have lots of mangrove here. But i would like to use that as last resort.

I will update as the days goes by. And hopefully, can get some advise and tips from here.

fshfanatic

What I do is:
1: Assemble the HOT with the micron filter and place it on the tank and turn it on.
2: Run it until all the air is purged.
3: I then have a plastic "Mustard Bottle type" thingy I bought at the dollar store and fill it 1/4 full of DE and then top off with water and shake.
4: Hold bottle in tank and squeeze into the intake of the HOT.

Year Of The Dragon

very interesting read.

one thing to note that i have not read in this entire thread is the effect on PH for those that are using this method with a tank that has fish as well.

introducing acid (from the willow) will likely change the PH. i dont know if it is a significant amount, but it is still a change regardless and maybe something to think about for those of us who have fish that are sensitive to PH shifts.

galettojm

Hi !

I tried the method several times and I did´t appreciate a dramatic change of PH. But my tank has very acid water (between 5 and 6).

Bye !

Juan

galettojm

If willow is not accessible you could tried with a DIY UV filter. This is my experience:

http://www.croa.com.ar/ipb2/index.php?showtopic=9987

Bye !

Juan

Alex123

Ok this is drastic I tried black out for 3 days for my 20 and 10 gallon aquarium and the green water didn't change much. I know I read the part about doing it for 5 days maybe next time. However I did notice my anacharis grew 5-7 inches amazing! Anyhow, since my aquarium is small I decided to change pretty much all the water accept an inch and half at the bottom so I don't have to move the community fishes. It didn't take too long. No one suggested changing 90+% of the water. Anyhow, we'll see if this fixes the issue or not. From what I have read, the nutrients that induced the green water have been used up by the algae but the green water will remain unless killed or removed. Well this seemed like a straight forward way of doing that by removing most of the water. I don't know why this is not suggested as an option. I read it cause undue stress to the fish. I highly doubt that since it's the same water they are used to but cleaner. Anyhow, I hope the water will remain clear. I'll post back later.

Alex123

Ok just want to report that the water is under control after removing most of the water. The remaining green water I didn't remove caused the water to be a little bit hazy. But for the last 5 days it looks to be not getting worse. I have decided not to let it have direct sunlight currently, my tank is planted. If the water becomes crystal clear, I will open the blinds and let direct sunlight in. Actually my 10 gallon is almost crystal clear and my 20 is slightly hazy. It seems to be like than when I first set it up too as I can recall. It never was crystal clear like my 10 gallon.

Alex123

Another update. The water remains slightly hazy not clearing up. I can see from one end to the other but the haziness is just flat out annoying. I don't have any filter except a water pump to circulate the water. I have finally solved my green water problem though and this should be called the simple cheap method and don't have to wait for this dang 5 day blackout or expensive uv filter. I ran it for 5 hours and the water looks like doing a 80-90% water change on a green water tank. It's not crystal clear though. I'll see after 24 hours.