SUBORPHAN

sorry to drag an old thread up but i need some help.

i am planning to build a stand in ADA style for my rimless tank. however i need to know the dimensions of the different panels of wood. if anyone has an ADA stand would it be possible to measure (and post) the different panels of the stand (the side, top and bottom panels, doors etc)? i hope i am not asking too much and would really be grateful it if you could help.

what also surprises me is the fact that you dont see a gap or a line where for example the top panel is screwed on the side ones. how is that possible?

hoppycalif

Dennis, I agree that the materials are not that important, unless you hope to duplicate the stand as a DIY project. It is obvious to me that ADA produces a quality product, whether made of glass, plastic, wood, or some combination. If I were trying to duplicate the look of their stand I would be concerned with what materials let me do that best, and not at all with what materials they used.

ianiwane

With that being said, Jason (thatguy), Marc, and I are building some stands. We are using MDF. Attached is a picture of my stand. It is for a 120cm ada tank. Not quite complete, I still need to add one piece of wood.

Attached Thumbnails

 

jsenske

That looks great so far.

ianiwane

Thanks Jeff, BTW what lily pipes should I use for a 120 cm ada tank w/ a 2217 filter. I know I need 13mm output and a 17mm input. Also when do you expect your stock to come in?

jsenske

For a 2217 on a 120cm you need:

Inflow: V-7 17mm
Outflow: P-6 13mm

I should have Lily Pipes back in about 2 weeks.

dennis

Mine to, although it was for a 90cm and I made my doors full height....



Stained black and sprayed with black tinted lacquer. Inside sprayed with clear lacquer. The holes you see in the bottom are for leveler feet, 7 total(threaded insert tee in from the bottom and round head carraige bolts with slots for a screwdriver in the end). The center divider you see is about 3" wide and there is one in the front and one in the back. All parts are 1" Ultra-lite MDF edged with 1/16" maple veneer. 3/4" would be fine but I already had this on hand and I like the thicker look. The top sits on the sides and has biscuits for joinery. The bottom is actually between the sides, again with biscuits for joinery and strength. This is not the strongest structurally (the sides should rest on the bottem so the joinery is not as stressed from the weight); however, they do rest on the bottom "toe-kick" frame which is a frame of 3/4" MDF laying flat, glued/biscuited at the corners and glued to the bottom of the cabinet. Since the sides sit on the kick the structural/weight issue is mute. The toe is set back 1/2" at the sides and flush at the front but the doors create the reveal in the front. The top overhangs the cabinet by 7/8" since I used 3/4" MDF for the doors and there is a 1/8" gap from the hinges. The cabinet was build and glued up and then I routed the back with a rabbiting bit and a large base on the router. I sized the back, which is 1/2" MDF, to be a tight fit then glued it in, making sure the front of the cabinet was square until the glue dried.

Overall it took me about 3 hours to make the cabinet and 3-4 to finish it
but I do this for a living and had access to awesome, large tools where I worked.

ianiwane

do you have a picture with the doors hung?

dennis

You'll find more pics on the first page of my journal here.

hoppycalif

Dennis, way back in your journal, someone asked to see more of your light fixture. I, too, am very interested in seeing more of it. I haven't seen that layout used before - with the cords and hoses going out the end of the hood instead of the back, with the hood shaped like yours. Pretty please???