walterk

Does anyone have a contact phone number for them? The one I found on the web appears to be a fax line -- (214) 275-3938.

Tex Gal

PM Foreverknight (Jason). He has been working with the company to see about our November meeting and the discount they will give our members.

walterk

Thanks! PM sent.

walterk

My LFS is getting prices from three different companies for the tank.

Today, I was able to obtain a PAR meter to compare my current lighting options. When I get the tank, I will do this again. I wonder how the measurements will differ when there is water involved?

There are three sections to the aquarium. In each I have a piece of driftwood. I've increasing the number of lamps from 8 to 10. I've clustered groups of lamps over each piece of wood.

One of my goals is to imitate nature. As such, I've wondered if some shade would add something -- like a cloud or tree branch would provide in a natural environment -- instead of even lighting throughout?

I want to attempt to place a focal point using "negative space" (shade) between the 2nd and 3rd pieces. Not sure just how this will look when everything is put together, or if it will even work, but I'm intrigued by the idea.



Today, I placed the PAR meter sensor at the far right side under 3 lamps. It was 18" below one of the lamps. It was centered under the middle lamp and not moved when bulbs were exchanged.



I used 3 different sets of bulbs for this test: 1) CREE LEDs, 9 watt (3X3), 6500K, 60 degree angle, DIM option; Spiral CFLs, 23 watt, 6500K; 3) Spiral CFLs, 14 watt, 5000K



When LED's were tested, I took the "bells" off of the lamps. They are not supposed to be enclosed.



When the CFL's were tested, I put them back on.



Here are the results. I'll do this again when I get the tank and have water in it. I'll post the results on the PAR reading sticky thread.

Spiral CFL's, 23 watt (with bell):
1 bulb 29
2 bulbs 54
3 bulbs 76

Spiral CFL's, 14 watt (with bell):
1 bulb 20
2 bulbs 35
3 bulbs 46

CREE LED's, 9 watt, 60 degree, DIM option:
1 bulb 48
2 bulbs 57
3 bulbs 65

niko

I think you should use the LED. Recently I experimented with a single 1100 lumen LED light from Home Depot. I was looking for the shimmer underwater effect. With one bulb the shimmer was nothing to write home about, but it did penetrate 2 ft. of water very, very well and the plants did cast a definite shadow on the bottom. Using more bulbs will work better.

I don't think you should be concerned with the light spectrum of the LED. It will be bad for sure. But if you chose your plants right (mosses for example) you don't even need any light.

One thing you must avoid is a center brace on your new tank. It really messes up the look of the light under water if you use directional sources like LED or a halide.

walterk

I'm going to split the bulbs to begin with. I want to see the results between the 23 watt spiral CFL's and the LED's. So, initially, 1/2 of the tank will be for each.

Not enough red. Plenty of blue. I hope you are right.

I don't think I really have a choice on this. The thickness of the acrylic needed for a rimless will likely be cost prohibitive for me. The brace will be acrylic, so it won't be like the black plastic piece(s) that most glass tanks have. I can also adjust the lamps.

I'm wondering if I should have some sort of acrylic lids to partially close the top and prevent evaporation? The acrylic would block some light, but it would not be as bad as regular glass.

Niko, what is your opinion about filtration in such a long tank. Would you still go with a U-shaped flow?

fishyjoe24

the problem with leds is no 10,000k which is what the saltwater people need. the plant people will love them because they have 6,500k... also heard leds still have the color balance problem to work out.

walterk

The Kelvin temperature thing is a lot more complicated that I care to attempt to elaborate on. Two bulbs can be labeled as "6,500K" but be very different in the exact specs. So my 6,500K LEDs are not at all equal to the 6,500K CFLs. The CFLs are likely to grow plants better, I would think.

The LEDs I have are strong in the blue and very weak in red. It is my understanding that as LED bulbs age that they will shift even more to the blue.

Red light is responsible for plant maturation, causing plants to grow tall. Blue light controls the growth of stems and leaves, causing plants to grow wide with fat stems and dark leaves. A combination of red and blue light produces the fullest, most robust plants.

Read more: Do Plants Grow Faster Under Certain Colors of Light? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/facts_7710978_do...#ixzz1rPcj8jtf


I know we are just talking about mosses here, but there is the possibility that I will branch out to use other plants in time.

walterk

Here's an interesting read that gives me hope though:

http://blog.extraplant.com/led_lighting.html

walterk

Planet Aquarium does not make acrylic aquariums. Makes sense since they are former Oceanic folks. My LFS has a quote from a company he deals with in George and he's also checking with A.G.E., out of Dallas.