Jimbo205

Found the checkvalve in the Local Fish Store. $2.00
From the otherwise very good directions, I thought I had to create that also. This should be easy now!

harbisgirl

Hello,

I'm new, forgive me if this is a ridiculous question

I have a sand substrate, would it work to stick the tube under the sand to diffuse the bubbles?

John N.

Interesting idea, but probably no, since a large bubble will still come out of the sand and rush to the surface. The key for getting CO2 in your tank's water is to have the CO2 gas bubble in maximum contact with the water so that it can dissolve. For example, the hagen ladder does this very well. The bubble travels up the ladder getting smaller as it goes up. Similar to this type of glass diffuser that New Guy has. See the cool video in post #10 of

Other options is to have the impeller of your filter or powerhead chop up the bubbles. So feeding the line directing into the intake of your filter wlll maximize the surface area of the tiny bubbles that get chopped up, and provide better chance of dissolution.

-John N.

sean_chambers

Strange I was expecting at least one person to mention using High Tolerance Champagne or Wine yeast as it can tolerate almost 3 times the Alchohol % of bread and beer yeast, aslo using sucrose instead of sugar, and adding the sugar in incremants per week and not a huge dose up front allows the brew to ferment at a more consistant rate, also have two of these bottles running so that as one finished the next one has finished its really busy inital phase and has settled down so the tank has a nice consistant suppy of CO2

dgaddis1

I have a question about bottle size...from what I've read using a 2L bottle vs. a nutrafin canister will last longer due to the decreased alcohol concentration levels. My question is about the peformance of the 2L vs. the Nutrafin canister. Basically, which will produce the greatest amout of CO2 a day? My current mix in the Nutrafin canister is lasting right at two weeks, so if the 2L will produce CO2 at the same rate, and last longer, I'd like to switch. However, since I'm running the system on a 29G I want to have the highest possible rate of CO2 production, even if that means starting a new batch every two weeks vs. every 3 or 4. Thanks for the advice!

John N.

It's really all dependent on how much yeast and sugar is supplied in the bottle. Since the 2L bottles types can hold more of both, the reaction will be last longer, and have a higher production rate in the short term (2 weeks) if supplied with more yeast (3/4 tsp).

You'll see an longer reaction, and increased CO2 production if you switch to the 2L bottle, and add a larger amount of yeast than recommended. This will shorten the life span of the CO2 from 3-4 weeks to 2 weeks, yet production will be dramatic more.

As Sean stated, wine yeast will also enhance the life of the reaction.

I recommend using (2) 2 liter bottles T-ed together for maximum CO2 production.

-John N.

Jimbo205

Both of my setups are still running fine. When done do they just stop?

Or do I have to somehow guess when it is 'slowing down'? My 3 Liter bottle has this real nice continuous tiny bubble stream going and the tinier the bubbles I assume the better the absorption.

The Nutrafin ladder is still going. Not like crazy, but still going.

So, how do you know when to 'recharge' ?

invisibleshopper

Hi,

I am going to try to make the bubble counter in this thread but am worried about poisoning the fish by using glue to fix the check valve into the syringe.

What kind of glue is recommended?

Thanks,

KLT

John N.

I've used standard Epoxy Glue without adverse problems. But I've used silcone glue with positive results but after a few months the silicone will need replacing placing.

You can also try a DIY Separator Bottle

Much like Mikee's DIY Separator Bubble Counter:
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/g...2_original.jpg

-John N.

bioch

wat if i use a bigger bottle, do i still fill it to 3/4

and also when i saw the check valve there is water in it? reason? thx