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Old 06-11-2003, 01:55 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Components

01-CLEAR PVC CEMENT
02-CELAR PVC CLEANER/PRIMER
03-TEFLON TAPE

03-1/4"BARBx1/2"NPT
04-5/8"BARBX3/4"NPT

05-2"x(6-12") CLEAR PVC
06-3/4"NPTx1" PVC
07-1"x1"x1/2"NPT REDUCER TEE
08-1"x2" PVC
09-1"X2" REDUCER BUSHING
10-2"X2" COUPLER
11-2"x2"x2"NPT TEST TEE
12-2"NPT PLUG

Loosely assembled


Other than cutting twp pieces of PVC this reactor requires no tools and no custom modification. It is just assembled from off the shelf pieces.

The clear PVC can be replaced with regular white PVC, but you will not be able to see what might be going on inside.

The test tee allows you to open up the rector for cleaning, etc. without disassembly.

THe length of (05-2"PVC) can be debated with some people requiring 24". I have been able to run a 100g with 275gph with this part being only 6" long.
NOTE: I forgot the bioballs in the picture. Jut put 3-6 bioballs int he tube before final assembly.

NOTE: When hanging the reactor it will work best if oriented -20deg from vertical.

James Hoftiezer

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Old 06-11-2003, 03:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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James,

I know this must have been asked and answered before, but where do you get clear PVC pipe?


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Old 06-11-2003, 04:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Here ya go:
US Plastics Corp
One source anyways.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Roger Miller:
James,

I know this must have been asked and answered before, but where do you get clear PVC pipe?


Roger Miller<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.
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Old 06-11-2003, 04:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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"NOTE: When hanging the reactor it will work best if oriented -20deg from vertical."

Still a newbie when it comes to reactors/CO2, so I was just wondering what the reason for the 20deg angle is.

How come you went with 2" PVC? Is that sufficient for a 100 gallon tank? I've seen others use 3"

Before I forget, thanks for posting this. The before and after photos are very good in showing how things go together.

Thanks,
Karl

------------------------------
http://www.geocities.com/kfh227- go there and see my future fish section to see what I have planned for my next 100+ gallon tank.
Note: I havn't maintained the site lately.
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Old 06-11-2003, 05:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I ordered two ft at $8ft from an www.aquatic-eco.com.
Clear PVC pipe, 2 in.

Like anything add shipping and its not really worth it so I got a few feet to share and bought some other things I needed. It is the only place I know that sells it by the foot. We've already made 2-3 reactors and I have enough for two more.

It is my opinion that a reactor should react. You need to really churn things up.

In this reactor stage one is the elbow. By using the 90 degree at the top it forces the water to be turbulent. By tilting the reactor at an angle you guarantee that the CO2 is getting trapped just where the turbulence will be greatest. It also keeps the CO2 from trying to run back up the hose as an air bubble.

Stage two is the typical jet of water hitting the bioballs that you see in most reactors.

This set up may explain why I've been able to get by with such a short reactor(14.5" over all (I think)). I am being honest when I say that I never see any bubbles getting past the bioballs or hear the formation of air pockets.

James Hoftiezer

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Old 06-11-2003, 05:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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hi james
thats a great looking reactor and i have a couple questions for your. first do you have your reactor hooked up to the intake or outtake of your canister filter? second for a 40 gallon how long do you think a diy reactor like this should be? ive been really wanting to make myself one of these babies but want to clarify some stuff before i even attempt it. thanks again
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Old 06-11-2003, 07:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have mone on the outflow from the filter to the tank.

For a 40g you could try using 1.5" PVC. I good experiment might be with 1". In either case experimentation would be needed.

As for the length all of the CO2 stays in the top 6" of mine. If I just crank the valve and create an air pocket, the bubbles still do not go down more than 2" into the clear PVC.

On a smaller line, you could use 1/2" hose and barbs which should increase the velocity of the water. Smaller PVC would also do that, but keep in mind you do need bioballs (1.25") or a scrubber pad inside the reactor.

James Hoftiezer

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Old 06-11-2003, 07:33 AM   #8 (permalink)
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cool thanks for the info james.
oh one last question since youre using pressurized i assume does the water flow pull co2 out of the co2 line? meaning this is pretty much the venturi effect no? since there is water flow and a co2 line there the water must try to pull co2 out. is there any danger in this? probably not im assuming but its always good to ask. also whered you get the clear pvc cement and the clear pvc cleaner/primer?
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Old 06-11-2003, 07:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Please pardon my complete ignorance, but the last time I had plants I just put the aquarium by the window and kept the ones that lived. Now, I'm setting up a 100 gal and am trying to do it right. I once had a fish store, but that was 20 years ago.

Did you cement all of the connections except the plug and tape it?

What do each of the 3 barbs connect with?

And, ta dah. The most basic question of all. Where does the C02 come from?
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Old 06-11-2003, 08:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
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It will but I count on that to keep my bubble counter full of water. What you'll find is the effect is negligable but you also need to keep a check valve inthe co2 line and look your CO2 line to prevent a backflush into the regulator.

Clear PVC cement can be gotten at any home depot/lowes/etc., but it is harder to find onthe shelf.

James Hoftiezer

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