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Old 07-23-2006, 02:12 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Would one of those drain strainers mounted on the drain pipe keep it from ever plugging? The supply line breaking doesn't bother me. I have had cannister filters running with that risk, plus the fact that they can siphon all of the water out pretty quickly. A check valve in the fill line would stop any siphoning thru the fill line.

Another question: I am a math major from college (along with other majors), but I forget how to come up with an equation for what percentage of the water is changed per day or week with such a system of slow, but constant water change. Do you know what it is? (I admit to being embarassed at having to ask this.)

Edit: My embarassment got the better of me! I looked it up in Wikipedia: The equation I found is at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dilution_(equation)
Using that equation I ended up with the following: to find what inlet flow of water will replace half of the tank's water volume in one week, use this:
Water flow in drops per minute = 5 times the tanks volume So, for my 45 gallon tank it takes 225 drops per minute, or about 4 drops per second.
This isn't 100% accurate, but is accurate enough for doing EI weekly water changes this way. (Unless I made a mistake - who wants to check my math?)

EDIT Again: With a system like this, how would one dose Prime or other dechlorinator? I could dose the tank every day, for example, but that would mean a dose for the entire contents of the tank, daily, which would be a major expense for Prime. So how do you dose the drops of water entering the tank?

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Old 07-23-2006, 05:34 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Just to let everyone know, the phython no spill kit is on sale at petsmart.com http://www.petsmart.com/global/produ...ext=python&N=2 Thats the link to the python. Most petsmarts match their online prices as long as you print it out and show them, but you should probably call in first. Enjoy.
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Old 07-23-2006, 08:38 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppycalif
Would one of those drain strainers mounted on the drain pipe keep it from ever plugging?
Yes that should work,setting the water level would be a little tougher tho.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppycalif
EDIT Again: With a system like this, how would one dose Prime or other dechlorinator? I could dose the tank every day, for example, but that would mean a dose for the entire contents of the tank, daily, which would be a major expense for Prime. So how do you dose the drops of water entering the tank?
This is from your simi-automatic water changes thread, it looks like a good system. it stated it cannot remain pressurized but at 2-3 PSI I doubt that it would be a problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Naja002
I use an EZ-Flo for the auto addition of dechlor. It works Great. I have the 3/4 gal. version for dechlor and it can be set for ratios between 400:1-15,000:1.

I have another 3 gal. EZ-Flo that I have been using for auto fert injection also.

Here's a link:

http://www.ezflofertilizing.com/

They may look like a glorified pump sprayer---but they are not. I did a lot of corresponding with them prior to purchase. They are well built and work as described......
I agree on your assesment of the risks associated keeping aquariums, I have had far more water in my carpet because of stupidity than I have from equipment failure. I proved this again tonight, I had a container of water sitting on my speaker next to my 80 Gal. I was acclimatising some new fish when I knocked the container (2 Liter pop bottle with the top cut out) over, it landed upside down fitting snugly between the tank stand and the speaker to my surprise it sat there on the carpet half full of water upside down. now what, I tried to slide a spatula under it to save some of the mess failing miserably ending up with the water except for about a teaspoon soaked into the carpet.

Brian
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Old 07-25-2006, 08:23 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I put a pump in a bucket witch is filled half way, it pumps everything to the sink or outside (the pipe is very long) and then I just reverse everything. With 75G it makes my life much easier I'll show pictures later

My uncle got me the pump and the whole set so it was free

Matt
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Old 07-25-2006, 09:15 AM   #25 (permalink)
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From another thread,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Naja002
Carbon filters do not remove chloramines. "Super-Activated" carbon will, but it breaks it down into chlorine and ammonia---the ammonia remains free....
Let me start out by saying I am no chemist or biologist and my planted tank knowledge is dated so this idea comes from a non scientific, rusty brain so correct my where I'm wrong, and forgive me if I'm way out in left field picking daises.

If I understand this right the only output after a "Super-Activated" carbon filter would be ammonia.

Ammonia below 7.0 PH is in the form of ammonium.
Ammonium is the preferred form of nitrogen for plants.

depending on the quantity of ammonia released from the breakdown of the chloramines wouldn't this just be a supplemental source of ferts for the plants, assuming that the levels are low and the PH is maintained below 7.0?

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Old 08-03-2006, 01:33 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I have a 50 and got tired of lugging buckets, so I just run it out the window. I just built the aquarium into a wall that backs up to a shower. After a little plumbing modification I am able to open the valves and fill the tank directly from the spigot. After over 20 years of buckets, sometimes I add some water to the tank just because I can.
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Old 08-07-2006, 02:37 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Smile brass seems ok, then?

[QUOTE=hoppycalif]In another thread I volunteered to show pics of how I change water, so here it is: All of the parts for this I got at my local hardware store, and the operation should be self evident.

I used to own a Python (loved it!), and I just built a DIY version last weekend somewhat similar to yours. I am reassured by the fact that you used some brass components. I was a little worried that brass might be harmful to fish or especially inverts (I keep Neocaridina denticula sinensis and some others) but if others are using brass components with no problems, I should be ok.
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Old 08-07-2006, 05:51 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I think if water sits in contact with a metal such as brass or copper or lead for several hours, and the water has a pH below 7, you might want to worry about contaminating the water. But, water flowing through copper piping, for example, is the tap water we use for water changes, routinely. The water would have to erode or corrode the metal before any significant amount would be introduced to the water. That's one reason water companies raise the pH of water they supply above 7.
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Old 08-09-2006, 02:56 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppycalif
I think if water sits in contact with a metal such as brass or copper or lead for several hours, and the water has a pH below 7, you might want to worry about contaminating the water. But, water flowing through copper piping, for example, is the tap water we use for water changes, routinely. The water would have to erode or corrode the metal before any significant amount would be introduced to the water. That's one reason water companies raise the pH of water they supply above 7.

Thanks...that's reassuring. My water comes out of the tap at 8.0, so I guess there's no problem there! Good news, because now I can use it on all of my tanks...at least the freshwater ones...that I can reach with a 30 ft hose. It probably won't be long before I add another 20 ft
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Old 10-05-2006, 02:22 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skinns View Post
Interesting, I actually water all my house plants/garden plants with my water changes. What a noticeable difference too!
What a great idea, never heard or thought of that before. I'm gonna start trying it.
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