JAXON777

How would I modify the reactor plans for say a 450 gph filter (xp4) or a 950 gph filter (fx5). Do I just make it longer? Wider? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks
JAX

hoppycalif

The body of the reactor is a much larger diameter than the inlet hose to slow down the water flow giving the CO2 enough time to dissolve into the water. So, the higher the flow rate the larger the diameter should be. I suspect 2 1/2" diameter is the biggest you would ever need.

ngb2322

Very nice reactor....I am switching from a wet/dry to an xP3 tomorrow, and I just happen to have bio-balls handy. Question though, A points to the ceiling and J to the ground, and L is the CO2 input. The flow of water then brings the CO2 bubble into the reactor and it wants to go up, but the water is going down, increasing contact time with the water thanks to the turbulence created by the bioballs. Just trying to understand how it works, lemme know if I got the gist of it...

ponyrandy

You have got the idea of how it works down, but there is debate about the use of bio-balls. I personally agree with others who believe that the bio-balls just restrict the flow through the reactor and serve no purpose.
Brian

JERP

I used one of these as a CO2 inlet valve on my diy reactor. The second valve is used as an air bleed. 4 years and no problems.

Just thought I'd share the knowledge.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...3+527952+90048

ngb2322

Pony--
It is interesting that you say that, because I just happened to put this whole thing together and forgot to put in the bio-balls. Guess I'll try it with out them, because although this was incredibly easy to put together, I suck with PVC primer and glue. One more thing -- I feel like I dripped the PVC primer and cement all over the inside and out side of the PVC. Is it inert once its try, i.e. I don't have to clean out the inside of the reactor of the dried goop? Also, to make it look a little better on the outside, any way to clean it off, or should I just go for the spray paint....

hoppycalif

Some building codes allow PVC pipe to be used for household water that is drinkable, so I doubt that dried PVC cement or primer are hazardous in any way. And, when you get water on it before it is dry it just comes off in a thin sheet of gummy plastic. I don't think even plumbers take much care to keep the cement from running all over the place. Those guys go fast, not meticulous.

ponyrandy

Yeah like hoppy said, it is safe for humans, so I can't imagine it would hurt the fish. As far as cleaning it off though, I don't know of any way to do that because the cement actually 'melts' the pipe, so its not just a matter of removing it. As a reminder for anyone who hasn't built one yet, be sure and buy the CLEAR primer, not the PURPLE one. As far as the bio-balls, if you have no bubbles coming out into the tank, the reactor is doing it's job and I would certainly not put them in and slow the flow down. One more side note, it has been said here before that the expensive clear PVC is not necesary, and its not, it doesn't make it work any better, but with the clear PVC by shining a flashlight behind the reactor, you can actually watch it work and the bubbles dissipate, so you can see exactly how well it is working.
Brian

jmontee

Has anyone had any problems with filling the chamber of an inline reactor. I have it plumbed into the inlet of my canister and I can't get the air out of it. I am planning to DIY a plastic valve at the tube that connects the tube from the tank to the reactor so that I can open it and close it once it is filled. Any suggestions?

hoppycalif

The reactor is much better on the outlet of the filter, not the inlet. But, even there, I have had to install a bleed valve on top of mine so my Rena XP3 filter will prime properly. Without it the gas trapped in the reactor keeps the priming from working. I think the same fix would work with the reactor in the inlet line.