For those of you looking for DIY reactor plans, here is the parts list (should be self explainatory) for the many reactors that I have built.
Most of the parts can be found at Home Depot. I got some items at www.mcmaster.com such as the 3/4" barbs and clear tubing. The airline fitting and bioballs can be found at your LFS.
Does anyone have a dismantled parts diagram for this reactor. I need to see the parts seperately in order to explain them to the people (lfs) here. I can not find each of them as they are not exactly sure what to give. I'm very interested in doing this regulator, it is just what I'm looking for.
I really like the use of part #13. I sawed my own reactor into two pieces and reconnected it with that test tee. This allows you to remove or add bio balls.
Gomer, Wow! 10 reactors? Now I could imagine you did some experimentation. Did you build ones without bio balls and think it was better/worse?
Part #13 was something I was hunting for but was extremely hard to find for some reason. Instead, I ended up using G-H which unscrew. I don't think you'll ever need to dismantle these guys if you run on the output of the filter though.
I built 10 so that I could built them affordably LOL. Buying in bulk really helped. All 10 were made identical. I actually based mine on Jame's reactor using what was available to me LOL.
Gomer, i constructed the reactor and its length is 60cm (24"). I still see a lot of tiny bubbles coming out of the spray bar and the co2 is injecting 1 bubble/sec.
would it help to have the input of the CO2 at the bottom of the reactor instead at the top?
any advice on how to handle this problem with the bubbles?
1) is the reactor oriented vertically?
2) is the CO2 input on the TOP section?
3) Does flow go from top to bottom?
4) Did make sure that the reactor is completely full of water and doesn't have a big pocket of water in it? (if it is setup like 1-3, then just invert when you have flow)
There is a good possibility that the air bubbles are trapped O2/N2. While you have flow, turn the reactor upside down. You will probably get a big burp. After the reactor is emptied of gasses, you should have no more problems
There is a good possibility that the air bubbles are trapped O2/N2. While you have flow, turn the reactor upside down. You will probably get a big burp. After the reactor is emptied of gasses, you should have no more problems
I don't think there can possibly be enough O2/N2 accumulation as to cause a 24" reactor at 1 bubble CO2 per second to constantly burp tiny bubbles. While it is normal for a reactor to burp bubbles during the first few days of operation, if it continues to burp tiny bubbles then your flow rate is stronger than the natural buoyancy of the CO2 bubbles, thus flushing them out of the reactor. Two things you can do to remedy this: (1) lower flow rate and/or (2) put more bio-balls, bio-rings, etc. The former is usually not very negotiable but it is pretty easy to stuff the reactor with more bio-balls/rings/stars/etc., even when it has already been sealed. Simply hack-saw the PVC tube in half, stuff it, and join the two pieces back together with an appropriately-sized PVC coupling. These obstructions slow down flow rate and trap gas bubbles; thereby allowing their dissolution before being blasted into your tank.
When I open up my canister and re-prime after cleaning, I introduce air. THis is the only time that I may have burping. After purged, I never have any burping issues. I run pressurized CO2.
When I open up my canister and re-prime after cleaning, I introduce air. THis is the only time that I may have burping. After purged, I never have any burping issues. I run pressurized CO2.
Thanks for the response, Tony. Now that you mention it, I had not noticed any gas build-up prior to opening my canister filter for cleaning. Thanks for the tip.
Does this sound like a good deal for 1 foot length. Is there any other place that sells Clear PVC by the foot? If so, could you post the link. Thanks
jB
We can find it in hawaii for $4/foot, but you have to buy 10 feet. I would imagine it is less on the mainlad considering everything is more expensive here on the islands. You can try a plastics supply house I believe that is where Aaron picked ours up.
Just be careful of what size you buy. I found out yesterday that the 2" doesn't dissolve the CO2 well enough with a Fluval 304 filter (hence the message I sent the other day). I don't think the Fluval is powerful enough to keep the bubbles "suspended" in the reactor water flow. The CO2 just collects at the top and forms a pocket. I just bought 1-1/2" PVC to try. I will finish and install tonight so I will let you know how that works (if you are interested or use a fluval).
www.usplastics.com might be able to help you but at a premium for 1ft lenghts.
Ken, I have the reactor design powered by both a Filstar XP1 and an XP2 without any problems whatsoever. One thing that might help is the 90° angle that generates a fair amount of turbulance.
Thanks for the tips Ken and G. USP only sells in 10 foot. G, can you send me a direct link to get this clear pvc. I can find it......oh and the barbs.....I want 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 just so i have them. I was able to find everything else.....now i just need this one piece.
THanks
jB
Do you place the CO2 inlet directly at the 90 elbow or just before it (closer to the inlet). Now that I think of it, I placed the CO2 inlet after the elbow (closer to the reactor body). Do you think the CO2 isn't getting "chopped" into fine enough particles to dissolve?
Thanks Tom,
I have been in contact with them over the last few days. They want a $20 min or they charge handling fee of 5. So we are looking at over $20 for a 1 foot piece of plastic. Does anyone have a better idea. $20 kind of defeats DIY doesnt it? Maybe we could get a bunch of us to order. PLEASE HELP!!! At this point why not spend $15 more and get a real one and save the headache. HAHAHAHA
Thanks
jB
I used some brass fittings on mine and I have not had any problems.
As for the clear PVC, I used the clear PVC from the Python gravel tube. It is 2" diameter and thickness feels pretty good. I guess if you can get that part cheap in your area, it might be an alternative. Just an idea.
Thanks,
Huey
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