clogstonian

Hey, i really enjoy DIY apparatus just for the sake of DIY but what is the issue with a simple CO2 feed line tapped into the canister intake? I'm running a XP2 on a 40g and haven't had any issues over the past 4 months, good CO2 levels . . . . am i missing something or it merely the skinning of the cat philosophy?

-thanks

hoppycalif

There are several ways to get CO2 into the water. The external reactor is an efficient way. Adding CO2 to the inlet of a canister filter works fine when it works fine. Other times, with other filters, it can "airlock" the filter pump, shutting off the water flow. It also can, with some filters, burp big masses of bubbles periodically. And, some people think it damages the filter pump rotor when done for a long time. But there are disadvantages to every method for adding CO2.

CobraGuppy

Hi, i have some questions about making a reactor.. I read through pages 10-here (and the 1st post) but some of it doesn't make since because the pictures don't show.

Here is a pic of my model: (it isn't glued yet)


I use 2 2 liter bottles of diy c02 and an xp3 if that helps.. The thing would be vertical of course. The inlet would be on the left (top if in use) and the outlet would be on the right of the pic (bottom)

The 45 degree angle is where the c02 would come in. Its reduced down to barb that can grip the airline tubing.

Is this model effecient? It measures to 15 inches.

I just see a lot of people drilling holes and although i would prefer not to drill holes, is it better? The thing i am afraid of with this model is that the water will go down the 45 degree part and make to much pressure, not letting the c02 out. If i changed that part to a 90 degree angle tee, would that help?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

ponyrandy

Looks like it should work just fine the way it is. The co2 has more pressure than the water so that won't be a problem. The only thing I would do different is change out the co2 barb for a check valve so that no water can get into the co2 line. My fear is if the hose blows off or bursts, it will drain the tank.
Brian

CobraGuppy

Hm, where can i get a check valve for that spot? Because the tubing goes in like 1/2 inch and its pretty hard to pull out. I was thinking of just putting a check valve right before the it goes in.

So it would be this order: Brass barb thing > small piece of tubing > check valve > tubing to c02 and mixture.

ponyrandy

Thats the way just about everyone does it and I have never heard of anyone having a problem. But, if that line should fail, it will drain the tank. That short piece of tubing can fail just as easily as a long piece. I got my check valve from www.mcmaster.com.
Brian

CobraGuppy

I was able to get a coupling
I think i might silicon the tubing to the joints that are before the check valve.

Oh yeah, i just remembered. When i was reading through this thread, i think it was you who said that you shouldn't use Purple primer. Why is that? I couldn't find any clear primer and so the only one i have is purple.

Thanks for any help

ponyrandy

Purple primer works fine, it just makes everything purple. The clear primer just makes a nicer looking job. Both Lowe's and Home Depot carry it, it should be right next to the purple.
Brian

CobraGuppy

Oh, i'm not really worried about aesthetics I'll just make to sure to always keep my stand closed.

Thanks !

derringer

Are these reactors running before the intake of your canisters? I know if the slightest bit of air gets into my eheim 2026 it starts to slurp - seems it might be wiser to set them up on the outake side ...

Anyone?