Here is a more recent project. This is a DIY CO2 reactor/ inline heater. I saw someone else put the two together and liked the idea. One upgrade I gave this model is I used a titanium heater. This has two benefits that I see. One, the whole heater is submersed in the water so no hot spots where the water doesn’t move quickly; and two, the temp control and on/off indicator are on the plug, so I see when it’s on and can adjust the temp real easy. I’ll mount the plug near the door for easy viewing/adjusting.
Here is the heater I used. It’s the Azoo 300 watt titanium heater. The heater is much shorter than a normal glass heater which was great for my application, since I needed to fit the pump on top of the unit.
I used a hacksaw blade to cut a slit in a 2” 90° elbow. I slid the heater cord through the slit before gluing.
I used marine 2 part epoxy putty to fill around the cord from the inside and out and to fill the gap from the cut. I found the putty at Ace Hardware, it’s safe for potable water and says right on the package that it bonds to PVC. You can kind of see that in the first pic.
I mounted the heater clip in the center of the PVC elbow using a nylon bolt and nylon spacer. I covered the nylon nut with the epoxy putty as well.
I attached a length of PVC just long enough to cover the heater and mounted the second clip to the top. This section of PVC can be unscrewed for cleaning when needed. I didn’t use the putty to cover the top nut since it will be easier unscrew the pipe if I take off the top clip first. I used a rubber gasket and lots of teflon tape to seal this one.
I attached a valve at the base of heater module using the epoxy putty. The valve has a quick release connection that fits airline. This will be used to lower the water level so that I can remove the whole unit for maintenance, without spilling water everywhere.
When I first tried to screw the arm on after attaching the drain valve I was very disappointed to find that the valve was too long and couldn’t clear the CO2 reactor. I had used a female slip on the heater 90 and a male slip on the CO2 90 to conserve space, leaving little room between the two modules. I was kicking myself for that one. Luckily I was able to clip off the end of the valve to make just enough clearance. Without the end of the valve the airline can be knocked out easily, but it’s not a big deal since I will only be attaching the tubing when I need to drain it.
In the above pic you can also see where the CO2 line will connect. I used a one barb fitting that is used in drip irrigation systems. As it turns out that this barb doesn’t make a watertight fit with my CO2 tubing. Luckily a zip tie took care of that problem easily. As you can see from the first pic, I have a check valve after the barb so I can still unhook the tubing easily when performing maintainance.
Here’s another shot of how the heater is attached.
And to finish this post here is another shot of the completed project. I’ll go into detail of how it’s attached to my plumbing in later posts.
