Okay, so I decided to build the stand for my 10 Gallon because well I don't want to spend 80 buck on one. I like minimalism in my stands and don't care for full cabinet styles, especially on smaller tanks as they tend to look too blocky. So here we go.
1 piece of solid poplar cut to size of tank.
4 1/4"x4-1/2" hex bolt with 2 washers and nut each.
8 1/4"x3-1/2" hex bolt with 2 washers and nut each.
4 1/4"x3-1/2" lag bolt with 1 washer each.
2 T-Brackets w/ screws
6 wood screws
6 Furniture floor pegs
~ $20 sanded and unfinished.
The beauty of this design is it can be adjusted for nearly any size tank by exchanging the 2"x3"'s for 2"x4"'s, 6's or a combo of the three.
I started with the table top section. First I attached the two side beams on the outer edges of the poplar table top. 2 wood screws from the top of the board. I counter-sunk the screws so the hole can be filled and sealed later.
Then I inserted a cross beam, on center. It is secured with one lag bolt on each side. As you can see below, the head of the lag bolt is recessed into the side beams. This is so it can be hidden by the 1"x4" appearance boards that will wrap the table top.
Next the base of the tank is framed. The T-brackets are used to secure the framing square and is not intended to be structural. Lag bolts will be used to provide the structural integrity as in the table top frame. These lag bolts will not be recessed, however.
The furniture pads are placed on the same side as the T-Brackets so they are not seen in the completed piece. The furniture pads used here are adjustable to insure a level tank.
Next the Vertical supports are attached to the table top. A single 1/4" hole is drilled on center to each support. The hole extends through the side beam of the table top frame as well as the 1"x4" appearance board.
The whole side is assembled at once with the 4-1/4" hex bolts extending through each piece. It is given a quick tightening with enough give left to adjust the vertical supports square and plumb.
The frame base is attached in a similar manner except 2 hex bolts are used. They are placed at 45 degree angle to each other to insure the verticals don't pivot or buckle under the weight of the water. At this time the lag bolt is secured to the base cross-beam (not pictured).
The framing is set square and plump before the hex bolts are given the final tightening. 2 levels and a speed square remain in contact with the stand as I tightened the bolts to insure everything stays square and plumb while tightening.
This is how it looks with the final 1"x4" attached to table top frame with 2, counter-sunk, wood screws. It has been sanded as is awaiting the sealing of the 6 wood screw holes before priming and painting. I haven't done this yet.
As you can see its a very open design. Shelves can be installed if desired; it can also be adapted to have a door for a non-cube looking cabinet stand.
The lighting project will soon be in the works. I first need to figure some things out so watch for another thread for insight on that one.