DogFish2.0

Doing a final clean before tapping. Decided I want better edges than I am able to do with my disc sander. That adds +$25 & off to the glass shop, assemble date pushed to next week.

DogFish2.0

Just picked up my glass after having it run through the Grinder/Polisher machine at true glass shop. I'm very happy with the results. This is not a step to skip if you plan on building a Rimless tank.

Jane in Upton

I found some good information regarding tempered, "Starfire" and other glass considerations from these folks:

http://www.greatlakesaquariums.com/a...lete-list.aspx

Their tanks look gorgeous, but they only ship the smaller ones.
-Jane

vancat

Hi Jane, how's the light working?

fwfan

this may be a litlle late if you already have the glass, but go for "starfire" (that's a brand name, the generic term is "low iron") It's clearer than regular glass without the green tint. Thiner glass isn't too bad, but there's a noticable difference when you get into 3/8 and thicker.

Everything I've read on building tanks says to put the 4 sides on top of the bottom pane. I have a 125 that I built this way and no issues with the silicone holding. keep in mind that it is not just the silicone shear strength that is holding it in place, at each corner you have an entire seam holing that pane in place.

Lastly, I would reccomend havin all your edges polished. I originally thoght this would give less holding strength but after building it I think it actually increases it because of the nooks it give the silicone to hold onto

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dmf326

this guy doesn't seem to have a problem with the curing timeframe.
http://youtu.be/URF8zJ61idk