| El Natural Diana Walstad's low-maintenance, soil-based 'El Natural' method for keeping plants and fish. |  | |
10-25-2004, 03:17 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 0
Plant Points: 3600 | is getting algae eating fish really a solution to a large algae problem? i hear the best way is to make sure the plants have all the nutrients they need in the correct quantities so that there is no excess for algae to take advantage of and so the plants consume everything properly. is this possible withour fertilization? just looking for some ideas/suggestions
graham |
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10-25-2004, 03:17 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 0
Plant Points: 3600 | is getting algae eating fish really a solution to a large algae problem? i hear the best way is to make sure the plants have all the nutrients they need in the correct quantities so that there is no excess for algae to take advantage of and so the plants consume everything properly. is this possible withour fertilization? just looking for some ideas/suggestions
graham |
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10-25-2004, 05:30 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Member of SCAPE
Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: San Diego
Posts: 119
Plant Points: 10400 | Once I got PO4 to 0.5-1.0 ppm and NO3 to 5.0-10.0 ppm, my algae forest stopped growing, turned dark green and peeled away from the driftwood, and didn't grow anymore on new growth. As I pruned away the old growth with the algae, my tank looked better immediately. But I inject to achieve CO2 of 20-30 ppm!
I really can't understand how a nutritious water column can't also feed algae. I don't understand this competition business.
I don't mean to be a wiseass, but if your water source is blessed with a nitrate / phosphate ratio of about 10 to 1, your water has a low KH (any CO2 available is not bound up), and you change your water frequently, my guess is that you'll have no algae. |
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10-26-2004, 10:58 AM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 536
Plant Points: 60560 | Hi,
The best way to contain algae is to have healthy, growing plants. This is accomplished in a natural aquarium by having a good substrate, reasonble light, and by feeding the fish well. If you do that, long term, algae will not be an issue.
As I understand it (and that understanding is limited), algae can prosper on fewer nutrients and lower light levels than can higher plants.
So fertilizing the water column helps those plants to prosper and eventually outcompete (yes, outcompete) the algae for the limiting nutrients.
Bill |
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10-27-2004, 01:58 AM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,241
Plant Points: 71975 | <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by graham1212:
is getting algae eating fish really a solution to a large algae problem? i hear the best way is to make sure the plants have all the nutrients they need in the correct quantities so that there is no excess for algae to take advantage of and so the plants consume everything properly. is this possible withour fertilization? just looking for some ideas/suggestions
graham <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I don't add chemical fertilizers to my tanks.
My plants get what they need from the soil substrate, which is constantly enriched by recycled fishfood. Since algae doesn't have access to soil substrate nutrients (especially iron), the plants have an advantage over algae. The plants (fortified by substrate iron) can simultaneously drain nutrients from the water and deprive algae. There's no need to add nutrients (especially iron!) to the water.
My book has a whole chapter on algae control. Algae-eating fish may help control some forms of algae but vigorous plant growth is your best bet.
Two caveats:
(1)For hobbyists with softwater AND poor plant growth, I recommend fertilizing water with what I call "the hardwater nutrients" (that is, calcium, magnesium, and potassium). If your water is hard (GH of 8 or greater), this shouldn't be necessary.
(2) Hobbyists that have CO2 injection often need to add iron and nitrogen fertilizers to maintain good plant growth that can compete with algae. This is often an effective strategy for them. However, this requires (in my opinion) considerable work/expense, and the tank becomes increasingly artificial. |
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11-27-2004, 12:08 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 0
Plant Points: 3600 | I also had a algae problem in my tank. I would keep the front of the tank clean but the back and sides and some of the plants were covered it didnt bug me much becouse the plants were still growing and the fish were happy. But I decided to see if I could come up with some kind of easy answer. I bought 2 cory cats, 2 large white snails, 1 chineese algae eater and 1 fish that looks like a flounder"sorry dont know what its called I bought it becouse it looks cool" I put these all in the tank and within 3 days they cleared almost all the algae off the glass infact alot of it got knocked on the gravel, I had to vacuum off the debree of the gravel.And after about two weeks the glass is clean and so are the plants. Plant growth rate is faster also. On a side note I also increased the water movement in my tank to get stuff moving around alittle. I wish I would have done all this long ago this is the easyist tank and most sucsessfull tank ive ever done. |
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11-29-2004, 08:40 AM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,241
Plant Points: 71975 | It sounds like you did the right thing for your tank. Similarly, I had a little blue-green algae in my 55 gal. Plants were doing okay but the algae was making it tough for them. I added a single treatment of Maracyn (erthromycin) and it killed the algae within a day or two. Now two weeks later, algae is totally gone and plants are doing much better!
In summary, sometimes when plant growth is being held back by algae, it may help to use a trick or two like the one you've described. Once you get past this "tipping point", plant growth should become strong enough to check algal growth. |
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12-10-2004, 10:41 AM
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#8 (permalink)
| | Member
Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Israel
Posts: 60
Plant Points: 3600 | Diane,
Concerning your single maracyn treatment. Shouldn't any antibiotic treatment last at least couple of days after visible BGA? I mean - just to make sure that it's completely whipped off? I think this is the recommendation for humans taking antibiotics.
Aviel. |
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12-12-2004, 12:29 PM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,241
Plant Points: 71975 | Aviel,
I'm can't give a definitive answer on this, but it is a very good question. Technically and accordingly to conventional wisdom, you are probably right.
However, I think there's a little leeway. In a healthy tank with good plant growth (which is what I had), a brief treatment that kills 99.9% of the algae may be enough. Enough to tip the balance for the plants. I've not seen a speck of blue-green algae in this tank since the treatment.
I believe that good plant growth is the main, long-term defense.
Likewise in a healthy human with a lingering infection, a brief shot of antibiotics that kills 99.9% of the infectious bacteria may be all that is needed. The immune system can take care of the rest.
One reason I question conventional wisdom on antibiotics is that USA farmers feed their livestock with tons of antibiotics. And they don't have to get a prescription! |
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12-28-2004, 08:56 AM
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#10 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 0
Plant Points: 3600 | The argument for doing the full AB treatment is that partial treatments, over time, may selectively breed AB resistant bacteria. I don't think that the comparison of algae to human diseases is very good. The diseases occur mainly in people, so a goodly part of the total population is regularly introduced to antibiotics, wheras algae (and other bacteria in the aquarium) grows the world over and only the tinyest fraction ever meets it's LD50 of antibiotics. This means that any slightly AB resistant genes would be quashed by the wild genes and not further develop into 'superbugs'. |
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