Manxjason

Hi all, I'm new to this forum but look forward to using it a lot in the future.

I currently have a 55galon (UK) with an Eheim Pro 3 2073, stocked not too heavily with small Clown Loach (upgrading further down the line).

The tank has been set up now for about 9 months, and is mature in terms of the biological filtration.

Up until this time I have been using very easy to grow plants, amazons, anubias, elodea etc, but I now feel it's time to start planting a bit heavier for a jungle/river tank with high flow (above the sand).

I'm definitely fixed on using a sand substrate, specifically for the loaches., and I have some silver sand to cap the soil with.

You're probably mostly in the US? but, the soil to use over here is the John Innes no2.

My question is... as I already have a stocked tank, can I prepare the soil in any way to prevent the ammonia leach? (baking/drying out?) If so, is there a particular method? and how long should I leave it drying/baking/temp? A bit of ammonia isn't a problem thanks to API Ammo Lock,but what I want to avoid is a big nitrIte spike.

Ideally, as I already have stock - once the soil is prepared I'd like to get the tank done within an hour to prevent the loss of any beneficial bacteria within the filter.

Just a thought when filling up to prevent any cloudy water, is it worth leaving a 1" cap around the outside of the soil to cap the side with sand too? It's not really an issue if it does however as the eheim would have it spotless in no time.

thanks

Michael

Welcome to APC!

The best way to prevent an ammonia spike when setting up a soil substrate tank is to mineralize the soil first. You can find extensive articles about this in the Library, and even an illustrated instruction guide.

Mineralization is a process that rapidly decomposes the organic material in the soil to a more stable form (humus) that does not release much ammonia when submerged. The critical part of the process is the alternating cycles of wetting and drying.

I don't know what the ingredients are in John Innes #2. The different additives recommended for mineralized soil are intended to make the soil more stable and correct any nutrient defficencies. You may not be need them depending on what is in Innes #2. Things to avoid are fertilizers, manures, and immature compost--these are fine for terrestrial plants, but too rich for use in the aquarium.

Manxjason

Hi and thanks for your reply.

The John Innes No.2 contains: 'Traditional loam-based formulation with limestone and grit sand'. On our UK forums, people are using 1, 2 and 3. Number 2 has more nutrients in it, and is used as it doesn't clump together as much, allowing for better flow within the water column.

I have a question about the mineralising of the soil. Over the few articles I've read, people add different things to the mixture (clay/coral) etc. I have clown loaches, so I want the PH to remain at around 6.4 - soft water. Can I safely skip the adding of other substances, and purely soak the soil, dry, soak, dry etc?

thanks
Jason

Diana K

Yes, skip the minerals that make the water harder.

I would test a bit like this:
Put a few handfuls of the soil in a small container of the water you want to use (perhaps some tank water) and test that water every few days. Especially GH, KH and TDS to see if it is leaching any minerals, and all the nitrogens (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) to see what the story is there. Run the test for at least a week.
In the mean time, go ahead with the beginning of the mineralizing of the soil. Start soaking the whole batch, without adding anything.
After you see the test results on the sample you can add whatever you think is needed to the sample (and test again) before you add it to the whole batch.

It might be that simply wetting and drying several times (with no additives) is enough to drop the level of nitrogens so it is safe to add the fish pretty fast to the tank.

If the soil makes the water somewhat too hard (raises GH and KH higher than you want for the Loaches) then you might need to add some peat moss to the tank or to the filter. Peat moss does not decompose like most organic matter, but can soften the water a bit, and lower the pH. This will not work if the GH and KH are way too high, though.

Manxjason

Thanks for the info Diana. I put some of the soil into a jug last night and filled with water. Ammonia tested at 0.50 ppm.

I'll start the mineralising tonight