Go Back   Aquatic Plant Central > Special Interest Forums > Fertilizing
User Name
Password

Advertise on APC

Fertilizing Science of Aquatic Fertilizing - Discuss fertilizing techniques and proper aquatic plant nutrition here.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-09-2003, 09:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Freemann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Greece
Posts: 340
iTrader Ratings: 0
Freemann is a regular member
Plant Points: 23100
Default

Ok this is the electronic diagram of automatic water changes it is a 2 stage description start from the top photo, this is on the stage when timer switches on for a predetermined time to remove the amount of water needed to be changed next one is the aquarium on the the stage with the water on the lower level when fresh water is introduced. There are 2 floater for security reason this floaters will turn on only after the water has lowered enough and will not in case of evaporation.
Bear in mind that when the tank refills again floater will switch off and input will stop
I hope you understand the diagram all comments are welcome
http://www.bellybean.com/~pave/aquar...es_diagram.jpg
Freemann is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote

Advertisement [Remove Advertisement]

Old 04-09-2003, 08:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
Posts: n/a
Plant Points:
Default

So what happens if something sticks open/closed? Build in redundancy in at least 2-3 places.

I had several spots that things would stop should something not work right.

Coming home to water on the floor ain't fun.

What I tend to like are well set up simple devices that are easier to work on/clean etc that are manual.

A quick change water change set up.Something you can drain 70 gallons in about 3 minutes and refill in 5 minutes and not lift a bucket etc.

I can do that a couple of times a week easy. I have never seen a need to do more than 2 x 50% -75% weekly changes for any reason.

I have a mega siphon which does this. The bath has a simple adapter for a fast refill.

I know myself, I'd spend more time monkeying with the auto dose set ups than this.
An Auto top off device is easy and not too bad.

You can also place a simple Ghori style CO2 reactor before the canister filter also.

Regards,
TomBarr
 
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2003, 05:41 AM   #13 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
iTrader Ratings: 0
imported_aspen is a regular member
Plant Points: 3600
Default

hi freeman. i would suggest you take partucular care with the bracket used to hold the float switches to the tank. many times, this type of set-up will fail, due to a loose float switch. so, make doubly sure that you have a very positive method of installation for these switches. i do not like to use a plastic bracket with nylon screws. these will not last long, in good shape, imo. plan these brackets properly, and take some time making them. they are VERY important to your set-up, and will make the difference between water all over the floor or not.

there are a couple of types of these float switches available, that i know of. the mercury type is the one which will last a long time, and operate many times without failure. they have 'motor rated' contacts. there is also a reed type. the reed style switch was devised to operate very quickly, (100 times per sec?) but not designed to handle a large load. while a 10 va solenoid is a very small load, i find the mercury switch to be much more reliable, and would be the correct switch for your application. they are the same price.

there are relays made with neon lights on them, to show when they are activated. there are also relays with a manual push feature, which allows you to operate them manually. these are also great features to have when troubleshooting your system, or simply to see what is going on electrically at a glance when setting things up. i can buy a relay (ice cube style) as i've described for about 10 bucks, so it is not an issue of price, but knowing they are out there. i rarely buy 8 pin relays (2 sets of contacts) when the 11 pin (3 sets of contacts) are readily available. you never know when the other set of contacts wil come in handy.

ensure all wiring is tight, secure and in metal enclosures. i have seen a few of these types of installations, with simply wires thrown everywhere. make sure your wiring is neat. this will be a big help later, when figuring out which wire is which (numbering them is really great too) and will make for a better job in the long run. set things up, fool with your connections with wires nice and long, then once everything is the way you want it, trim them back and neaten them up, tie-wraping in place.

i have heard of water sensors, which operate a switch when water is present. i would strongly advise you to get one, and place it on the floor under the tank. when water is detected, both solenoids should shut off, and maybe an alarm would sound.

these are a few helpful suggestions, but you look like you got things covered. good luck.

one thing i really like about your project is, that it is only 'semi automatic'. meaning, to start the cycle, user input is required- you need to start the timer yourself to start the water change. this is something i would do also, i don't trust having this type of thing working when i'm not there.

hth, rick
imported_aspen is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2003, 06:14 AM   #14 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
iTrader Ratings: 0
imported_aspen is a regular member
Plant Points: 3600
Default

a couple of other things come to mind:

when you are finished, you need to ask yourself the 'what if' questions. example: what if power is cycled off to the timer? does it cycle a water change? if so, then you ned to re-think things. things should happen only when you want them to, and they should always work correctly. and as tom says, 'what happens when something fails?' everything fails, and when it does, you want the system to just stop working, not throw water all over the place.

solenoid valves NEED a manual valve to back them up. you want to be able to service the 'empty tank' solenoid, without emptying the tank, right? that is what the manual valve is for. also, the valve can act to limit the water flow when needed- a very helpful thing at times.

rick
imported_aspen is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Aquatic Plant Central > Special Interest Forums > Fertilizing > [Wet Thumb Forum]-Filtration schematic for my 500 lt planted aquarium

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:37 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

LinkBacks Enabled by vBSEO 3.1.0

Copyright © 2006 - 2009 Aquatic Plant Central | About Aquatic Plant Central | Advertising Opportunities | Legal | A member of the Crowdgather Forum Community
Created by Blue Moose Designs