It's alway's harder to re-learn some thing's than to learn.
All those number's don't mean much when you're tank is over run with algae as it has been...
Very few people get into this hobby to test and monitor nutrient levels, crunch number's or grow algae.
Most get into it to grow plants and aquascape. That's the experience you need and desire.
So that should be you're focus, not the algae and number crunching, that's all this method does in simple term's.
This method requires good stable CO2 during the lighting peroid.
You need to manually remove the algae that is there.
High levels of CO2 will stop the algae growth, it will not remove it.
You can prune off the affected area's easily and then replant.
Test kits lie, algae never lies, add more CO2 than what you have. Ignore your test kit's for a little while, better yet, put them away, slowly add more C02, even if it is 40 50ppm, just watch the fish, Let the fish and plant's be you're test kit for awhile.
Turn CO2 off at night, that will prevent high levels from building up and allow a chance to off gas at night.
Add more KNO3 KH2PO4 CO2 and Traces.
I do this to try to help people, This method does work, and it will solve you're trouble, but you will have to work it and get a feel for it.
Once again, test kit's lie, plant's and algae never lie, so those number's don't mean anything, you have an enormous amount of light on that tank, that schedule I made out for you will give you a much better balance that you are looking for.
The large weekly water changes prevent build up no matter what dosing errors you might do.
Originally Posted by Freemann
pH no current reading but there is ample CO2 almost 100 bpm all dissolved and plants bubble from hour one on light circle.
This tank has a constant problem of thread algae, BAG, Spot algae, algae seems to have a vigorous growth like the plants and needs to be cleaned daily to keep the plants "free" of it
bpm is useless, measure C02 2 way's kh/ph/C02 chart http://www.sfbaaps.com/reference/table_01.shtml
Slowly increase till fish start to stress then back off.
Plant's and fish are you're best test kit.
Bottom line Freeman, you are not providing enough nutrient's for you're plant's to thrive, something is limited and causing it to bottom out during the day and when that happen's the door is open for algae.
Day1) 50%H20 change, dose 1TspKN03/ 1/4TspKH2P04/ 1/4TspK2S04
Day2) Dose Trace 15ml/ 2to 3ml Iron
Day3) Dose mAcro's again 1TspKN03/ 1/4TspKH2P04/ 1/4TspK2S04
Day4) Same as day2
Day5) Same as day3
Day6)Same as day2
Day7) Re-set 50%H20 change, dose 1TspKN03/ 1/4TspKH2P04/ 1/4TspK2S04
You may or may not have to tweak amounts here and there to suit your tanks needs depending on what you are growing, how heavy planted the tank is, fish load etc. by adjusting the amounts, but not the frequency in which you dose, be dilligent and disciplined
Algae is growing because plant growth is slow, to stop the algae, you must increase plant growth.
With C02 in the 30 to 35ppm range with this schedule as a guide you will see a decrease in algae growth,and an increase in plant growth, you do need to manually remove as much of the algae as possible. :End Quote: