Zapins

Hmm... any updates on using ammonia or urea in lieu of NO3?

JamesC

Funny you should mention it as I've just stopped dosing the urea about 3 weeks ago and gone back to straight potassium nitrate. So far to be honest I haven't noticed any real change so am now coming round to the idea that perhaps it wasn't the dosing of urea that had the effect as during the dosing of the urea I also suffered stunting at times.

I still have the Ludwigia Glandulosa which sometimes grows fine and other times doesn't. I'm still at a loss as why it happens. And before others jump in and say CO2 I'm going to say that I've had CO2 and flow levels really high and have also given the Ludwigia Glandulosa it's own personal supply of CO2 mist. I'm now strating to believe that it is to do with growth rates and that trying to make it grow too fast causes the deformations. I've dropped the T5's in favour of the old T8's and will note to see if this makes any difference.

One thing I have noticed is that the blyxa japonica does a lot better with higher nitrate levels.

James

Mr_docfish

One thing I have noticed (it was obvious after I finally thought of it) is I have been using ammonium nitrate NH4NO3, and testing weekly for nitrate only.... I have been keeping the NO3 at 15-20ppm, and now I keep it at 10ppm.... with much better results now.... I was over dosing the total N by not considering the NH4.....
I feel silly having said this, I should have noticed a long time ago.

kekon

I saw similar effects and it seems better growth occurs when NO3 is lower.
Blyxa Japonica is a plantwhich really appreciates high NO3 levels; i've never had any issues with this plant. I grows like a weed at NO3 10 ppm or more but some plants are severely stunted.
I'm still waiting for my ordered circulation pump but i think it will not help much.
I noticed that NH4 and urea work better in very soft water. In harder water NO3 is better. Generally speaking it seems that the harder the water the more NO3 can be dosed without harming the plants.