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Old 08-22-2005, 06:08 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Starting a fertalizing rutine

I am aware that rapid changes to an aquarium is hard on fish. When I get my ferts from Greg Watson should I immediately dump the required amount into the tank or do I need to add them slowly and build up to the concentrations that I need?
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Old 08-22-2005, 07:13 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frozenoak
I am aware that rapid changes to an aquarium is hard on fish. When I get my ferts from Greg Watson should I immediately dump the required amount into the tank or do I need to add them slowly and build up to the concentrations that I need?
How much of what are you planning on adding?

Bill
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Old 08-22-2005, 09:26 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Into a 60 gallon tank with about 3" of substrate (a mix of gravel and plant substrate);

KNO3, 7grams
KH2PO4, 0.5g
K2SO4, 3.5g
CaCl2, 18g
MgSO4.7H20, 10g
CMS+B with extra iron, 0.35g

Dosed every other day. Macros and micros on opposing days. 50% water change on the weekend.

This is all subject to change so if I am completely off please let me know.

Last edited by frozenoak; 08-22-2005 at 09:30 AM..
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Old 08-22-2005, 10:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frozenoak
Into a 60 gallon tank with about 3" of substrate (a mix of gravel and plant substrate);

KNO3, 7grams
KH2PO4, 0.5g
K2SO4, 3.5g
CaCl2, 18g
MgSO4.7H20, 10g
CMS+B with extra iron, 0.35g

Dosed every other day. Macros and micros on opposing days. 50% water change on the weekend.

This is all subject to change so if I am completely off please let me know.
KNO3 and KH2PO4 levels seem fine. As for the CSM+B, - make sure you are following the instructions for making a liquid solution (I overdosed this once but everything survived even the shrimp which are most sensitive). Why are you dosing the other products? You sound like you're following an EI plan which doesn't call for anything else usually???????? I assume from your dosing schedule that you are doing CO2 and 2.5 plus wpg.

Good luck, Bill
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Old 08-22-2005, 10:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frozenoak
Into a 60 gallon tank with about 3" of substrate (a mix of gravel and plant substrate);

KNO3, 7grams
KH2PO4, 0.5g
K2SO4, 3.5g
CaCl2, 18g
MgSO4.7H20, 10g
CMS+B with extra iron, 0.35g

Dosed every other day. Macros and micros on opposing days. 50% water change on the weekend.

This is all subject to change so if I am completely off please let me know.
That seems like a lot to drop into the tank 3x a week! You probably have about 50g of actual water in the tank. According to the Fertilator, each dose would give you:

~23ppm of NO3
~1.8ppm of PO4
~23ppm of K
~35ppm of Ca
~5ppm of Mg

These seems more like weekly totals to me unless you have a lot of light over the tank! I would cut back on the KNO3 and KH2PO4 dosing. 2gm of KNO3 (6.5ppm) and 0.25gm of KH2PO4 (0.92ppm) 3x a week. I probably would not use the K2SO4 at all unless I used it at the water change.

Unless you have really soft water you probably don't need to add the Ca and Mg to the tank either.
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Old 08-22-2005, 10:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm glad you asked about the ferts then. I do have a lot of light (about 4.3wpg) and I am running pressurized CO2. My watter is very hard (KH 180ppm, GH 300ppm) so I guess that means I don't need the Ca and Mg. So now I am at;

KNO3, 2gm
KH2PO4, 0.25gm
Dosed 3X a week

CMS+B with extra iron (How much of this should I use?)
Dosed as a liquid on days opposite to macros.

and the fish will be cool with this?

Thanks,
dale

P.S. I don't have a single test kit. What test kits should I be looking at getting?

Last edited by frozenoak; 08-22-2005 at 10:55 AM..
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Old 08-22-2005, 12:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I think most folks mix up 1 tablespoon of CSM+B with 250ml of water and dose according to tank size. I dose 15ml of this solution in my 75g tank with about 2.75wpg.

As far as test kits, it is very important that you get a good pH and KH kit if you are using CO2. Some will suggest you get a NO3 and PO4 kit also. The beauty of EI is that you don't need to test your NO3 and PO4 levels. You already know that you are adding a certain amount of each fertilizer each week. This amount is over and above what the tank should be using for the week. Half of what remains at week's end is taken from the tank with the 50% water change and you simply start over adding the ferts again.

You can always add slightly more of KNO3 and KH2PO4 than recommended, there is no set amount. Play with it and see how the plants grow. Just try and only change one thing at a time and give it a week or two to see results before you change something else.

The fish should be fine with your dosing...
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Old 08-23-2005, 09:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatPat
The beauty of EI is that you don't need to test your NO3 and PO4 levels.
You can always add slightly more of KNO3 and KH2PO4 than recommended, there is no set amount. Play with it and see how the plants grow.
How do you proceed without test kits?

Thank you
Edward
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Old 08-24-2005, 03:37 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You simply don't test. It's quite easy to not test.

http://www.barrreport.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1

I believe you have referred to it as the dump and flush method many times Edward

Last edited by MatPat; 08-24-2005 at 03:39 AM..
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Old 08-24-2005, 03:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Edward,

If you do a 50% water change every week then you can always estimate mathematically what the maximum levels are in the tank. You can do the math by hand or enter the formulas in a spreadsheet.

For example if you start with a mythical dose of 10grams (for math simplicity)of something per week. You then divide that by 2 (50% water change) which equals 5. Then you're adding 10 again the second week = 15. After WC =7.5 then adding 10 = 17.5. After WC 17.5/2= 8.75 +10 =18.75/2=9.375+10=19.375/2= etc., etc.

You can see from the formula that if you carry it out far enough you max out at just below twice the amount you dose at. The only other twist is that in the real world you'll be lower because of plant uptake but if you are dosing on the high side this doesn't become an issue.

Hope this helps, Bill

You can use the same mathematical ideas with other dosing and water change percentages but 50% water change seems like the simplest.
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