meredymae

Mollies like a little added salt. I haven't ever kept them nicely without it.

Jimbo205

The single mother to all of my mollies was a Silvertail Lyretail Mollie that I purchased about 1 - 2 years ago.

I had only wanted one attractive fish in my tank when one day I found out that she was a mommy.

My children loved it.

I have been nanny to all offspring.

I even purchased sponge filter to put over incoming water tube to protect the fry from being sucked up.

I find that it helps with food also. Instead of sucking up the flake food, it gives the fish one last place to pick off the last flakes.

jaybird002

For low tech planted tanks, we are advised not to change the water or siphon the gravel too often. Does this adversely affect water quality, which is so essential to fish health. How do I strike a balance? What signs do I look for regarding fish health?

Also, should I try to set up a quarantine tank without a heater? Or would the day to night temperature change guarantee a sick fish? What is the minimum container/heater setup for a quarantine tank? I have one 29 gallon community planted tank and do not want to expand to more tanks.

JanS

Many people just use a 10 gallon tank that you can pick up for less than $10 at places like Wal-mart.
It doesn't have to be elaborate, or permanent. You can get by with the tank, some sort of filter (even a sponge filter) or something that will give you water movement in the tank, a heater, a few live plants, and some sort of cover for the fish so they feel more secure.

I would definitely use a heater and keep the temp set at the same as you'll have your main tank, or even perhaps a little higher. Things like ich will take much longer to run through the life cycle in cooler temps.
For a 10 gallon tank, a 50 watt heater would be about right.
You're also right that big swings would be very stressful to fish who are already stressed from being caught, bagged and transported, so to keep the temp consistent would help get them off to a much better start.

nosoop4u246

Simply put, yes it affects the water quality, but not the common killers like ammonia and nitrite that people worry so much about. Going long periods of time without a water change in a well planted tank will lead to most of the dissolved minerals being removed as a result of plant and fish growth, meaning the water's buffer against pH change, the fish's ability to osmoregulate, respire, and fight off infections, and the plants' abilities to grow properly, will all be negated. Things like calcium, magnesium, carbonates, etc. in the water will be depleted rapidly, and unless you're removing the low-mineral water and replacing it with mineral-rich water (most tap water), or adding minerals straight to the tank (dosing epsom salt, putting some calcaerous material in the tank like coral, calcite, shells, limestone, marble, etc.), everything living in the tank will suffer. I doubt that you're being advised to not change the water, just informed that your maintenance can be far more lax than in a fish-only tank.

essabee

Three more common causes of death, 1) Contaminated food, 2) flow traps from filters, vacum etc. 3) Faulty live wires.

Greenthums

What great advice for beginners. I had one of those "duh" moments when I read the keep water temp close to tank temp on water changes. Mine have been close but no cigar. Thanks

GrandePippo

The last time a fish died in my tank the reason was too much carbon dioxide. I do not remeber exactly how much the Ph dropped and how much ppm CO2 I had in the tank. What was for sure is a group of 12 lemon tetras left this world that day.

JanS

Sorry to hear that GrandePippo. You're right, it does sometimes happen and if you see the fish gasping at the surface, you know it's time to either turn down the C02 or add an airstone to bring the conditions back to a more comfortable state for them.