Tex Gal

Did you see this thread? It basically does the same thing but is outside the tank.

theblondskeleton

Which one?

Tex Gal

You are so picky!!! You actually want me to supply the thread!? lol Just kidding! Sorry. I guess I forgot to put the link in. Not much help am I?

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...2-reactor.html

It's looking nice. Glad you are winning the algae battle.

yikesjason

I am no flow expert, I have 2 ugly power heads in my 125. But some options I can suggest are;
- move the spray bars to a lower point on the back wall to get flow across the bottom of the tank.
- use something like loc-line ends to get more water movement
- use a powerhead that looks nicer like a koralia

As for the mixed colored tubes, you can spray paint them all black. A lot of people us Krylon paint on those parts and don't see any ill effects on the plants or fish.

theblondskeleton

So here’s what I’ve done today.

I knew I wanted an external reactor for the tank, and I remembered seeing a thread about one here a while back, so I popped into the DIY forum and presto! There in the stickies was an ancient thread describing an inexpensive DIY reactor!!!

I decided that getting the reactor off the ground was my first priority, as I know I don’t want anything to do with CO2 deficiencies. Here’s what I did:



I did not want to buy 10 feet of PVC (plus it would not fit into my car) so I purchased a 2 foot length of ABS, as it was all Home Depot had. Not a problem. I like the black, though I would prefer the clear PVC. Below is a semi-exploded view of my components.



I modified and adapted freely from the many plans I found. I had a few components at the house that I threw in, including the small ceramic diffuser, a brass needle valve, and a couple of elbows (the inadvertent result of a necessary on-the-spot improvisation at Home Depot - they didn’t have a part I needed)

I wanted this thing to be as efficient as possible, so I decided to include the ceramic diffuser in the reaction chamber to start the bubbles a small as possible. I realize the reactor is a little shorter than it could be (the ASB pipe is 12” long), and I wanted to give the CO2 a head start. I attached it by drilling a 3/8” hole in the side of the pipe and screwing in the needle valve. A 3/4” length of rhinox tubing is attached to the nipple, and the sleeve anchors it on the inside much like a nut. The diffuser is attached to the end of the tubing, and voila! It can be changed out or cleaned as needed.



I wanted to make sure I could clean out the muck when I needed to, so I bought two bushings: one at 1 ¾” and one at ¾”.

Yes, that is a wine bottle cork at the top. Yes, I’m ok with that.

For now.

I’ll need to find a threaded plug for that. Next trip, I promise. The cork will do for now.

It’s still curing right now, so I won’t know how leaky it will be until later.

The smart thing is that I made sure that the important parts are replaceable, removable, and easy to clean. I can unscrew the bits and clean each part easily. The only parts that are cemented together are the pipe, sleeve, reducing T and plug. Everything else can be changed out if I like.

Eventually, I’m going to pick up a set of the Magnum quick-disconnect valves so I can remove it easily.

Next up, I’ll rig the spray bar. Now, I have a few ideas about this. Anyone with feedback can chime in here. I’ll appreciate any point of view that may shed light on something I don’t know or have overlooked.



1. Both canisters into the CO2 reactor.
2. XP3 alone.
*. Power head attached to spray bar.

The Tim Taylor in me says "1+*" “MORE POWER!” and “plug it all in!” This is because I’m afraid of losing any flow with so many things hooked up to the XP3 alone. I think the power head will take some pressure off the filter and get the water moving as it comes out. With a full-length spray bar, I think it will be evenly distributed across the tank. I want circulation, but not monsoon season. Plus, I’m concerned I might blow something up with all the pressure running through the return cycle.

Then there’s #2. If that’s good enough, then that’s good enough. If not, I could add the power head for a "2+*". I still don’t want to burn out my XP3.

So, The options are 1, 1+*, 2, and 2+*.

Currently, I’m leaning toward "2+*". It seems like it takes care of a couple problems, but it does leave me with some unsightly equipment in the tank. Plus, with the Jebo freed up, I’ll have space under the tank to get more organized and less tubing.

I don’t know. My brain aches. That’s all for me today.

rjfurbank

I'd go w/ #2--you should only need to run the reactor off one of the canisters. This is what I do in my 90g (I have 2 x 2217 Eheims and run my CO2 reactor off one and my UV--when needed--off the other).

I was concerned about flow in my tank as well and ran w/ a Koralia for awhile but I think I got the one that was too big and it blew things around alot. I have experimented w/ placing my drop checker at different points in the tank but was unable to see a difference. Right now I am just running the two filters w/out any additional flow and it seems to be ok.

Also--is your UV inline before the canister? I always try to run mine after one of the filters to keep it from getting too gunked up.

Let us know what you decide and how it turns out. Tank is looking great btw--love the HC among the rocks.

theblondskeleton

Thanks again, Roy. I run my UV before the canister. I haven't had any trouble with it gunking up. Last I opened it (to change the lamp), it was the cleanest piece of equipment In my system, so I'm not worried.

As for the HC, I'm a little worried about the algae, but I think it's getting under control. I reduced the lighting and increased CO2, as I had a small explosion of BBA. It stopped in its tracks, and I believe it's retreating, but I think my pH controller needs re-calibration. Patience, patience.

I like the idea of a koralia to help with flow. It seems to be a good solution, if I can dial in the right size. I've seen needle wheel reactors in the forums (I think the thread to which Tex Gal was referring) where people have used them in line with XP3's. I think Minsc has or had a setup like that. I may do that as it keeps the pump out of the tank, and I'll be able to remove the Jebo.

theblondskeleton

Long story short (too late) I had some leak issues with the brass needle valve, and decided it was just easier to replace it with a PVC quick-disconnect elbow than to try to work it out. It makes more sense anyhow. Plus, I got the proper plumbing for the top. It is amazing the difference. I'm getting nearly 100% dissolution of CO2 and it's silent and pretty. pH is stabilized more consistently, and that is helping me with the algae issues I was having. Here's how she looks:





Algae is almost completely gone. Too much light and unstable CO2. Fixed.

Algae: 177,263, Me: 1.

yikesjason

It is looking really great.

theblondskeleton

HA! Who needs links? Thanks Tex Gal!

And yikesjason! By the way, you mentioned earlier Krylon? Hmmm... Even the flat finish? I wouldn't want it glossy, as the shiny would defeat the purpose... I'll experiment, I'd just hate to kill the kids, ya know.

Consequently, one of the koi angels died. I had some sort of contamination issue. I'm really not sure what it was. I tested for everything I could think of. It nearly killed all the fish in my 25 gallon tank, but fortunately only took the one. He will be missed
The others are recovering well, if a little tattered. I just wish I knew what got into the water. It took two full water changes to get whatever it was out.