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Large Aquariums and Ponds Discuss your extra large sized aquariums and ponds in this forum.

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Old 09-05-2006, 06:00 PM   #31 (permalink)
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The large connectors between the valves and the 2-1/2" PVC body of the UV unit function as unions. This allows me to pull the body of the UV unit without any trouble at all, which I've already done once to solve a minor leak.
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Old 09-05-2006, 06:06 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Looks great Bryce! I really like the time you put into the setup, I think setting up the tank is half the fun.

Any plans for your stocklist? Altums and Congo's maybe?
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Old 09-05-2006, 09:25 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Setting up the tank is definiately half of the fun - maybe more since I've been thinking about this project for several years.

I would like to try altums someday, but I think I'll wait to try them in a taller tank - maybe a 30" or 36" cube.

For this tank, congo tetras are the fish of choice. I'm thinking about a school of 12 to 16 congos, 30 or so rummies, 6 or 8 small corries (pandas?), and a few other unobtrusive "personality" fish like some German rams. Congos are definately at their best in a big tank where they are the dominant species. I might throw in a few threadfin 'bows too or maybe I'll just keep a few of them in the 46g tank. They've become one of my favorites.

I'll probably eventually transition someday to a school of praecox bows, some harlequins, and a few other species that I've been meaning to try. I'd also like to get back into angel breeding at some point with some true-breeding silvers (the only angels worth having, IMO). Can you imagine 100 little angels with their parents in a heavily planted 180?
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Old 09-08-2006, 08:50 PM   #34 (permalink)
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From plumber to electrician........

A big pile of boxes showed up yesterday from UPS with all the lighting components. It was just like Christmas. The first thing was to figure out how to position everything. The AGA 180g has 2 cross-braces at the top, leaving 3 equally sized openings. The MH's are centered over these. I mounted each reflector to the 1x4 using a stack of washers to create an air gap between the reflector and the wood. Maybe this wasn't necessary, but it makes me feel better to have the hot metal away from the wood.

The 150W MH's are from a retrofit electronic ballast kit from hellolights.com. Their service and packaging were fantastic. Everything arrived in perfect condition. They even threw in a "freebie" which was actually something useful. If you order from them, call on the phone. They threw in some extra cable at no extra cost.

Once the 3 MH reflectors were in place it was time to position the T-5's. This is a 4x39W Tek retrofit kit from reefgeek.com. Again, I was very happy with the service and the packaging was even better than hellolights'. A phone call was also a good idea here, since I needed to make sure the cables would be long enough. They supplied plenty.

The rat's nest of cables was a bit daunting at first. It really paid off to label everything which simplified hooking up the ballasts later.




I constructed a small shelf inside the cabinet to get the big MH ballasts up off the floor. I used tons of plastic wire brackets to keep things organized. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.



The three electronic MH ballasts are on the shelf and the two T-5 electronic ballasts are mounted to the back wall. After all this it was time to see if I got smoke or light........ Voila, to my surprise, everything lit perfectly on the first try.



You can see from the photo that there is a little light spillage out of the canopy top, but it isn't that noticable in person. You can also see that more of the driftwood is now sunken. At this point, the few pieces that are still floating will be easily held down by some rockwork. The release of tannins is still occurring, but at a much slower pace now.

The 20 lb CO2 cylinder is in place and I'm just waiting for the regulator now. Next on the agenda...... connecting the remaining Eheim 2217, installing one more power strip, configuring the timers, installing the black background, adding one final bag of Ecco complete (12 total), scouting around for some good rocks, installing the 105g reservoir in the room behind, giving everything a good cleaning, and...... finally......doing a little scaping.
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Old 09-08-2006, 09:25 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Nice progress and great oraganization under the tank. How long have you been soaking the wood?
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Old 09-09-2006, 08:44 AM   #36 (permalink)
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The wood has been soaking for a little over a week now, if I remember correctly. I've seen that it takes 2-3 weeks to really stay down nicely so it's about what I expected.
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Old 09-09-2006, 11:24 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Is the water just normal room temperature? I soaked mine in a tank for about 4 weeks now, no sign of sinking.
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Old 09-09-2006, 12:31 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Nice work Bryce! Question, what type of wire did reefgeek supply for the T5 lighting?

The wood does take a few weeks to fully soak, though it never gets real heavy. Mine has been submerged for over a year and if I drain 50% of the water it falls over. It is actually worse wet than dry as when the bottom half is still underwater, it has a little bouyancy and falls over easier than when dryscaping. I am going to try some underwater epoxy to stabalize mine. Trying to stabalize wiht rocks does not last as over time, everything settles out under water.

Keep up the journal, its great!
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Old 09-09-2006, 04:58 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Turtlehead,

The water was at about 60F for the first few days and at 75F once I got the heaters installed.

Dennis,

Both the T-5's and the 150W MH's came with 18 AWG insulated single-strand copper wire. It's a little stiff, but easy enough to work with. Stripping the wire and connecting into the ballasts and T-5 bases was simple. So far, every connection is solid.

BTW, I LOVE metal halides. They light up slowly, which avoids the nuclear blast that always scares the fish in the other tank. The way the light shimmers provides a fantastic effect, and they seem to penetrate all the way down to the substrate quite well. The 450W of MH = 2.50 wpg with an additional 0.87 wpg from the T-5's. Total is 3.37 wpg.

I have 4 wpg over my 46g bowfront, but the lights are spiral CF's. There is absolutely no comparison between the setups. I'd estimate the 4 wpg is more like 1.5 wpg when compared to what I have with this tank. It's amazing that I've done as well as I have with so little light. It probably explains why the P. stellatus and L. 'cuba' never did so well.
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Old 09-09-2006, 05:07 PM   #40 (permalink)
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18 guage, nice. I know that is what the ballast manufacturers spec but I could never find it locally. I ended up using 16guage when I wired my 50 and I often thought about it afterwards. Good for you.
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