joephys

The lights right at high frequencies. I suppose it could be possible that there are some reflections in the ballast that send high frequency voltage back to the electronic timer that it can't handle. I doubt that that is the cause, but it was a thought that came to mind.

detlef

As for my wiring I'm inclined to say it's more a problem of magnetic/electrical pulses going down the lines than pulling too much power.

Can some one please think of/explain a way how reflections from ballasts back into (light) timers could be avoided? My electrical skills and knowledge is very limited so please keep it simple.

Thanks for your reply,
Detlef

TWood

I've gone through several Intermatic timers, I thought I was just unlucky. The last one to fry wasn't even used for the lights but was on the same powerstrip as the light timer. An Icecap MH ballast started tripping the GFCI breaker. The first time it did that, the separate timer for the CO2 solenoid went nuts and stayed useless - it just blinks and says the battery is dying.

That was one of the newer style digital timers with the flip cover over the buttons. I thought I'd try that style since so many of the other style had died. But since the flip-cover stye is such a PITA to use, and it's no better at this, I'll probably switch back.

I am also trying a heavy duty three-prong mechanical style with the little trippers, but those are not very accurate IMO. Mine can be off the set time as much as 30+ minutes before it finally trips the switch. The mechanism has too much play in it.

essabee

I have had huge numbers of electrical failures especially in the presence of water or strong magnetic fields.

Water vapour is the main culprit; it is all pervading, especially in fluctuating temperature in or around the aquarium hood.

Most digital electronics are unstable in the presence of strong magnetic fields. Ballasts produce strong magnetic fields, even some radio waves.

I prefer to keep all electronic items away from the aquarium hood, duly covered with an aluminum cover, suitably grounded to the earth. The output of the timer should run a relay system instead of the actual gadget, and the relays run the gadgets. Relays chosen according to the ampere requirement of the gadget run.