229oz

I just inherited a 55 gallon set up with 3 110 watt VHO bulbs that used to be from a reef set up. I have set this up with a forced co2 system.
My questions are...
What are the best VHO bulbs to grow plants?
Is this too much light considering the co2 system?
Should I be using liquid fertilizers or are they a waste?
Thanks!

alexperez

With 330 watts over a 55G you are going to have a hard time keeping nutrients in balance. And Pressurized CO2 is a must. I have 324W over my 55G (its only temporary) and If my CO2 levels falls below 25ppm or my ferts are not dosed daily I get algae outbreak in a few days. That tank is a nutrient hog, it eats up about 7ppm of NO3 and .5-1.0 ppm of PO4 daily. I have to do a 50% water change every 3 days or algae start appearing (no idea why this happens). and I have to trim some of the plants every couple of days since the growth is so rapid.

I would run only 2 of those bulbs.

Raul-7

1) Anything between 4500K-10000K is sufficient for all plants; plants can adapt to a wide variety of conditions and bulb color falls under this. Bulb color is a matter of personal choice, the range above varies slightly by the color it gives off; 4500K being the most yellow, while 10000K the purest white (ie. mix of 6700K and 8800K or 10000K bulbs are ideal choices). The only exception is the 9325K bulb which gives off a pinkish hue, but this bulb isn't available in VHO format. Although you can also use NO bulbs with VHO ballasts if you wanted to, but this would cause a shorter lifespan of the bulb.

2) 330W of VHO lighting is quite punch of light. In these circumstances conditions can become unstable, and fast. With this much light you're on a fine line between perfectly balanced aquarium and disaster. I recommend you go with 220W of VHO, that would be more than enough light; but remember the most important factor is to have even lighting coverage which can be accomplished using good reflectors. Parabolic shaped is what you're looking for, but make sure they spread the light evenly rather than just concentrate it at that specific position.

3) You can go with an all dry-dose schedule, but most people find that when dosing for Fe and traces (ie. Flourish, TMG) liquid is the best solution. While for macros (N-P-K) dry is the cheapest method to use. And with 220W of light you'll need to be dosing daily, an automatic doser might be a smart investment.

niko

If your ballast is IceCap then three 110 watt bulbs will not produce 330 watts of light.

This tank has 2 URI AquaSun VHO bulbs, the 110 watt ones and an IceCap ballast. I estimate that the actual light output is about 150 watts and I'm even inclined to think it's less. (2 of my tanks of the same size that have 110 watt of power compact appear brighter...)

You can find details on that peculiar fact about IceCap ballast on the net.

Because of the above if you indeed use IceCap ballast you will be fine with 3 x 110 watt VHOs. If you actually have 330 watts of light then you better watch the tank very closely, especially the first 2 months.

--Nikolay

Breadhead

I currently run 3x48"x110W bulbs over a 75 tank. My hood is hommade, and the reflector is almost nonexistant, so I guess I get alot of spillage... My plants are very healthy and don't have any probs with CO2 (am using pressurised injection) I dose daily, alternating Macro/Micro and do a 30% once a week. I really enjoy hassle free, beautiful plants along with my discus.