| New to Planted Aquariums Don't know where to begin? Find your answer here. |  | |
10-19-2008, 09:43 PM
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#21 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Lexington, Kentucky
Posts: 106
Plant Points: | Re: New Tank Setup Guide - Parts 1 and 2 Thanks Bert for taking the time and trouble to provide this very helpful information. I especially like your pictures of planted tanks. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. Well done! |
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11-15-2008, 10:41 PM
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#22 (permalink)
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11
Plant Points: | Re: New Tank Setup Guide - Parts 1 and 2 |
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11-27-2008, 04:41 PM
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#23 (permalink)
| | Guest
Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Spokane, Washington, USA
Posts: 121
Plant Points: | Re: New Tank Setup Guide - Parts 1 and 2 So...is the upshot of this that one cannot have a lightly planted tank? I know that Walstad likes to constantly emphasize how plants can outcompete algae. But if I have to have wall-to-wall plants just in order to stop algae, that sort of limits my aquascaping. The image of a tank that got me interested in this hobby were Takashi's. Some of his tanks are very minimalist, but are they all "for show" and not really balanced and sustainable tanks without alot of gimmicks and gadgetry? |
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12-05-2008, 02:55 PM
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#24 (permalink)
| | Guest
Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Spokane, Washington, USA
Posts: 121
Plant Points: | Re: New Tank Setup Guide - Parts 1 and 2 Quote: |
Next make sure your carbon source is good, either via CO2 or Excel. Fertilize right from the beginning so your plants have all they need to get off to a good start. Personally, I would start with half the fert levels on day 1, bringing my levels up to full level before the end of the week and my first water change. Subsequently, I would dose normally.
| Hi. I gradually make my way (often circuitously) to all the different aspects of plant-keeping. I had heard/seen about Flouish many times but had more pressing stuff on mind. But in re-reading the above (first post actually on this thread), got interested when it was mentioned that Excel could be used as a CO2 alternative. I am always looking for ways to avoid big high-pressure cylinders! 
So I went to the Seachem website and read about all the three Flourish items. Sounds like Excel might help me but I also noted that it seems to kill Vallisnerias and Elodea. Is this the case with y'all?
Thanks, g
Last edited by gasteriaphile; 12-05-2008 at 03:16 PM..
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12-05-2008, 09:53 PM
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#25 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Pittsburgh area iTrader Positive Rating: 100% Plant Points: | Re: New Tank Setup Guide - Parts 1 and 2 Excel can be used as an alternative to carbon dioxide injection - I've done so in nano tanks (10 gallons or less). I haven't really tried it as a complete substitution to CO2 in larger tanks, mainly because it would get pretty expensive over time. An injected CO2 system would be more cost-effective (and easier to automate) in the long run.
I haven't used Excel with Valisineria or Elodea myself, but I have heard that they do affect them from other posts on the site.
With your question about not being able to have a lightly planted tank - you certainly can but it will be more difficult to get a 'balance' and avoid algae outbreaks. The more densely a tank is planted and the more consistent your maintenance routine is, the more likely you will have success with your aquarium. If you look at some of the scapes on the site, it's certainly not wall-to-wall with all stem plants reaching the ceiling. Most of good scapes have large plant masses if you look closely, with the perception of depth created by the placement and selection of plants. Even 'minimalist' Iwagumi scapes have a decent amount of plant mass covering the tank.
Take a look at the AGA video on the site with Amano creating an aquascape. The plant mass is dense, but depth and texture are created by placement as well as selection of plants. |
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12-26-2008, 09:28 AM
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#26 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Miami, South Beach
Posts: 252
Plant Points: | Re: New Tank Setup Guide - Parts 1 and 2 on the contrary CO2 injection gets cheaper over time as you only have to buy the equipment once and take care of it. depending on how big your tank is decides how big you want you cylinder to be. i use a 5lb on my 55gal (recently moved to 75) but it lasted me 6 months and only costs 10-11 dollars to refill at any welding supply shop. excel gets expensive especially if your dosing in larger tanks. as it goes very fast. but also light is very important. if you keep it in the proper light range you should be able to maintain healthy plant growth without CO2. the plants just wont grow as fast but with CO2 they will explode in growth. |
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12-26-2008, 09:30 AM
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#27 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Miami, South Beach
Posts: 252
Plant Points: | Re: New Tank Setup Guide - Parts 1 and 2 im sorry hooha i miss read what you said about the excel and CO2 injection. so after reading what i said we are both in agreement.  |
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01-12-2009, 10:18 AM
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#28 (permalink)
| | Member
Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Staten Island, NY
Posts: 85
Plant Points: | Re: New Tank Setup Guide - Parts 1 and 2 Beautiful Tanks!
I'm looking to put down enough substrate to start a 72 gallon bow front aquarium. I would like to do dense vegetation like some of these images but find that the Eco-Complete is an expensive substrate to use over the entirety of my tank. Any reccommendations on an affordable resource to use?
Also, My tank will hous3e some Oscars and some bass. Any type of plants I should avoid with these species'?
Finally, where can I go about purchasing my light and CO2 systems for a reasonable price? I'm in NY but am very savvy with internet ordering.
Thanks everyone! |
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01-12-2009, 11:46 AM
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#29 (permalink)
| | Guest
Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Spokane, Washington, USA
Posts: 121
Plant Points: | Re: New Tank Setup Guide - Parts 1 and 2 Quote:
Originally Posted by BassMan Beautiful Tanks!
I'm looking to put down enough substrate to start a 72 gallon bow front aquarium. I would like to do dense vegetation like some of these images but find that the Eco-Complete is an expensive substrate to use over the entirety of my tank. Any reccommendations on an affordable resource to use? | Dear Bass, I just set up my first aquarium (as opposed to a "betta bowl" where I used some natural coarse sand) using Flourite. This tank was/is only 4 gallons, which I think is good to note. But with regard to a less expensive substrate for you, I was surprised by the look and nature of Flourite. I had never seen it before, much less worked with it. IMO a significant portion of the constituents of Flourite is a fired, calcined-clay (sometimes called, generically, "turface"). Hence I believe you could use "turface" as your substrate or mix it in with another material if you believed you need something else in addition to the turface (this other material being more expensive but having some minerals you deed necessary). The turface "stretches" your expensive substrate. If you do not much care for the look of turface, you could then cover it with a thin layer of some other material for appearance only. Hope this helps, BB |
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02-09-2009, 10:18 AM
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#30 (permalink)
| | Member
Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Staten Island, NY
Posts: 85
Plant Points: | Re: New Tank Setup Guide - Parts 1 and 2 Quote:
Originally Posted by gasteriaphile Dear Bass, I just set up my first aquarium (as opposed to a "betta bowl" where I used some natural coarse sand) using Flourite. This tank was/is only 4 gallons, which I think is good to note. But with regard to a less expensive substrate for you, I was surprised by the look and nature of Flourite. I had never seen it before, much less worked with it. IMO a significant portion of the constituents of Flourite is a fired, calcined-clay (sometimes called, generically, "turface"). Hence I believe you could use "turface" as your substrate or mix it in with another material if you believed you need something else in addition to the turface (this other material being more expensive but having some minerals you deed necessary). The turface "stretches" your expensive substrate. If you do not much care for the look of turface, you could then cover it with a thin layer of some other material for appearance only. Hope this helps, BB | I wound up going with 7 bags (105 lbs.) of flourite with a thin layere of pebble sized gravel on top for protection of the flourite. Thanks for the advice! |
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