Streambank paludarium - Page 4 - Paludariums

bratyboy2 · 10-26-2009, 12:10 AM

update? did u get your riccia ur fish?

HX67 · 10-28-2009, 09:06 PM

Thanks for your interest, Brad.
Had lousy luck with the Riccia I was supposed to get and had to settle for a small clump for starters.
Enough to realise that it will not grow on the bank, not humid enough for it with the open front.
No additional fish yet.

I did find nice lighting fixtures I'm going with for now: two 3 x 28w T5 fixtures that are 4 feet each. Fits the tank like a glove. Adds up to 170w, I don't know if it's enough for the water plants.
Got 6 x 6500K tubes, looks good enough for me. Still trying to figure out how to rig some halogen spots for effect.

I'll take some shots of the plants I'm experimenting with, as soon as the vegetation settles in a bit.
A shipment of airplants (Tillanzia) is on the way as well.

I'll be back with a photo update.

fishyerik · 10-31-2009, 07:00 AM

This is the first time ever I've seen artificial tank decorations worth the space in the tank, and it's much better than just that. I absolutely recommend trying selling some at prices that make you blush, perhaps also complete systems with grown plants at even higher prices of course.

Now for the fish, every millimeter of edge makes a little difference in risk of them jumping out. Floating plants or other plants growing in the surface reduce the risk. Strong current near the edge highly increase risk of jumping in all fish that can jump, and will make most species of cyprinids leave the paludarium within 24h if the distance from surface to the edge of the glass isn't greater then at least a third of the fishes total length, thats nowhere near a guarantee you won't have jumpers thou.

I think two or three 70 watts metal halide spots with a really narrow beam mounted in the ceiling would be great.

Small parts, no whole tufts, of Riccia is easy to grow on capillary mat on the bank, you don't need high humidity to start bits small enough so all of it have direct contact with the wet capillary mat, from there it adjusts to the humidity you have and grows very dense.

HX67 · 11-01-2009, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishyerik

This is the first time ever I've seen artificial tank decorations worth the space in the tank, and it's much better than just that. I absolutely recommend trying selling some at prices that make you blush, perhaps also complete systems with grown plants at even higher prices of course.

Thank you. I will take this advice under serious consideration. Anyone in need of something of this sort, private or institutional, please feel free to contact me...

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishyerik

Now for the fish, every millimeter of edge makes a little difference in risk of them jumping out. Floating plants or other plants growing in the surface reduce the risk. Strong current near the edge highly increase risk of jumping in all fish that can jump, and will make most species of cyprinids leave the paludarium within 24h if the distance from surface to the edge of the glass isn't greater then at least a third of the fishes total length, thats nowhere near a guarantee you won't have jumpers thou. .

True enough. The math is a bit complicated, so in the end I will just have to take my chances and try out a bit. I'm actually surprised that I haven't found any of the Y. cruciatuses on the floor yet. They are very active and do fast swims in the tank but don't seem to be jumping at all.
The water is about a half an inch below the edge of the glass, so not too much play there. I would love to have it about two mills, but it makes me very nervous to adjust it up there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishyerik

I think two or three 70 watts metal halide spots with a really narrow beam mounted in the ceiling would be great.

I know, I've got HQI in my 250 gallon brackish tank and I love them. In this tank the lighting is only 20 cm away from the closest plants and there is not an easy way to mount them higher, so I'm trying to do with T5 for now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishyerik

Small parts, no whole tufts, of Riccia is easy to grow on capillary mat on the bank, you don't need high humidity to start bits small enough so all of it have direct contact with the wet capillary mat, from there it adjusts to the humidity you have and grows very dense.

Remains to be seen how it goes. I mounted pieces of coco fiber matt along the waterline and am trying out what grows on it. Riccia still seems to be thinking whether to go for it or not.

A quick teaser of some of the established greenery:

Thanks.

bratyboy2 · 11-01-2009, 09:47 PM

not even fair!!!! this sucks give us a full view!!!

HX67 · 11-06-2009, 01:20 PM

Patience, dude. Let us grow in a bit.

A couple of airplants arrived today:

The Tillanzia usneoides was a nice surprise, I hope it does well in this setup.

mellowvision · 11-06-2009, 08:55 PM

nice. the medusae is really cool.

mellowvision · 11-06-2009, 08:56 PM

you might try mini pellia and HC along the water line. I've had good luck with both, but in fairly humid environments. they both take a really long time to grow in though. patience is key.

HX67 · 11-07-2009, 02:09 AM

Thanks, I like them also. I'm not sure if the T usneoides is alive...

Mini pellia is Monosolenium tenerum?
HC is Hemianthus callithricoides, no?
(Hard to keep up with abbreviations on your second language...)

Great suggestions, I will try to locate some of both and give them a go.
You have grown them emersed in closed terrariums?

mellowvision · 11-07-2009, 04:58 PM

yes, I'm growing both in my 5 gallon paludarium, mounted to the cork background. They both are doing well, but he HC spreads way way faster than the mini pellia.

Mini pellia is not the same as regular pellia (Monosolenium tenerum), and although I rarely see it referred to it's latin name, that name might be RICCARDIA CHAMEDRYFOLIA, but I am not positive. Mini pellia is considerably smaller than regular pellia. there are some great photos of it here http://www.flowgrow.de/biete-wasserp...tat-t4614.html