ddavila06

did you ever find out what was happening to ur plant????
i am having a similar issue... :

about a week and a half i did my water change and treated with excel afterwards as usual (1.5 the suggested dose or so), later that week i saw one coffefolia leaf melting and thought to myself "dang, must have hit the anubia straight up with excel..." yesterday i noticed some loose leaves so now while water changing i checked and noticed the rizhome (the end part with new leaves) is melting off.....doesnt look brown as in yours! i doubt is excel...any clues????.........

Newt

Rhizome disease/rot.

More ino here>
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...oking-bad.html

I have improved the health of what is left of my plant by cutting off affected parts and treating with excel. I have slowed the disease but the plant grows too slow to make good progress.

ddavila06

uhmm....interesting. dont know if its the same as this seemed to have started at the leaf and spread to the rizhome... and the rizhome stayed clear. regardless is good reading and i cut off the bad rizhome and will check again and cut more if needed. i hope it doesnt spread to other anubias in my tank......... Thanks!!!

Newt

Here's a picture of my coffeefolia in better days gone bye>

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Newt

Here's some more ifo on the blight>
http://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/ab...003.87.8.1005C

DeChaoOrdo

I am very fascinated by this. Do you have any of the affected rhizome left you'd be willing to send me so I could look at it under a microscope and try to bug the aquatic botanist at my work to have a look at?

Also, if you continue to have problems you might want to see if baking soda on the ends where the fungus was helps. I've used baking soda to treat black rot on plumeria cuttings with a good deal of success.

thefisherman

do i understand correctly that this is untreatable? is it contageous?! do i have to break down my nano?!


Sent from my iPhone

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Newt

No known cure. I have had luck removing all visible affected (brown) parts and drizzling Excel all over it and letting it sit for 2-3 mins before returning to the tank. As for contagious, I have an anubias nana petite and another 'coffefolia' I added about 3 months ago and both are unaffected.

kiddjam

Hi Newt


I concluded my Anubias got this disease from me introducing a cheap piece of wood-tighted nana, from a LFS, 3 Nana attached to drift wood covered with mosses, sh!tty dirt cheap. Because I am lazy first and the price is ok, so I bought two.
I wash a bit before I put them in the tank, and they just freaking drop leaves at the rate of 1 to 2 leaf daily after 3 days I put them in.
First I thought it was emersed form, but after a week or so, they freaking die off, I picked one up, the rhizome was melted, smell really really really bad... That is the start of all my Anubias problems.


MY tank condition/spec: 120 liter, CO2 two bubbles/Min, 80 watts of light 7200k-12000k, 25 Celsius, pH 6-7, Cabinet filter 800L/H Biological + 1300L/H pure Mechanical filtration.
Base material: ADA Amazonia New, ADA W & P, ADA Bacter 100, bogwood+stones.
Trust worthy stuffs: Seachem Prime, Stability, Excel, Paraguard, Cupramine, Matrix 1L.


I got Anubias Nana, Nana "Petite", Nana "Stardust", Nana "Golden", Nana "Round leaf", Anubias Congensis, Anubias Gracillis, Anubias Afzellis.
NEVER had an Anubias barteri Coffeefolia, but I wish I have one, before this disease thingy is fixed 4ever!!!!!!!!!!!


Bad news, they WILL be affected, especially small ones, I quarantine all my Anubias species, I got lots of(expensive) Nana Petite and nana stardust, and half of them die slowly within 16 days, I change the quarantine tank's water every two days.

My situation is kind of similar to yours and everyone else, it seems there are two conditions, either start rotting from root/rhizome, or from leaf.

I experience both at the same freaking time, I hate it.

Symptoms: mostly just melt away, became soft from leaf to stem, and some start dying from rhizome became like mush, you can sqeeze white melted tissue out from the rhizome tube.. desgusting and labor intensive just to maintain them.
I just remove the rest and now wish me luck.

I have now learnt so much from watching my precious Anubias Varieties dies and dies with no cure, much like cancer, oh BTW, I also have some freaking expensive Bucephalandra dies, also very small when purchased.

By watching all my Anubias, examine each one of them, by different species, I found that the following species are some how immune to the bacteria/disease/fungus: Anubias Congensis, Anubias Gracillis, Anubias Afzellis.

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I came up with some methods to detect the early sign of this cancer-like disease:
1> by visual inspections:
1A> relatively bigger white spot on stem base
1B> blowing-up-water-filled like stem and rhizome, specially stems
1C> brownish root tip, root spot, or soften new root
1D> brownish color on stem, even when the leaf is clean and looks ok or feel sturdy
1E> the back of the leaf, spotty/dotted leaf back/dorsal, losing lines
1F> transparent root
1G> no new bud or leaf growth in 10 days

2> by handling the plant:
2A> try to break the suspected rhizome, if it feels like non-fresh vegetable you bought from last week, your Anubias will soon to have problems
2B> pull the suspected leaf, if it's a non-firm leaf, it will not get back to its original position, and easy to pull away, this is a sign too
2C> touch/rub the rhizome with your fingers, if you feel it is sticky and can scrub off some green, clear or brownish crud, it is no good

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Last night, I use 100% bleach to sanitize the scissor, and to drown the trimmed anubias plants in for 10 seconds, and now let us wait for 3 days, see if things work out OK...

Hope it helps
Cheers

bamboosharkbark

Sounds Like you're using RO water? That can melt anubias, see this youtube video.

If the epidermis of submersed aquatic plants are damaged they become susceptible to fungi like r.solani which I believe was the culprit. If it was being melted by the RO water then it could enter the plant through any wounds from a weakened epidermis despite it being in it's submersed form. I read that in submersed form plants will not have functioning stomates, the stomata is usually the spot where a fungus like r. solani will enter when a plant is grown out of water. I think if the rhizome is burried, damaged or melted by RO water then the fungus can enter the plant because of openings in the epidermis.

Don't know what to make of this and I think the RO water may be to blame. KNO3 will usually smell bad won't it?

Check out some of the last posts in my emersed anubias thread. Ive referenced these findings to some journals so what I've said comes from those articles I researched.