Tampa-Terry

I'm starting my first planted tank.

120g + 42g sump
T5 lights -- 2.7wpg on display tank and 2.7wpg on sump
Fluorite-like substrate (by AquariumPlants.com Largest online sales / service site for the live aquarium plants community.)
Pressurized C02

I found the list of what I needed to order. I can get the following from Greg Watson:

Potassium Sulfate
Potassium Nitrate
Mono Potassium Phosphate
Magnesium Sulfate

I was reading the discussion on CSM and CMM. What would you recommend as far as Trace Minerals go? Is there anything else I need to get started with PPS?

What amounts of the fertilizers above should I purchase for a tank of my size?

I know LaMott Test Kits are some of the best on the market, but do I need that level of quality (at that price) for PPS? Rex Grigg recommends:

* Wardley's mid-range pH test kit
* Aquarium Pharmaceuticals gH and kH
* Red Sea nitrate and phosphate test kits

Will those meet my needs, or do you have anything else you'd recommend I look into?

If I am using AmQuel+ and NovAqua to condition my water, will that affect anything I'm doing in PPS? I know it means I need to use a salicylate testing method.

I'll keep reading fast and furiously. Please feel free to recommend articles, threads and resources if you think I'd benefit.

Display tank and sump will be on an alternate lighting schedule. The refugium portion of the sump will be planted. I was planning on injecting the CO2 into the refugium. The water would still need to pass through a sponge before being returned to the display tank. Will there still be appreciable/optimal levels of CO2 after having traveled through a sponge? My problem here is that if I inject CO2 into the display tank, I expect a lot of it would be lost as the water falls/drains from the display tank into the holding/receiving area of the sump. It's an odd question and an odd set-up, and I don't know if anyone has any experience in this regard. I may just have to play around with it until I get the numbers where I want 'em.

I'll be planting for function as much or more than art or beauty. I'm going to have 5 goldfish in the tank, and their health and well being is a priority to me. I probably won't need nitrate except for the first few weeks, before the fish are moved into their new accomodations. This leads into my question on pH. I read somewhere that there are nutrients that aren't available to aquatic plants (or that are but to a lesser degree) above a ph of 7.0, but goldfish probably do better around 7.4 and they prefer hard water. Could I get away with keeping my pH right at 7.0 and my water hard? I'm going to be doing my best to avoid selecting plants that prefer soft, acidic water.

Sorry for all the questions. I've been lurking, reading, and saving 'em up. (grin)

Dataseeker

I have seen this post here for several days now and did not want you think it was being ignored. Edward and others here can help with the specifics on dosing but I’ll offer the following with the hope it helps.

Your tank setup seems like it might have been used for marine species. It is unusual for planted aquariums. If you have decided to use the sump to grow plants as well, so be it. You will probably want to inject the CO2 into the return line to the display tank as the bulk of the plants will be there. There will be some dissolved CO2 in the flow returning to the sump. As you plan to use the tank for goldfish the environment will be somewhat tolerant to lower temperatures than that used for many tropical species. This will allow a greater choice of hard water tolerant plant types. I think this all fits with your plan and a sump type filter system.

Most of the aquarium hobbyist test kit manufacturers seem to make adequate products for our purposes. Three or more decimal place accuracy does not seem to be requirement we worry about. As a matter of fact if you follow the suggestion in the PPS documentation and calibrate whichever test kits you buy, you will find the inherent accuracy is much less than you might imagine for the measurements of macro nutrients. It all still works fine because you will be maintaining a “range” not exact numbers. PH readings are the exception. You will want to be fairly close with those. If you buy a Calcium test kit make sure it can be used for Freshwater. Many on the market are for Saltwater Only.

You are probably going to want to establish a “normal” range of nutrients for your plants to flourish. If you review the PPS documentation thoroughly it will guide you on getting this normal range started. Specific questions if posted here will be answered. It may take a few days, but be patient. When help comes it is detailed. Good luck with your efforts. It seems like you will do fine with all the reading and prep work you are doing. Keep us posted.

Tampa-Terry

Thank you, DataSeeker, for your reply and the information you provided! That was really helpful and much appreciated.

My tank was installed yesterday, so now the fun is about to begin. (grin) I'm almost ready to order my plants!!!

Non-standard setup for a planted tank, yes. I know. But it was done with intent, and I hired people with saltwater design experience to help me. The reason I bought a drilled tank is because from the beginning I was planning on using a sump to add more gallons to the system and because I wanted to plant some plants that actually prefer nitrates over ammonia in the refugium, where the goldfish couldn't get to 'em.

Once I have everything planted, I'll post pics.

Dataseeker

You will no doubt have an unusual tank setup. I and others will most certainly enjoy seeing the pictures when you post them. Have fun.