Originally Posted by TWood
Sorry to have to say it Tom, but I think this is terrible advice.
I think I've got more BBA issues solved than the average bear.
You'll note I did not suggest *only* this solution with Shrimp and SAE's.
CO2 was the main focus and is always the case with BBA as my advice on BBA goes back 10+ years and I've been correct about it for 10 years as well................
Amano shrimp and SAEs don't eat established BBA,
They will not hurt very well established BBA infestions, but they do prevent and can deal with mild ones. Correcting the environmental issues that induce BBA is the best method(poor CO2)
are ridiculously overpriced,
That's why we give our shrimps away here
The cherry's are quite breedable(so these are free) and several other folks here are giving away Amano's.
Group buys reduce the cost way down.
I trade weeds for shrimps and since I have a few tanks without fish, I have a large supply of live food for other non shrimp tanks(eg Altums).
SAE's are cheap.
and die/are eaten easily.
Depends on the tank and the livestock, I'll assume the poster knows not to put tiny critters in with big fish with big mouths.
Been there, done that, never again. Also, regarding driftwood, why introduce a problem that requires more management instead of not introducing the problem to begin with?
Err........ because we like driftwood in our tanks and like ferns and moss and anubias growing all over it? I have no issues with wood and BBA........most folks can manage that issue with wood.
It's my understanding that you are in San Fran where your primary water source is snowmelt. I think you need to work with other science types in other parts of the country/world with different water sources and see if some of your conclusions hold water. ;-/
Well, you just put your foot in your mouth.
I have one client in SF. The Bay area itself comprises over 6 completely different types and sources of tap water.
Marin where I lived for 15 years: high PO4, KH : 5, Gh 9.
SF: Almost RO like.
San Jose: KH 8, GH 12(depending, can go higher)
East Bay: KH 2, GH 1-3, PO4: 0.5ppm
We in sfbaaps/SFAS know our own water types and have discussed the differences for 15+ years now.
Next: I have lived elsewhere than the bay area, I lived in Santa Barabara for 2 years: GH 24, KH 12, PO4: zero.
Florida: 2 years: KH 3, GH 5, no PO4.
Sacramento CA: KH 2, GH 1 some times, KH 5, GH 8 others depending on the source/time of year.
APD past discussions ad nauseum comparing many folks tap waters and seeing how PO4 and other elements impacted their tank as well as the supposed notion of hard water soft preferences for plants.
I've been to dozens of aquarium societies and spoken to both Marine and Freshwater folks about plants. They tell me about their tap water and I ask.
I'm not keen on the plants needing "soft" water Bs that was all the rage 10-40 years ago. LFS's would sell aquarist RO systems for all sorts of things that really did not help in many cases and none in terms of plants.
I'm hardly the "ivory tower" intellectual.
This is practical long term experience going back to when I was kid.
No aquarist even considered RO in the 1970's.
In particular, I think that those of us with water from the limestone aquifers just have a different chemistry at work that you are not taking into account.
Are you insane?
Florida is all Karst(limestone), I grew up and kept fish and plants in IN, the same place that quarried the stone that built the Empire state building which is limestone as well as most of IU campus where I ran around as kid.
I just got back from taking 10 folks down no less than 4 clear hard limestone springs at plant fest. Santa Barbara's water source is Lake Cachuma which is fed by the Satna Ynez river through extremely high mineral desposit that make Lake Tangy and Malawi look like soft water systems(GH's in the river were 800ppm+ beyond the Lamotte kit's range, Cl's also).
I'd really like to see you work with other people in other parts of the country/world that have broad extremes of localized water parameters.
Well, you need but open thy eyeballs.
Bring your test kit and test all the folk's in the Bay area's tap.
We have a wide range, seasonal ranges.
We've been at that for many years/decades now.
It's not just me and I've asked folks these types fo questions for many years on many forums, mailing list and in person.
You've also posted about green dust algae (GDA) being hard to maintain in your tanks.
Man Tom, you are just making this too easy.
I lived in Santa Barbara when I first had my fiorst run with it, the tap is KH 12, GH 24.
Softer water in FL(KH 3, Gh 5), same deal.............
Both times, same thing.
That was easy to rule out as a correlation as my "success".
Many of us in the limestone aquifer areas of the country have the reverse experience. I think location is related to both the GDA and BBA issues and that you are missing that relationship unless you work with the water we are stuck with.
And you would be incorrect.
I have a very high success rate dealing with algae and helping folks.
There is a reason and it's not the tap water except in 2 cases(out of many thousands, but we stil found out why it had issues and one case had distribution copper pipes all over the places, the other was using saline well water) which if the first set of advice does not work, we go to step 2 and so on in a step wise manner.
No single post can address every thing unless it's a book. Even then, experience play a huge role.
I have a high respect for you and your work, but I think there's something about basic local water parameters that needs to taken into account. |
I do and have, I know very well what is and is not significant with respect to tap. Obviously...more than you know.
And I also know what applies to marine systems..........