>I just recently bought a new 90G DAS tank 36x18X31.
>1. Lights... I saw a 36" 192watts PC light in ebay. It will have a little more than 2watts per gallon.
>Is This enough.
It should be enough on a wattage basis, however, if 31 is the height of the tank, it might not be enough to reach the bottom of the tank at sufficient intensity. For a cool look, you could also consider a 250watt metal halide fixture. I bought fixtures from this place and had good results. You would want smaller ones than I used (400watt), I would recommend this 250watt retrofit kit
which will require a bulb (6500 or 10k) and you'll want to build a housing for it. The single point source light of MH creates a cool shimmering effect in the water. As long as you get an electronic balast (as opposed to a magnetic or pulse one) you can run any kind of MH lamp. The most important thing is to never touch the bulb when installing it or servicing the tank as the oil from your hands will cause it to heat unevenly and fail sooner. I built a nice housing for a 150watt one I put over my 60g 24" cube tank. I raised it 3.5" above the tank to reduce the intensity and heat transfer and it's been great. If you come to the next plant meeting, you can see it.
> 2. 30 gallon sump. Needed a pump that will circulate the tank more than 5 times of the water and
> will not heat the water to much.
Quiet1One pumps are well priced and if you absolutely must spend the least, they can be ok. However, I've had them fail in a variety of ways and can't really recommend them anymore. I just replaced my Quiet1One 9000 with a ReeFlo pump that is smaller and significantly quieter, plus it's direct-drive as opposed to magnetic impeller. Granted, it was nearly twice the price, but it's worth it compared to the headaches of the 9000 (doesn't like to restart after power failure for instance.) Get a pump that is rated higher than you need. The GPH rate drops off quickly the higher it has to pump the water, and the more plumbing bends it goes through. The pump I got says you can put a valve on the output line to restrict flow as necessary and it will actually consume less power when restricted in that way!
3. I have a fluval 205 in my old tank and a magnum 350 that not using is this enough for biological media for my new tank? How can I inject that nitrifying bacteria in my new tank and how long will I have to run it?
As long as the pumps are running currently and you keep the media in circulating water until you add it to your running filter in the new tank (assuming the water was dechlorinated), it will bring the bacteria with it. If you allow it to sit in stagnant water for a couple hours, the bacteria will die and create sulphur gas. You might need more filter media, but you can simply mix the new stuff in with the old and it'll be fine. If you bring a large mass of plants over with it, you shouldn't have to worry about nitrate or ammonia spikes, especially if you don't add to the fish load right away.
> 4. 3 holes in the overflow whats the 3rd hole for. they told be for (close system)? I dont
All three are inside the overflow? My guess would be that with the water pressure provided by a pump, more water can be pushed through the return pipe than would naturally drain out of the same size pipe by gravity alone. So you would use two as drains and one as the return. This also provides a level of redundancy in case one becomes clogged. I know I have a breeding tank setup next to my 240g tank. I have a 1.5" gravity siphon from the 240 into the 20g tank and a 1" sponge covered pipe goes to a Quiet1One 3000 pump that pumps water back into the big tank. I have to restrict the flow from that pump or it will pump water out faster than it can siphon it in from the big tank even though the siphon pipe is 50% larger.
> 5. Can I put those 2 cannister filters as a return line of my water or just run it in the sump
> and put a pump.
I don't have experience with using a sump, but having used canister filters on an overflow system, I would definitely choose a sump next time. In that case, typically the drain to the sump is gravity fed and it's pumped back to the tank. The drain is inside the overflow so in the event of a power failure, you must make sure that the water that could drain out before it drops below the overflow will fit inside your sump. I wouldn't rely on your canister filter(s) to be that return pump. Invest the money in a real pump. You won't get reliable flow otherwise.
If you have a hole drilled outside the overflow, plumb it as a drain to your sink with a valve. That way you can do water changes by opening the valve for 30min or so, then close it and refill. I have an auto-fill unit on mine so I unplug the auto-fill, open the drain valve for 30min which is the time it tanks to drop to a good level in my tank, then close the valve and plug the auto-fill back in. It handles refilling for me. With another electronic valve, I could fully automate the process, but that's a bit risky. If you don't have a hole outside the overflow, you would benefit from plumbing a drain "T" connection into the pump lines, but you won't be able to drain past the overflow level without a siphon.
I guess it's not an issue for you since you can put it in the sump, but from experience, putting the heater inside the overflow box doesn't work as well as you would think. It works ok, but you have to be super careful that the box never drains fully when the heater is on!
You can see photos of some of my setup on our site. I have more that I still need to document there, but like I said, I'll be hosting the September meeting so if you come, you can see it all in detail. I also have a shop full of tools you're welcome to make use of (at the meeting, or some other evening or weekend.) I'm in downtown Dallas and like to build stuff.