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Old 02-02-2003, 05:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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No wet/dry
I have and Eheim 2028 from www.BigAlsOnline.com with media for $199. Its rated for 100-160g tanks.

Under the stand I have the CO2 tank and reactor, but they are not hooked up yet.
You can also see the UV Sterilizer
All of the ballasts for the lighting are mounted against the roof.

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Old 02-02-2003, 05:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Dojo
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 12:16 am Post subject:

Nice stuff!

Whats the purpose the UV sterilizer?


JamesHoftiezer
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 5:38 am Post subject:

UV Sterilizer cuts down on single cell algaes (green water) and various fish parasites and diseases. It will be run until I get into a large fert regimen at which point I'll only be running it about once a week or when introducing fish.

The ony negative about running it all the time, is that many people beleive it breaks down chemicals in the fertilizers such as the bonds in chelated iron.
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Old 02-02-2003, 05:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Ghazanfar Ghori
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 6:00 am Post subject:

First let me wipe the drool off my chin....

Now the questions:

With all that connected to your filter outflow, have you noticed
any loss of flow? One of the good things with the Ehiem professional II
series is the flow rate indicator. Love that!

You're not using a spray bar right? How's the circulation without it?

What are you planning to plant in the foreground?

Are you getting tannins leaching from the corkbark yet?
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 8:38 am Post subject:


Big concern was losing flow because of the UV, reactor and all the bends. The indicator on the eheim is still at the top indicating full flow.
The tankis geting good circulation. Aiming the flow more towards the top (along with a fan) has eliminated surface scum.

Just in case, I also ordered a 350gph mad grive off ebay for $30. I can hook it inline if needed but at this point I may just put it inthe tank for added circulation with a micron prefilter on it to keep the water polished and moving.

The circulation right now is agood flow, but not forceful. It causes a swilrling motion in surface, but the fish are not nidered by it. They avoid the main stream, but swim around on their own throughout the tank.

The cork has not been leaching noticably, but did during the soaking. I knew it was going to float but I did presoak it for two weeks to try and get the tannins out.
I am currently running a carbon pad in the filter but still have a little yellow to the water under 6400k lights.

I am reaserving the foreground (all 3 sq ft ) for microsword and gloss. I do have a lot of riccia, but have not decided how much I'll use. I want to cover several areas, but I do not want to cover the entire foreground.
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IUknown
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 1:42 pm Post subject:

You just got me interested in the night light. I love that picture. What temperature should I look for, dark blue? Is it the 10000K/Dark Blue Combo? Great work!


JamesHoftiezer
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 2:30 pm Post subject:


It does look pretty sweet doesn't it

The picture is just the blue bulb in a standard 13w kit.
AH sells the bulb as:
13 6.9" Medium Blue 11137 $7.99
Do not confuse it with a 10k bulb or combo bulb. Those will still have the 10k white light. At night I think it is just the right amount of light. Once I have larger, silvery fish its gonna be better, but I wouldn't go with a larger bulb.
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Dojo
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 3:06 pm Post subject:

I used AH's 2x13 retrofit kit for my red lights over my 130gal



Don't be ALARMED by the intense RED. It's not THAT red nore THAT bright. And the red light actually, after being on 10 minutes, fades into a more low 'warm' light. I saw James blue light and it's intrigued me I might switch them out with blue just to see how it looks. I was hoping the red wouldnt be so bright but it still is a little to much for a 'night viewing light'. I still love it all the same though! The clown loaches loose every bit of fear when I turn on the red lights!

~D

JamesHoftiezer
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2002 5:09 pm Post subject:

I considered the red and and the blue.
I had seen red lights on reptile cages but I think the blue gives an aquarium a moonlight look which is more natural.
I see the red lights and it reminds more of Mars and the sun than of Earth and the water.
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JamesHoftiezer
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Posted: Tue Nov 19, 2002 6:30 am Post subject:

Update -
On another thread (Product Review) there is a great closeout deal on an Eheim 2228 filter ($99 ). They confirmed the order but we'll have to see if its actually in.
Its the same as a 2028 except it doesn't have the prime feature and using smaller hose.

Here's what I'm thinking:
Give each its own intake from the bulkhead using some 3/4" PVC and adapters. Make the 2228 the biological filter and make the 2028 the polishing filter. Leave the UV on the end of the 2028.

If I need to I can rejoin the lines using larger hose and use the power of both filter to push through the CO2 reactor. I'll overkill on the filtration which I don't think is a bad thing. It will make the extra pumphead unneeded.

Any problems? Anything I'm missing?

-The pump was $40and I really think I was going to need it.
-I really didn't want to put the pump inside the tank.
-I was going to need prefilters and such on the pump taking up a lot of space and costing more money.
-I was going to need place to put a carbonate media to raise the kh.
-I've been trying come up with a way to increase the fine media for polishing the water.

This way I return the pump, double my filter capacity and double the number of media baskets. It will cost about $45 more than the pump.
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JamesHoftiezer
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Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2002 4:36 am Post subject:

New update:
I got the second filter in and replumbed the tank. Now I have two Eheim 2x28 filters online with a rated flow of 275gph each on a 100g tank. Combined it will be 5x filter capacity. One is set up with bilogical material, the other has the mechanical media.

First I lowered the water level and plugged the input/ouput fitting.

Since the bulkheads are double threaded I was able to just uncrew the old pieces and screw in standpipes with qty(2) 3/4" fittings each. Each pump now has its own in/out circuit. They go from 5/8 hoses to 3/4" PVC to 1" PVC. Each size change should create pressure drops so that backpressure does not build in any section (i.e. the filters don't fight each other).

Inside tha tank, I changed the water jet from qty(1) 3/4" by adding qty(3) 1/4" jets. These jets area just hose barbs screwed into the 1" PVC. They allow me to adjust the flow of the water jets. Two of the 1/4" outlets are planted in the substrate under a row of hydo. The third is towards the back. If flow becomes and issue I will likely change this to a 3/4" outlet.

With one filter going I get a good stream across the front of the tank. With both filters going it is so strong it tosses the fish around. Once the water clears and I get ready to go with both on a regualr basis I will make the change on the back jet.
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otherguy
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Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2002 10:07 pm Post subject:

Just curious I was reading that you painted your pvc to blend in better, did you use just regular old spray paint??????

Thanks,

Otherguy

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator


Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2002 4:16 am Post subject:

I used rustolem primer, then finish. All outdoor grade.
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walpurgis999
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Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2002 5:11 am Post subject:

The "red light" debate has cropped up in several forums over the years (this is not the only forum I have been a part of)--but this is the best I too use a red light over my 55g tank for night time viewing, and the whole "cool" effect is not why a red light is used. When I first setup my light, it was not red but white and the tank looked "cool" at night. However, I noticed that the fish were drawn to the light because it was like moonlight and thus normal light. However, when I installed a red light (actually strips that made the white light red) the tank still looked "cool" but the fish were not drawn to it. I do not know if your fish are drawn to the light, but if they are I suggest buying a red cover for the light. I like your stand.

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator


Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2002 9:09 am Post subject:

So far all I have for fish is an algae crew of ottos and SAE. They behave normally with the blue light. They are a little more active at night, but have never exhibited any tendancy to move to the light.

The stand will officially hold a volkswagen bug. I love using the workbench legs. The sides are just bolted on. When it comes time to move I can disassemble the whole thing.

I am thinking about putting a liner in the bottom of the stand. I end up spillin water everyonce in a while when doing the filters. Idea for now is wither to line it with heavy mil plastic or using a clothes washer base.

P.S> I have upgaded the fan to 100cfm which is louder but tolerable and am using a semi-open hood. CO2 is up on a milwaukee controller. Reactor is going great. Pics of all to follow.
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Old 02-02-2003, 06:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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JamesHoftiezer
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Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2002 4:07 am Post subject:


Here's the current tank with 220w (of 330w) running.



Here's shot of the semi-open hood.


This is the same hood as before mounted using a 30" piano hinge on the back. In order to keep it open, I have two small wood blocks cut at angles and wedged in the back. I imagine I'm losing some light too deflection because of the angle striking the water, but with the AHSupply reflectors, it seem negligable within the tank.



The reason the hood can be "semi-open" is because of heat. I did not create a lot of extra space in the hood for air. If the hood is closed the lights drive the water into the high 80's. A small fan(3", ~20CFM) was added which kept the temp to 78F. I got a new 4" fan off of ebay (100cfm) which can keep the temp down to 74F even if I close the hood. To help keep vibration down, the fan is mounted to the hood using an old neoprene mouse pad as a gasket. Below the fan, is a 10"x23"x3/8" glass cut and sanded by the local glass shop ($11). The glass is there to keep the fan from createing excesive agitation which will cool more (72F), but also result in CO2 loss.
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Old 02-02-2003, 06:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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walpurgis999
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Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2002 7:57 am Post subject:



That hood is absolutely beautiful. I love the marble finish you have on it. Your tank looks like it has cost you over $1000 already--but who cares if you like it, right? You also gave me an idea. I have a nice canopy built for my 55g that uses shoplights. Before you go yuck, listen to what I did. I made a nice fixture out of white pine that is rectangular and has 3-4 inches of extra depth for air flow. I spray gunned (not spray painted) the hood so it looks professional, and installed two 4 inches fans on either end. I then went to Home Depot and bought 3 shoplights (which I now have replaced with 3 newer ones) and installed them. The newer version (all the lights were $7.00 a piece) can be used with only the endcaps, ballast, and a rectangular metal piece which I inverted and screwed the encaps into. Everything is grounded and the ballast is electronic (yes, I said electronic) instead of magentic. BUT! THE IDEA NOW! The fans vibrate quite a bit, so I am going to install a pad (like your mouse pad) to cut down on the vibration. My hood hangs over my tank, so my plants can grow out. Keep up the pictures, NICE!

walpurgis999
Happy Gardener-frequent member


Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2002 7:57 am Post subject:

That hood is absolutely beautiful. I love the marble finish you have on it. Your tank looks like it has cost you over $1000 already--but who cares if you like it, right? You also gave me an idea. I have a nice canopy built for my 55g that uses shoplights. Before you go yuck, listen to what I did. I made a nice fixture out of white pine that is rectangular and has 3-4 inches of extra depth for air flow. I spray gunned (not spray painted) the hood so it looks professional, and installed two 4 inches fans on either end. I then went to Home Depot and bought 3 shoplights (which I now have replaced with 3 newer ones) and installed them. The newer version (all the lights were $7.00 a piece) can be used with only the endcaps, ballast, and a rectangular metal piece which I inverted and screwed the encaps into. Everything is grounded and the ballast is electronic (yes, I said electronic) instead of magentic. BUT! THE IDEA NOW! The fans vibrate quite a bit, so I am going to install a pad (like your mouse pad) to cut down on the vibration. My hood hangs over my tank, so my plants can grow out. Keep up the pictures, NICE!
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Old 02-02-2003, 06:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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JamesHoftiezer
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Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2002 9:20 am Post subject:

No yucks in these forums. We all have different ideas and different budgets. If it works it works.

The paint is black gloss and gray primer. Both are Rustoleum outdoor. All of the wood got primed with the gray which dries in about 30 minutes. Then I poured the paints into the left and right sides of a paint tray and used a roller to apply it. Nothing fancy, just did both colors at once. You can use the same roller for a while before it gets muddled with the two colors.

Cut the mouse pad with a razor blade and use some small screws to hold it down. I added the glass underneath it to cut the surface agitation. In my case the air comes down, hits the glass and scatters all the heat out of the hood. When closed there are three vent holes the heat escapes. I may add a few more. Hole saws are so easy to work with its no big deal.

With the top propped open like this there is a lot of stress on the back hinge. So far it has been taking it with no problem, but I am constantly remined that I should have done that part of the hood with hardwood.
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JamesHoftiezer
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Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2002 8:34 pm Post subject:



Here's the underside of the cabinet.
After some early spills I got a 36x17 sterlite storage box and put it under the cabinet. The filter and CO2 are in the box. The electrical is mounted to the top and run on the periphery.

CO2 is now automated using a Milwaukee PH controller, solenoid and reactor.

I am now running all 330w of light. The lighting is controlled using an x10 timer.

The hoses on the filters wee cut long enough to pull the filter out of the cabinet. The down side is that its a lot of hose to have to coil up when fitting it all under the cabinet.
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Old 02-02-2003, 06:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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JamesHoftiezer
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Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2002 5:14 am Post subject:

To address KH/GH (both come out of the tap as 0-1), I added crushed coral to the filter.

The first time I added 400g wrapped in a bundle inside an eheim pushing 275gph. It raised it (maybe) to a solid 1.

Two days ago I used about 1000g in the same eheim but this time put it on top of a filter pad spead out for greater contact. KH 10, GH 8 with the ph at a constant 6.8.


now I just need to find a happy medium to get it to 4/4. I'm going to pull 1/3 of the coral out and see where the readings go. I hope to post the equilibrium pooint soon.
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Svennovitch
Totally Awesome-Dedicated member


Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2002 6:29 am Post subject:

Your tank is looking awesome! And i don't mean only the inside, but also the outside. Man, i envy your equipment!! This will turn out to be the best looking tank ever!!
Congratulations!
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JamesHoftiezer
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Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2002 8:04 am Post subject:


Thank You

P.S> I know I've said it a dozen times but I'll keep saying it. This tank is a product of these forums. There's a little bit of every person, opinion, thread, picture, tank and aquascape in this tank.
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jart
Java Baby-new member revisiting


Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2003 1:37 pm Post subject:


"A 30" piano hinge allows the hood to be raised toa vertical position for maintenance. "

sooo... exactly where did you find said hinges?

i had the same idea some time ago and spent ages looking; finally decided on a different design.

in fact, i had the latest revision all planned until i saw your pics. d'oh!! anyway, i would appreciate knowing where you found those hinges. btw, from what i understand, they're not really "piano hinges" per se, are they?

regards, and tia.


JamesHoftiezer
Moderator


Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2003 7:37 pm Post subject:

Welcome to the forums

A piano hinge is just any real long hinge. You can find them in any home improvement/hardware center. They are usually on the hardware aisle where the door knobs and hinges are.

I found 24", 30" and 36" for $6-9US
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jart
Java Baby-new member revisiting


Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2003 7:50 pm Post subject:

alright then it IS a piano hinge...

looking at the 4th pic you posted, i was under the impression you were using some sort of fancy hinge pairs (one on each side). i thought there was, in existence somewhere, such a hinge that, when fully extended (ie when your light rack was fully vertical), would "lock" into place, until sufficient force was used to push it back down again. never did find such a beast.

thanks for getting back to me. no need to tell you your setup looks great.

regards

jart

JamesHoftiezer
Moderator


Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2003 2:10 am Post subject:


There is something similar to what you are mentioning. They are used in cedar chests and blanket lockers.

At one point I was going to use a screen door closer to lock the top up an make sure that it couldn't slam shut. In the end the angles didn't work, but I still think it was a really great idea.

On the current hood, I just raise it to 90 degrees and let the tip rest against the wall. No magic.
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