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Old 08-04-2003, 11:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I built a frame for my canopy and then put screws in from the back side to hold the front and side boards in place. The front board is long enough to cover the side boards, so there is no end visible from the front. Only warning is that you have to be very careful in measuring the frame. It should be a very tiny bit bigger than the inner dimension of the aquarium. Not much room to play with.
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Old 08-04-2003, 06:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I do not have any experience building a stand but I have built a canopy for my 100 gallon and my thirty gallon. It is a pretty easy design, no screws are seen from the out side. And the whole lid lifts up. Here are my pictures.

Here is the whole view of my hood.

Here is a picture when the top is up. You can see my fans are mounted in the back. Four are blowing in, and the two on the ends are blowing out. The temp is at 78 during the day and the heater comes on at night.
You can also see the piano hinge in the back.

My lights are mounted on the top. I have recently added two more 13 watt blue bulbs for the moonlight effect. The ballast and AC/DC adapter for the fans are mounted on the back part of the hood.

Just another picture of the top up.

Here is a close up of the fans.

Here is a close up of the corner. I made a roter cut on the top part to make it look different. Really easy. I have no woodworking experience. The only thing that I mess up on is cutting the two top pieces. One side is about 1/4 inch shorter then the other side. When I made my 30 gallon hood, I made sure that I cut the top longer then needed so I could rout the top better.

The wood is made of cypress that is 12" wide. I cut the front 62" and both side 20". I use some wood glue and four 2x2 to connect the front to the sides and the sides to the back. I just placed the 2x2's in the corner, drilled from the inside and connected the side to the front. The 2x2 are used for the brace on which the canopy sits on the tank. In the back I used a 62" long 5" wide piece to connect the back to the side. Then a 62" by 1" four inches below that so the fans have something to connect with. That also make about 7" of open air in the back. The top I used two 64" (One a little shorter) took three 2x4's to connect the wood. I used the 2x4's also as a brace to connect the lights too. Connected the top to the bottom with a 48" piano hinge, and done. The hood weighs about 45lbs. When I want to clean the tank, I just lift the top up, get my step stool and do the cleaning. When I just want to feed, I have a little brace that I use to prop up the top. There is no visuable screws, bolts, or nails and no plywood was used.

Mike K.
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Old 08-05-2003, 09:16 AM   #13 (permalink)
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My design is very similar except....

Only about 2/3 of the top lifts, the other 1/3 has one bank of lights and is permanently closed, with the two sections hinged. This allowed me to not seek out an extra wide piece of wood (18") and not have to glue two pieces together. Also, I don't have as many lights to lift.

I've also got a handle in the middle of the front part of the lid.

I positioned my fans higher, so as to be effective in moving out the rising hot air.
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Old 08-05-2003, 02:58 PM   #14 (permalink)
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That is excellent work. Looks really good.

James Hoftiezer
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