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Useful Links to NPT Procedures

37K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  JoanToBa 
#1 ·
I'd like to try keeping this sticky for useful procedures.

Here's one:

Calcium Dosing Procedure (for raising GH of softwater tanks)

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/29062-calcium-dosing-procedure.html

I'll add more (when I can find them). ;)

To make this sticky truly useful, please let's not use it for discussing the material itself.

If you'd like to discuss something further, then I would go to the actual link/old discussion and post your thoughts there. That way the old thread is re-vitalized for further discussion in its own folder... where it should be. :yo:

Diana
 
#3 ·
#5 · (Edited)
Hello everybody,

If you have soft water like I have ,you would be aware of how difficult it is to maintain correct water hardness, if you fill a nice big drum of water and add about 1 litre of dolomite lime ,keep testing for water hardness untill levels are suitable. water pH may need adjustment just take things slowly when adding the water ,but with time acidic reactions in the tank should balance out ,Hope this will help.
 
#6 ·
I am a returning hobbyist after 20 years absence. I got Diana Walstad's book and I can say that the information contained therein opened my eyes to what I didn't know, what I thought I knew, clarified so much of the misconceptions out there and I know would increase my enjoyment of the hobby tremendously. I would like to set up a 50 gal. planted tank with 1 - 1 1/2" of top soil substrate and a 1" layer of sand intended for Discus, Cardinals, some small Tetras and Corydoras. The top soil is free of pesticides.
The municipal water fresh from the tap tests a pH of 6.5. I put some soil in a jar and half filled it with municipal water, stirred it and let settle for 2 days and another jar of just municipal water for 2 days. When I tested the water, the water with soil tested just a bit over 6.5 but the pure municipal water tested 8. (I had encountered this change in pH of our municipal water when I set up my 125 gal. planted tank and I will have it in another posting.) In other words, the soil changed the municipal water (pure after 2 days) from 8 to 6.5 which to me would mean that I have an acidic soil.
A water pH of 6.5 is perfect for keeping Discus if I do not add CO2 which I should not have to in Diana's set up. Is my soil too acidic and may result in metal toxicity? My KH is about 4. Is the soil better to be a bit on the alkaline side? Should I add lime?
I am a new member and this is my first posting here or anywhere ever for that matter. Much appreciate your assistance. :)
 
#7 · (Edited)
I am a returning hobbyist after 20 years' absence. I got Diana Walstad's book and I can say that the information contained therein opened my eyes to what I didn't know, what I thought I knew, clarified so much of the misconceptions out there and I know would increase my enjoyment of the hobby tremendously. I would like to set up a 50 gal. planted tank with 1 - 1 1/2" of top soil substrate and a 1" layer of sand intended for Discus, Cardinals, some small Tetras and Corydoras. The top soil is free of pesticides.
The municipal water fresh from the tap tests a pH of 6.5. I put some soil in a jar and half filled it with municipal water, stirred it and let settle for 2 days and another jar of just municipal water for 2 days. When I tested the water, the water with soil tested just a bit over 6.5 but the pure municipal water tested 8. (I had encountered this change in pH of our municipal water when I set up my 125 gal. planted tank and I will have it in another posting.) In other words, the soil changed the municipal water (pure after 2 days) from 8 to 6.5 which to me would mean that I have an acidic soil.
A water pH of 6.5 is perfect for keeping Discus if I do not add CO2 which I should not have to in Diana's set up. Is my soil too acidic and may result in metal toxicity? My KH is about 4. Is the soil better to be a bit on the alkaline side? Should I add lime?
I am a new member and this is my first posting here or anywhere ever for that matter. Much appreciate your assistance. :)
 
#9 ·
I may have posted to an inactive blog. In any case, I got some very fine beach sand that I suspect to be coral sand. I added a pinch of it to H2SO4 and it reacted in an exothermic reaction leaving tiny black particles that would have to be CaSO4 and the foam would be CO2. I assume I had the reaction H2SO4 + CaCO3 --> CaSO4 + H2CO3 which dissociated into CO2 and H2O. I added this coral sand to my soil and used it for my substrate. I think adding coral sand to be superior to adding straight lime.

I also topped the 1 1/2" of this soil-sand mix with 1" river sand. The sand is neutral and of 2-3 mm size with no sharp edges colored black, gray and sort of a dirty white. This should be a good size to allow for some solid nutrients to get down to the plant roots.

If anyone gets to read this, I would appreciate your ideas. Thanks in advance.
 
#10 ·
Gotthinking. I think this could work for you. I personally have used substrate from my reef on top of my soil in a tank I ran outside for a summer. The plants went WILD.

I think you are going to be ok with the KH due to the calcium in the coral sand. (but its all different kinds.

Sorry you are getting this 7 months later, but I just saw it.

You can view all of my tanks at www.fishtanktv.com

..and I won't do a tank without dirt ever again!

Ask away!
Dustin
http://www.fishtanktv.com
 
#15 ·
Gotthinking. I think this could work for you. I personally have used substrate from my reef on top of my soil in a tank I ran outside for a summer. The plants went WILD.

I think you are going to be ok with the KH due to the calcium in the coral sand. (but its all different kinds.

Sorry you are getting this 7 months later, but I just saw it.

You can view all of my tanks at www.fishtanktv.com

..and I won't do a tank without dirt ever again!

Ask away!
Dustin
http://www.fishtanktv.com
Sorry for the late response, but i think the link is broken
 
#11 ·
Hi Dustin: I apologize for not answering sooner but I was away visiting family. Thanks for the reply. Opinions and information is always timely. The tank in question sprung a leak so I am behind in its setup. I did set up a few small shrimp tanks, some with soil and sand, some just fine gravel and some just beach sand. The ones with soil and sand is doing great with the plants as expected, including floating plants. One thing I am surprise of is that the tanks with soil stay clean and I do not mean just the water. The water in all the tanks (with just a sponge filter) are crystal clear, but the difference is the glass. Those with soil remains perfectly clean. I have not cleaned them since day one (about 8 months now) but the tanks without soil needs to have the glass cleaned regularly. I too will not do a tank without soil. For tanks with fish that tend to gig (as in when spawning, I add a sheet of egg crag used for diffuser for florescent lights between the sand and soil. I want to get my response and appreciation for your posting out quick. Attaching some tanks showing with and without soil. I have also attached my homemade plywood tank with silica sand no soil about 1 1/2 year old.

Dennis
 

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#12 ·
I forgot to label the photos. They are (from left to right):
1. Beach sand no soil. Half of front glass cleaned showing clear water but dirty glass.
2. Silica sand with soil - glass always clean.
3. Gravel with soil - glass always clean.
4. Gravel with soil - glass always clean.
5. 128 gal. plywood tank with silica sand only. Need to clean glass regularly. I have uploaded another view.
Please click to enlarge photos for a better view.

Dennis
 

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