Dosing shcedule for 125g tank - Fertilizing - Aquatic Plant Central

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Old 08-26-2004, 09:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Dosing shcedule for 125g tank

Okay, I've been reading through the various dosing threads and trying to come up with a weekly schedule for a newly setup 125 gal tank (pressurized CO2 at ~28ppm, 3wpg PC). Basically it's reading 0 across the board for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate.

Working through the Fertilator and Chuck's calculator I've come up with a schedule of .75tsp KNO3 (6.4 ppm NO3) and .25tsp Fleet enema (.6 ppm P) M, W, F, Sa. This is all based on the Fertilator's recomendation of 85% rated tank volume (125 * .85 = 106 gallons) for actual volume.

On the trace I've been told a good dosing is to figure 1ml/gal/week which equals to 35ml (106ml/3) of TMG on Tu, Th, Sa.

Water change (25%) day is Saturday.

Does this sound right. Also, what is the general opinion on when to start dosing a new tank. I've seen recommendations of 1/2 dosing immediately to no dosing for 2-4 weeks to reduce algae outbreaks. The substrate (50/50 mixture of Schultz Aquatic Plant Soil and a coarse quartz sand) was seeded with mulm from a well established 29 gal tank. And I did add 10 Flourish tabs every 8" or so around the deeper planting areas of the tank

I'm stocking my tank with it's clean up crew (13 otos, 4 SAEs, 10 pygmy Corys and 3 albino corys) and will be adding some Amano and Cherry shrimp in the next week or so.
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Old 08-26-2004, 10:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Oh, I should add that the tank is on the way to being heavily planted with a variety of Crypts, L. aromatica, L repens (narrow and broad leaf varieties), R. rotundifolia, some Hygros (Ammania gracilis, polysperma, Sunset and corymbosa--one stem of each ), H. umbrosium and callitricoides, Marsilea, Glosso and dwarf hair grass (I'm trying to see which foreground will grow beast ).

Your basic nutrient sink mix.
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Old 08-26-2004, 11:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Based on a 50-70% weekly water change:
I'd add 1 teaspoon of KNO3 every other day
1/8 teaspoon KH2PO4
20mls every other day of traces(on the off days as the macros, so a total of 3x a week and the macro's 4x a week)

If the tank was seeded with mulm and opeat as I typically suggest, the plants and fish are in there, it's time to add all the nutrients.

There is no "down time" if you do these things.

New tank algae issues are from not having enough CO2, plants, mulm etc. NH4 and anything that cuases it not to be removed will encourage algae.
Not from simply being "new", the only difference between a new tank and an old one is the substrate/filter, adding mulm and some peat takes care of that, mulm more than the peat.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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Old 08-26-2004, 11:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks again Tom. I did sprinkle peat on the tanks bottom before adding the gravel mix, then 'flavor injected' it with mulm before filling. I'll be getting some KH2PO4 from Greg Watson next week and will then be able to use that instead of the Fleet.

Looks like it definitely time to rig up a powerhead to assist in water changes
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Old 08-27-2004, 05:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Bill,

Definately dose now. Having the nutrients, all of them, in the wc now will help reduce algae outbreaks more than anything. I am discovering for my self, with everyone elses help of course, that it truely is low CO<sup>2</sup> leveals and NH<sup>4</sup> that cause most of our algae problems, as long as there are no nutrient deficiencies (ie, 0ppm of somehting). I assume that your smaller wc plan was due to the other thread about daily dosing and minimum rates but I would definately start with bigger doseing, at least till everything gets settled whena small deficiency of somehting will be less "dangerous".

Tom,

I guess I am a little fuzzy about the mulm/ peat thing. I never have quite understood the mulm part. Is it adding bacteria, organics for the bacteria, or organics for hte plants. I thought the peat added organics plus created a, ah.. whats the word, binds with the nutrients in the substrate so they are more available to the plants. Is this right? Sorry for a basic question and for asking it in your thread Bharada
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis
Tom,

I guess I am a little fuzzy about the mulm/ peat thing. I never have quite understood the mulm part. Is it adding bacteria, organics for the bacteria, or organics for hte plants. I thought the peat added organics plus created a, ah.. whats the word, binds with the nutrients in the substrate so they are more available to the plants. Is this right? Sorry for a basic question and for asking it in your thread Bharada
Dennis, no problem in you piggybacking on my thread. It just makes it easier for me to find newfound knowledge

I always assumed that adding the mulm was a little of both...bacterial innoculation as well as adding some organics for the plant's roots.

I tested for PO4 and got a reading of almost 1ppm which I'll attribute the Schultz Aquatic Soil (as has been reported in the past) so I'll have to keep an eye on that as I dose KH2PO4 or Fleet.
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Mulm adds precisely what is missing from an established "aged" substrate, live bacteria, fungi, protozoa etc and some organic material for them to live on till the waste gets going in a new tank.

Peat adds some reducing power so that durning the time it takes for the bacteria to get settled, you have similar conditions in the substrate and a good place for the bacteria to grow, it's also a slow release form of Organic matter and carbon for the bacteria to live on.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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Old 09-04-2004, 06:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plantbrain
Based on a 50-70% weekly water change:
I'd add 1 teaspoon of KNO3 every other day
1/8 teaspoon KH2PO4
20mls every other day of traces(on the off days as the macros, so a total of 3x a week and the macro's 4x a week)

If the tank was seeded with mulm and opeat as I typically suggest, the plants and fish are in there, it's time to add all the nutrients.

There is no "down time" if you do these things.

New tank algae issues are from not having enough CO2, plants, mulm etc. NH4 and anything that cuases it not to be removed will encourage algae.
Not from simply being "new", the only difference between a new tank and an old one is the substrate/filter, adding mulm and some peat takes care of that, mulm more than the peat.

Regards,
Tom Barr
50% to 70% of water changed.
Question do you think this is a litlte over kill???
How about 20 gallons??
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