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Nano Aquariums Nanos aquariums may be small but they can make a striking canvas for your aquascapes.

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Old 08-18-2005, 07:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I will be moving into a house middle of next year and there will be a large tank (approx. 400g) built into a wall. I currently have a 60g that I have planted and am hoping to learn enough from to be able to care for the larger tank. Is a 60g tank going to teach me the things I need to know?

Also, should I post design plans here or in the DIY forum?

Thanks in advance.
dale
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Old 08-18-2005, 08:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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The scale difference presents radically different issues.
I maintain a 350 gal tank fully loaded with livestock and lots of plants.

CO2 is , like most any tank, the main issue.
Add hard plumb drain and fill, use a carbon filter to remove Chlorine etc from the tap. You should just be able to drain the tank with a turn and fill with a turn.

Use a sump over flow.

Regards,

Tom Barr
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Old 08-18-2005, 08:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info. I am working with an architect to include all the necessary plumbing for just such a set up.

Does the EI dosing method work for a tank on this scale? What kind of filter(s) would be wise for a setup of this size. I was thinking 3-4 canister filters maybe 1-2 without any filter media mostly for flow. Also, could you expound on a sump overflow?
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Old 08-19-2005, 05:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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frozenOak:

Check out my sig. 240G fully planted, in the wall. Hard-plumbed, the only filter is the CO2 reactor. Modified EI with nutrient sump. Currently with 800W of MH lighting (the light kit has been changed within the last couple months).

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Old 08-19-2005, 08:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hi Praxx, thanks for the pic's. Is that a 10# CO2 bottle? I was looking at getting 50#er but if 10# is sufficient then I may not go that big.

It is starting to look like the hard plumbing is going to drain into a pond outside. It will be independent of the house plumbing. I'm not sure the local sewage lines would accept 200 gallons of watter all at once.

I have also been considering an automatic watter change system. Is it a bad idea to set up an auto drain/fill system for a large tank?
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Old 08-19-2005, 09:34 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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It really depends on what you can get filled in your area. Do some research on what your local gas places are willing to fill. Next you have to consider how you're going to transport a 50 lb bottle to your filler. You can also consider buying two tanks instead of one large one as well. When one runs out, swap out the other tank and then fill both when the second goes low.
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Old 08-19-2005, 06:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Getting the CO2 filled won't be a problem. I could have a whole tanker truck delivered to the house if I wanted (well that and the money to pay for it). But that is a valid point I may go with 2 20# bottles and have one "at the ready".

This is a working diagram of what i have in mind.

There will be a relay to energise the two solenoids and the optical liquid level switch will de-energise the circuit when the tank is half empty. Any and all input is welcome and appreciated.

dale

P.S. How do I make the linked thumbnails I have seen on APC?

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Old 08-19-2005, 10:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frozenoak
Thanks for the info. I am working with an architect to include all the necessary plumbing for just such a set up.

Does the EI dosing method work for a tank on this scale? What kind of filter(s) would be wise for a setup of this size. I was thinking 3-4 canister filters maybe 1-2 without any filter media mostly for flow. Also, could you expound on a sump overflow?
Yes, you'll need to have the plumbing installed correctly as well as a drain neat by and build a small 1-2" rim around the tank (below) on the floor so that if a leak does ever occur, a sump over flow etc, the water will go down the drain, not out into the room etc.

I use EI on the tank, the growth is dramatic.
I use a dosing pump set up.

I dose daily with a timer and refill the reservior once a week and do my water change and trim on the same day.

I can refill, prune, clean, etc in about 2 hours. I do about 80% water changes, but 40-50% are fine also. Some go longer and do once every two weeks.

I use 20lb tanks. Do not use 50's, they are a PITA to pick up and move around.

I'd use a sump since the evaporation is high on large tanks anmd this prevents scale on such a nice large tank and keeps all sorts of tubes and crap out of the tank.

Overflow also keeps the surface clean and clear.

Your pond will look great if you do that, set it up so you use the pond water for irrigation etc, then drain the pond for that, then refill as you do the water change on the tank.

This will give you 3 different uses for the water.

Spectrapure makes a electronic float switch FYI.

I would keep the water change method manual, but very easy(just turn a valve and that's it.)

This is safe allows you to work on the tank when you do not have to put your head underwater.

THIS IS WHY YOU need to do LARGE WATER CHANGES!!

Try pruning and replanting in 24" deep or deeper tanks for an hour sometime and clean glass etc.

While the tank is drainign and refilling, you do the prunign at the lower water levels, net out leaves etc near the end of the refill, refill things and work on other mainteance while it first starts to drain etc.

I think a single CO2 gas tank and 2 needle valves is the way to go and have a 20 lb for a back up when one runs out.

I run 2 reactors but.........it was someone else's set up. I'd make a large 3 x 22" PVC pipe(you can use acrylic and use PVC fittings) and add bioballs, 3/4" in, 2x 3/4 out the bottom and use a large Ehiem pump or a 500-600gph pump and feed the CO2 into the top of the chamber with a tube that extends all the way down inside or also you can fed the gas directly into the suction side of the pump.

Start with 4-6bubbles a second and go up from there.

Lighting:

PC+ MH's will make a nice flexible mix.
I'd use the hellolights.com 8800K 55w bulbs(11$ ea!!! right now), A&H retro kits (8x 55w) and then 4 x 150w HQI's.

Substrate:
Onyx sand, call SeaChem and ask if you can get a dealer discount from a local vendor.

Ferts: Greg Watson
Traces:TMG and flourish are the best I've used.

Spend ___lots of time__ on the hard scape/wood/rock before planting and filling.

Sump over flow is a wet dry filter style set up, seal the wet dry section with duct tape so that air does not echange, the bacteria in there will release CO2 as it converts any NH4 into NO3.

So there are no losses except in the over flow, raising that level with prevent degassing also. So adjust the over flow level to 4" below the surface of the tank to minimize splash.

See any sump/wet dry filter design.

Regards,
Tom Barr

www.BarrReport.com
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