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Old 06-07-2006, 10:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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you could sell the extra glosso on the trade forum or on aquabid. ...or give it to me for free
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Old 06-07-2006, 11:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I always find myself refering to this link in our Library Section when planting glosso: https://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...regrounds.html. I bet the same process would go for emersed setups.

You can try it that way, or like Finfollower said, give it to him, or try APC's for Sale section to see if anyone needs/wants Glosso.

-John N.
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Old 06-08-2006, 08:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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hmm, a little too late now. I kinda left the glosso lying around in its packaging and most of died. A question about my glosso though, how large are the leaflets usually? My glosso that i got from aquariumplants.com were tiny, most leaves were smaller than half a centimeter and all the plants were long, thin, and spindly making it really hard to plant. The two leaves at the nodes were very long, to the point i doubted whether it was glosso at all. Perhaps it wasn't grown with enough lighting?

Anyhow, my driftwood has finally sunk and i retied the riccia and java moss, both of which were a total pain.

I'm starting to think about some fauna for the tank now. Considering some white clouds or harlequin rasbora...or maybe both. How many fish can i keep in a 10 gallon? Also, are algae eating fish and shrimp necessary? I can't find any at my local LFS, and am not feeling the 20 dollar shipping cost (i live in Jersey) for a few fish and shrimp unless it's recommended.
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:04 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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For the fauna, I was told that I could fit in 6-10 tetras and 2 otos. So I'm guessing it'd probably be around the same for your tank. White clouds and rasboras have a slightly smaller adult size than rummynose and black neon tetras(the ones I'm considering getting this weekend), so maybe you can stick 1 or 2 more in. Algae eating fish and shrimp aren't necessary, but it helps keep the tank cleaner. Shrimp are also fun to watch
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Old 06-09-2006, 01:41 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John N.
Hey Welcome to the Unlurked side of the forum!



Those plants and basically any other will last in those lighting conditions. Flourish Excel for CO2 could be used, or you can run the hagen unit, which is good also. Maybe a combo of both for best results...

Flourish won't be enough for fertilzers, you'll need Nitrogen, Potassium and Phosphates too. There's a couple of stickies in the fertilization section that direct you to how to dose, and where to get some of these ferts. Gregwatson.com is basically where I'm telling you where to get them..

Add ferts, co2, and excel from the get go to avoid algae problems. With a 36 watt kit over a 10, you're pumping a lot of light and keeping up ferts is Very necessary or all sorts of algae will occur. I have a 36 watt over my 10 right now and had an algae outbreak because my CO2 levels were low, and I didn't add enough ferts.

-John N.

Dear sir John,
Whats the meaning of Flourish Excel and hagen unit ? BTw, for fertelizer i only add those tablet forms of fertiliser. And i only have a normal Soil from "AquaSoil" Malaya type. Anyone heard of it ? And i put in straight as my gravel. i didnt mix with any other fertiliser. Is this ok? I m also doing a 15 gallon tank. Only growing glosso as lawn and mosson wood.
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Old 06-12-2006, 03:21 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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So it's been 5 days since I've planted my aquarium. I've been dosing with Greg Watson ferts and things are going alright. There hasn't been much noticeable growth, but all the plants pearl during the 11-hour photoperiod. I've also noticed some thin green strands of algae growing here and there.

To sum up my set-up:

10 gallon tank
HOB whisper filter
flourite substrate
Hagen CO2 unit
AH Supply 36 watt light
Greg watson ferts: 1/8 tsp. KNO3 and 1/32 tsp. H2PO4 every other day, 1/32 tsp. CSM-B, 50% weekly water change

plants: glosso, ludwigia arcuata, pennywort, baby tears, riccia and java moss on driftwood

I was just wondering if there was anything I was missing or can do to get more robust growth.

Water levels:
nitrates 10 ppm
pH 7
phosphates 5 ppm
KH 1 degree, or 17.9 ppm
GH 7 degrees, or 125 ppm

I have 4 white clouds, 5 harlequin rasbora, and 3 otos in my discus tank that I plan on moving into this tank after the plants situate themselves.

Any suggestions?
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Old 06-13-2006, 04:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bitternut
I was just wondering if there was anything I was missing or can do to get more robust growth.
Patience Spud, patience.



When I started out my 10G tanks I was frustrated since I didn't see much growth. The only growth I noticed was the lovely and beautiful algae. But then again I'm using 65w over them 10s. Once I got my ferts from Greg Watson, dosing Excel, dosing Flourish and Flourish Iron...

BOOM!!!

My plants took off from there. 1 whole month. My Riccia would pearl in no time. Glosso was spreading and invading all the other plants, Wisteria... I have a carpet of it. J.Moss and J.Ferns are actually growing at a good rate and L. Repens well, nice red in the bottom of the leaves and the top portions are almost pink.

Just stick to the dosing and give it time. DOn't mess around too much with your tank and just leave it for a bit. You'll see results. Good luck Spud, I bet you'll be happy once you see them results.

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Old 06-13-2006, 05:50 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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it's almost been a week, and I have very thin thread-like algae flowing from many of my plants. Is it normal to have algae so early in the set up? My phosphate levels are at 5 ppm and i'm not sure whether i should dose lower or higher ferts to out compete the algae. Or perhaps i should just remove the algae and sit and wait.
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Old 06-13-2006, 08:00 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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I think your phosphates are a tad bit high. I dose about 2.5-3ppm phosphates everytime i add ferts in my 10 gallon. And also, maybe plant heavier? Could you post pics of the tank? I'm eager to see your new tank
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Old 06-14-2006, 04:55 AM   #20 (permalink)
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A couple of points. Your kh of 1 needs to go a little higher for CO2 so you don't get pH crashes. You do this by adding baking soda - do a search here to see how much to raise it to about a kh of 3.

With your pH of 7 and kh of 1, you have virtually no CO2 in there. The hagen is a diy system, and you need to be sure to stay on top of the reaction mixture to be sure it's producing. But you need to get the CO2 cranking. You have a good amount of lighting there, and without CO2 you're asking for trouble.

Take your PO4 down a little to around 2-3, if your NO3 is around 10.

But the 2 most important, get the CO2 up, and get your kh a little higher to stabilize the pH once the CO2 starts cranking.

HTH.
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