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Old 06-14-2006, 09:05 AM   #21 (permalink)
 
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my pH is 6.6 or so, and I have yet to correct the KH. Is there a way I can calculate the CO2 from the buffering capacity and pH, or did you just make an estimate? I'm not exactly sure how I can increase my CO2 output. I just used the packages that came with the Hagen unit. Would a 2 L DIY unit be any better?

Also, my tap water phosphate level is about .5 ppm, so my high phosphate levels are from my ferts. Should i do more water changes or decrease the fertilizing? thanks
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Old 06-14-2006, 09:30 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Check out here to give you an idea between kh/pH/CO2. This relationship is not always accurate, btw.

I'm not familiar with the Hagen unit compared to a 2L jug.

Regarding the PO4's, next water change add less PO4 to bring it into the 2-3 range.
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Old 06-14-2006, 11:09 AM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bitternut
I'm not exactly sure how I can increase my CO2 output. I just used the packages that came with the Hagen unit. Would a 2 L DIY unit be any better?
Using a larger bottle will extend the CO2 production and slightly inrease bubble production. However the best way to increase DIY CO2 bubbles is to take two (2) liter bottles, connect them with a T-Valve ($2 for the metal ones at Petco/petsmart), and have one line going toward the ladder. Double the production.

Oh and it's sometimes better to use other yeast than the packets that come with the hagen unit since those packets can be expired. Check out this for making your own.

-John N.
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Old 06-15-2006, 07:43 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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Alright, I just got back from a whole day out of the house, and found my fishtank a complete mess.

I dosed 1/8 KNO3 and a little less than 1/32 tsp of phosphates. The tank was completely smothered by brownish thin threads, and i have green algae on the tank wall on the back. The threads are especially abundant on the pearl grass and glosso. Also, some pearl grass leaves are covered with a brown substance that can be wiped off. Ludwigia arcuata leaves which were either red or green seem brownish and discolored. To say the least, it looks very unflattering, and i'm not sure what i could have done wrong. But i was expecting it.

Ph 6
KH 3-4
nitrates 10
phosphates 5

My KH used to be 0, but I added a dash or so of baking soda to raise the KH. However, my pH dropped to 6.0, i guess because of my CO2.
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Old 06-16-2006, 05:09 AM   #25 (permalink)
 
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One thing I'm going to recommend, and this is my experience and also some help from Greg, get yourself about 2 or 3 Gatorade containers. I have 3 of them hooked going into one smaller Gatorade bottle. John said 2 connected with a "T" connector. I had it like that and I felt that it wasn't enough. You can try it and if it works for you then good. In my setup, I felt that 2 wasn't enough and that I would probably have a better and even flow of CO2 with 3 bottles.

Anywho...

I mixed 2 cups, 1 tsp & 1/2 tsp of baking soda. I have 1 ladder on one 10G and 1 glass diffuser (that I recently changed from a ladder) on the other. The glass diffuser was going nuts and I got good growth. Actually, good growth on both tanks.

One thing I noticed and from what others have gone through is that if you can pump enough CO2 without affecting the fish, then hell.... GO for it. The more CO2 the better. And you know what... My tanks are fine. I have Glowlights, Flame Tetras, SAE, MTS, Ottos and other snails. None of them go up for air and they eat fine, show great color and they love the plants.

I dose Excel, FLourish, Flourish Iron and Gregs Ferts.

And I'm ALGAE FREE.... Can I get an AMEN?!?!

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Old 06-16-2006, 09:00 AM   #26 (permalink)
 
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you say to inject more co2, but my pH is 6 and my kH is 3-4, isn't that too much CO2? Would that get rid of the algae?

I'm just wondering what I can do to get rid of the algae. Would increasing or decreasing the fertilizer dosing help?
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Old 06-17-2006, 04:31 PM   #27 (permalink)
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For my Hagen Nutrafin ladder, I tilt it to trap the CO2. If I could get a good looking clear cup thing that I could put upside down to permanently trap the bubbles, I would. I mean, why waste the CO2? My goal is to dissolve 100% of the CO2. Why let it go to the surface?

I know that Seachem Excel somehow gets rid of algae. Check with others on this website, but I believe CO2 may work the same way. Make sure the plants have EVERYTHING they need to grow, and they will SUCK UP all the stuff that the algae needs to grow. If there is one deficiency that stunts the growth of the plants, the algae will come along and eat up all the rest of the good stuff in the water.

I hope this is helpful to you. This is how I understand it.



Oh yes, BROTHER DEEPLOVE - algae free!
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Old 07-12-2006, 06:00 PM   #28 (permalink)
 
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So it's been about 5 months since i started up my tank, and unfortunately things are not going as well i hoped. I had a week of two of good growth but the algae has been growing from day 1 it seems. I'm dosing macros and micros and am not sure what is going wrong.

here are my parameters:
2-3 KH
pH 6.4
nitrates 20
phosphates 5

I just did a water change seeing that my nitrates and phosphates were kinda high, but the problems were still present when they were lower. It's hard to keep my water levels consistent in a 10 gallon tank.

I've noticed small patches of blue green algae on my glossostigma, multiple clumbs of greyish staghorn algae growing from the substrate and in my baby tears bush, and there are 1-2 inch green threadlike strands hanging from all my ludwigia plants that are in very poor shape. All the lower leads have died off, and the remaining leaves are patchy, i'm not sure if it's brown algae or just dead patches. My baby tears was growing well for a while but after i thinned it out, the leaves have been growing in very small, and some clumps just melt away completely. There seems to be a lot of dead leaf detritus floating about, and getting tangled up in the thread/hair algae? hanging off of the plants.

please help me.
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:08 PM   #29 (permalink)
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bitternut, one important piece of information we don't have is how much lighting you have, and how long you're using it in a day. Almost every algae can effectively be combatted with a 3 day blackout, followed by a reduction of your photoperiod. I had a photoperiod of 12 hours when I first started, and I had breakouts of algae every now and then. Now with my lights on for 10 hours, I haven't seen any algae in my tanks for a while.
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:34 PM   #30 (permalink)
 
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i have a 36 watt ah supply hood that is on for 10 hours. I used to have it on for 12 but thought i would shorten the photo period but it didn't help much.
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