Rotala macrandra v. 'narrow leaf' aka Rotala magenta - Plant Physiology & Emersed Culture

Lazaro · 08-02-2004, 07:57 PM

On this page,

http://www.aquariumgarden.com/index....hed_plants.php

there pictures of, Rotala Magenta aka Rotala macrandra v. 'narrow leaf', and Rotala Marcandra. I noticed that the Macrandra has a hot pink flare to it, and the Magenta has a more relative orange hue. Do they look the same, in real life, with one just having narrower leaves or is this how the plants would look like next to eachother in real life.

Lazaro · 08-02-2004, 08:02 PM

Let me see if i can do the link right

http://www.aquariumgarden.com/index....hed_plants.php

djlen · 08-06-2004, 11:03 PM

They are very similar in shading in 'real life', but if you get some Magenta and figure out how to grow it, write back and let me know how you did it.
I've been battling this plant for months with little luck under 4watts/gal. and CO2 at 25ppm.
Sometimes you just have to realize that you can't grow certain plants, move on, and cut your losses. I think I'm at that point now.

Len

Lazaro · 08-07-2004, 06:14 PM

Thanks for the reply. I'm interested in trying out R. Magenta, instead of R. Macrandra, because if its smallers leaves more suited for a 20 gallon. If I'm unsucessful, I'll cut my losses too and score some Macrandra from the LFS.

tsunami · 08-07-2004, 08:50 PM

Rotala macrandra var Narrow Leaf will grow in pretty much the same conditions as Rotala macrandra, Rotala wallichii, et al. Give them moderate NO3 (5-10ppm), high PO4 (1.5-2ppm), plenty of light, and plenty of iron (Flourish/TMG). They also seem to like water on the softer side (doesn't have to be SOFT, but not the more extreme GH 12-15+).

If Rotala magenta really does not work out, a more suitable replacement would be Ludwigia arcuata (as they have similar leaf texture and color) which is much easier to grow.

Carlos

Jeff Kropp · 08-08-2004, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lazaro

I'm interested in trying out R. Magenta, instead of R. Macrandra, because if its smallers leaves more suited for a 20 gallon.

There is also Rotala macrandra "green", which is about 1/3 the size of normal R. macrandra in both the stem and leaf. It grows to about the same color as R. indica with the soft open look of R. macrandra. Look at my tank 7/17 in the aquascaping section. R macrandra green is the isolated stand to the left of center.
___
Jeff

ShaneSmith · 01-03-2005, 08:19 AM

I'll agree with proper nutrients Rotala Magenta shouldn't be too difficult. I grow it as a very red plant that turns slightly green when shaded. Beatuiful plant that can be topped over and over without any problems. It does not look much like Rotala Macranda at all, more like Rotala indica or Ludwigia arcuata.

shalu · 02-02-2005, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsunami

Rotala macrandra var Narrow Leaf will grow in pretty much the same conditions as Rotala macrandra, Rotala wallichii, et al. Give them moderate NO3 (5-10ppm), high PO4 (1.5-2ppm), plenty of light, and plenty of iron (Flourish/TMG). They also seem to like water on the softer side (doesn't have to be SOFT, but not the more extreme GH 12-15+).

If Rotala magenta really does not work out, a more suitable replacement would be Ludwigia arcuata (as they have similar leaf texture and color) which is much easier to grow.

Carlos

My experience has been to the contrary as far as low GH goes. Until recently I had no luck growing Rotala macrandra or Rotala magenta. The new growth tips always stunt and the small new leaves are twisted. Even though my tap GH=8, I thought I might try more Ca just in case because the symptoms do look like calcium deficiency. Well, after a month of CaCl2 addition (GH to 13), my rotala macrandra is drop dead gorgeous, blood red, growing/branching like crazy. Rotala magenta is doing much better as well.

tsunami · 02-02-2005, 07:06 PM

Then you have had the opposite experience. I could not grow the Rotalas in Chicago tap water (GH ~13-14) for a very long, yet could always grow them in Miami's GH 5 tap water.

A few months ago, I began to add a 50/50% tap/RO mixture at water changes which has dropped my GH down to around 7. I am now having great success with all the Rotalas I had difficulty growing before in Chitown -- macrandra "Green", Nanjenshan, pusilla, sp. Goias, and rotundifolia "Green," etc. I haven't tried Rotala macrandra (red broad) in here again (have it emersed in Miami, actually), but the layout just doesn't call for it... but I am tempted.

Perhaps Ca/Mg relationship is the culprit and not actual hardness? Hmm.

Carlos

shalu · 02-03-2005, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsunami

Perhaps Ca/Mg relationship is the culprit and not actual hardness? Hmm.

Carlos

That's what I was thinking as well. Separate accurate measurements of Ca/Mg require expensive kits, so I am not sure what exactly the values are in my tap. I am also doing an experiment with partial RO with small Ca addition to see how it turns out for me, so it will be softer water with higher Ca/Mg ratio(actually it might be any other elements in tap water, like Ca/TDS? because some people report Ca/K also matters, but not in my case). But it is a low tech tank w/o CO2 so it would take a long time to see the effects.