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DIY Mini Canister Filter for nano tanks

17K views 22 replies 17 participants last post by  ChrisGray 
#1 ·
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#12 ·
I've been looking for something like this for my 10gal! It should be very simple to hook up a DIY CO2 generator to this, possibly just by adding a barbed fitting to the bottom of the canister...maybe even putting a fine airstone/diffusor on the inside to break up the bubbles before hitting the media.
 
#13 ·
This looks like an interesting DIY. The only part I would be concerned with is the suction cup used to brace the intake tube. If the suction cup came lose the tube could break the seal to the canister. Maybe a stronger brace could be made with some spacers and a few of the stronger zip-ties. I would not want to come home to an empty tank if that seal let lose.
 
#17 ·
Oh this is great and exactly what I've searched for unsuccessfully. I happen to have 3 perfectly good pumps laying around too (all came from those tabletop fountains that look great in the store but....). This will work great for my 1.5 betta. The spray bar in the turtle setup looks like a simple bubble bar / air wand.. something I might try whenever I set up a paludarium.
 
#18 ·
I've put together a mini filter set up for my tank and can now share a few (hopefully helpful) tips for anyone else who plans on doing the same.

This is for my 1.5 betta tank. Since this tank is so small and the fish is a betta (who generally don't care to be freaked out by hard splashing currents), I only need mild filtration and a gentle flow.

Tip: Take your parts to the store with you.
  1. You'll need the correct size of tubing to fit either over or into the pump's outlet.
  2. You will need the correct size brackets (called L-joints) in the first linked article.
  3. The container you use will need to be large enough to hold the pump and media (filter, etc.).

Tip: Cutting wires?
  1. Although this was not mentioned directly in the article, you will need to cut a cord, so having wire cutters handy will make this much simpler. Mine happen to be rusted out so I used a simple blade from a razor knife to skim off the outer cord cover and inner wire covers. Works like a charm, just be careful.
  2. You will need to purchase something to reconnect the cut cord wires. If you don't already have these on hand, ask for wire connectors or 'nuts'. They simply screw loose wires together. You could also try a combo of butt splices and heat shrink tubing. The wire nuts run about $2, the splices about $1 and the heat shrink tubing about $2.

Tip: Parts to silicone checklist.
  1. Lid of the container where the pump tube pushes through -- at least the top.
  2. Lid of the container where the cord goes through -- top and bottom.
  3. Side of container where bracket or tubing goes through -- inside and out.
  4. Any holes in the lid (rubbermaid will often have a tiny hole in the top).

Tip: Where to find these items? You can find most everything at your local home improvement store. But more specifically:
  1. Find those connectors (L-joints) in the section where they sell equipment to water the lawn (like timed watering systems and drip irrigation).
  2. Find wire connectors or 'nuts' in electrical. The butt splices and heat shrink tubing may also be found there.
  3. Find silicone near or in the paint section. Don't forget to get 100% silicone.
  4. The pump? Mine came from decorative tabletop fountains, but you can likely find individual pumps in the garden center.
  5. I didn't find ceramic rings specifically, so I did some subbing. I used nylon spacers found in plumbing (look in the small drawers or ask). They are inert so I was comfortable with these. I also used some filter (filler) that I've had luck with in another tank called "poly-fil NU-Foam" (as with any media, rinse before use). You'll find this at a large department store like Wal-Mart in the crafts, fabric or pillows section. A large 1" thick package is about $2. Lastly, I put a sprinkle of activated carbon on the bottom which I keep for general purposes.
  6. Other store: tubing, container (I used a simple rubbermaid container for $2 with a tight fitting lid) and the poly-fil above (this is optional).

Tip: The water isn't flowing / pump's not working.
  1. Double check, as those small pumps don't make a lot of fuss. Test your DIY setup outside of the tank first -- in a sink with the intake tubing in a glass of water.
  2. Be sure you reconnected the wires correctly -- red to red, etc.
  3. As with any pump, be sure there's plenty of water around it. They aren't meant to be run dry and can burn out. See next:
  4. Be sure the container is filled with water before turning the pump on. You can shoot water through the intake tube to get rid of any air in it as well as in the container (try one of those clear plastic condiment bottles with an inverted funnel screw-on top). The system should be closed and "air-free".
  5. Did your silicone cure for 24 hours? It's touchable after 30 minutes but not cured for a day. This system needs a good seal to operate. (See parts to silicone.)

Tip: Miscellaneous...
  1. If you're concerned about the possibility of water leaking and oozing down the pump's cord, wrap a rubber band around the container enclosing the cord, then jimmy the cord up at an angle so water cannot traverse it.
  2. Don't cut the tubing too short. Keep it long until after you've got everything situated and running.
  3. As a side note, I really found the L-joints or any connectors to be optional. I'm not using one on the side (a rubber band angles my tubing like I need it). I am, however, using connectors at the top where the tubings enter the water so I have better control over their placement.

I guess that's it! It's still a simple project, doesn't cost much and doesn't take much time. I spent about $5 (I already had several items) and a total of about 1.5 hours. Next time I'll have wire cutters and will be much more familiar with the setup so it should take a total of 15-30 minutes tops.
 
#20 ·
Hi crono,

I'm not sure what material this container is, but it's a typical rubbermaid dish. One would assume "rubber" but it could be a pvc variation (?), plastic... I use GE Silicone II for Kitchen & Bath 100% Silicone sealant -- comes in a squeeze tube (as opposed to those push tubes you need a gun for).

It's sealed really well on the second try by adding a little tissue to the mix. I know it sounds odd :) but adhesion was better this way since the plastic is so slippery and non-gripping. On another unrelated project I actually dripped candle wax to begin a seal then sealed that with silicone.

Did that answer your question? :)
 
#21 ·
i've only few experience and knowledge with silicon, and i thought silicon couldn't adhere on plastics materials due to the plastic is so slippery !!!
and i see what silicon you use
i will soon make the experience with plastics materials, and i'll try to use silicon

thank for your answer
crono
PS : sorry if my sentence can be woolly or approximate, it's because i'm french lol
 
#22 ·
Target (in USA) sells a plastic container for this DIY

NICE!!!

Plattykins said:
Would a little Tupperware container work?
I'd looked at the 501 ZooMed Canister but balked at the price. Also balked at the price of just their pump. Desk fountain pump may be a nice, cheap option.

As for container, I'd found one at Target store (USA) in the kitchen food containers / shelf organizer section that I thought would work well. If I recall correctly, it is square, has rubber seal and 4 locking tabs.
 
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