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Old 06-04-2006, 11:48 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Why dont you put the plants you lvoe most straight in the tank instead of using big stem plant and then remove it later? I m a beginner and i tied my moss straight to the wood . So, Excessive lightsmeans more algae and less lights less algae ? or is it the other way round ?
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:31 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kweeheng
Why dont you put the plants you lvoe most straight in the tank instead of using big stem plant and then remove it later? I m a beginner and i tied my moss straight to the wood . So, Excessive lightsmeans more algae and less lights less algae ? or is it the other way round ?
You should pack a tank full of plants when starting out. That allows the plants to "outcompete" the algae. As an added bonus, the faster growing plants will reproduce faster and allow you to either sell them to get more "expensive" plants or give them away to others who are starting up tanks.

The more light you have over a tank the more chances you have to get algae. Light drives the plants uptake of nutrients (CO2, NO3, PO4, etc) so the higher light leaves you less wiggle room on fertilizing. I have found the hardest part of my high ligt tanks is maintainng CO2 levels, even though I have a pressurized system. More light is not always better and I prefer to keep my tanks right around 2wpg or so I have not found many plant that will not grow in this light range though some do grow better with a bit more light.
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:38 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Much agreed with what Matt said. I forget to fert every day, but my plants do well as long as i keep the Duck weed at bay. I do wish I had some other kelven, alittle red would be nice.
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:46 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Much agreed with what Matt said. I forget to fert every day, but my plants do well as long as i keep the Duck weed at bay. I do wish I had some other kelven, alittle red would be nice.
You should be able to find some GE Fresh and Saltwater bulbs online. I don't remember where I found mine right now but it didn't take too much searching. You have the T-8 lights don you?
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:48 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Yeah, i think so. Whateve those big cheapo light fixture hold.

I have some GE bulbs on the 37 and they really help bring out the red plants.
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Old 06-05-2006, 11:12 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I have two extra 50 lb bags of soil master select that I am willing to exchange for some plants at the June meeting if anyone is interested or possibly donate to the club. Anyone have suggestions for the 125 gallon tank for the June meeting. I am going to make this a discus tank as well. I do not want to get to out of hand on the plants though. I want the two to flow together and make this a nice presentation tank. It is after all in the dinning room.
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Old 06-05-2006, 11:15 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I have some swords I could part with as well as some java fern.
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:04 PM   #28 (permalink)
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So, Whats the most important substance in the tank ? the CO2,NO3 and PO4. Whats the meaning of NO3 and PO4 ? Where can i egt his kind of substance? I saw a bottle of liquid which gives all this nutrient inw ater. but how much is too much and how can i measure how many drops of these nutrients in my tank ? How do i calculate how much light is enough for my tank ?
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:15 AM   #29 (permalink)
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So, Whats the most important substance in the tank ? the CO2,NO3 and PO4. Whats the meaning of NO3 and PO4 ? Where can i egt his kind of substance? I saw a bottle of liquid which gives all this nutrient inw ater. but how much is too much and how can i measure how many drops of these nutrients in my tank ? How do i calculate how much light is enough for my tank ?
The first post in this thread lists some of the abbreviations that are used in planted tanks and may be helpful to you: https://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...ed-on-apc.html

Everything kind of goes hand in hand as far as "substances" are concerned with light being the most important. Without enough light, not many things will grow regardless of how many nutrients you add to the tank. Light will determine how fast the plants (and algae) grow in your tank. The more light you have the more fertilizer you will need to add to your tank.

A carbon source is second on the list of importance to plants. Once you get about 2 watts per gallon you need to look into adding a source of carbon to your tank. Pressurized CO2 is the best but you can also go with DIY CO2 or Seachem's Excel as a carbon source.

Once you have addressed the light and carbon level, nitrates (NO3) phosphates (PO4) and potassium (K) come into play. They are all required by plants and are considered macros. While nitrates and phosphates are considered "bad" in a fish only tank, they are very important in a planted tank. Micros include iron, manganese, copper, etc and are usually provided by a "Trace" fertilizer like Seachem's Flourish, Tropica Master Grow (TMG) or Plantex CSM+B.

You can purchase most of the above from Greg Watson's website, http://www.gregwatson.com/products.asp?pg=2 in 1 pound quantities. You would be interested in Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) and monopotassium phosphate (KH2PO4) for your macros (note that both of these fertilizers will add K to your tank) and Plantex CSM+B for your micro additions.

If you live in the Cincinnati/Dayton area I have extra fertilizers I can sell in smaller quantities. The prices are the same as Greg's since we (SWOAPE) purchased them from him, but the quantities are smaller. Just let me know how much you need.

Some info about your tanks wouldbe a big help. If you are not using CO2 you may be able to get by without adding any of the above items and rely on fish waste and food to provide fertilizer for your plants.
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Old 06-06-2006, 04:03 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ctmpwrdcamry
I have some swords I could part with as well as some java fern.
Bring them to the June meeting and we can work something out.
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