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Old 02-01-2006, 01:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Just two random thoughts (having killed plenty of shrimp randomly with water changes). Personally I have questioned my tap (perhaps the city flushed a line near my house, and cranked up the clorimine just to be "safe"), I have also questioned my declorinator...

I used to fert right after waterchanges (as in seconds after). I know my declorinator (Prime) will bind nitrates to some extent (NO3 is -0- after the fert is added). I started to wonder if all that fert was in some way nutralizing my declorinator. I do not know the answer - but now do not add fert till the next morning.
That said, I also try to make it a point to do my weekly water change a day (or two) before adding fish now.

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Old 02-01-2006, 01:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I've never owned Rummy Nose Tetras before, but let's take the delicate Neon Tetra for example. A normal complaint is you buy a dozen and only a couple are still alive after 2 weeks. This is probably due to lack of acclimation. In your case, you probably acclimated the fish to your tank's water when you got them, but the large water change soon after acclimation probably shocked their systems.

I acclimated a 3 month old Neon Tetra (that I raised from an egg) to my upstairs hi-tech planted tank's water about a month ago. The Neon came from RO water. Since I only do water changes every other week on this tank, the Neon probably had several days to get used to the water before the next water change. I don't do anything out of the ordinary when doing water changes on this tank now that the newly acclimated Neon lives here. What is an ordinary water change for me? The water is 30%, dechlorinated, & the temp is measured to match the tank's temp.

I agree with Damon that a waiting period between acclimation and the next water change should take place and the temp of the new water should match the temp of the water in the tank. This should avoid major early swings in water parameters.

If Pete's water has a pH of 7.7 and your planted tank has CO2 injected, then your water is most probably on the acidic side, 6.something (that's my educated guess with Ohio tap water). A pH swing of 1.0 could be enough harm Tetras. If this is true, your fish may have gone from alkaline water (Pete's water) to acidic (CO2 injected) then back to alkaline (post tap water change) after the 50% water change then back to acidic after the CO2 dropped the pH back to the level it was before. Not to mention tap water has a higher pH straight out of the tap than it does if it sits a day or two. Also, my pH controller only fluctuates about .2-.3 before kicking on again. Even at night when the CO2 is off, it still only goes up .2-.3.

The point I'm trying to make is these fish have been on a rollercoaster ride of water quality!

Since I will be breeding at least 5 different species of Tetras this year, I hope to master the RO to tap water acclimation concept. One step further, all of the Tetras will be going into my hi-tech planted tanks only. I hope to be of more use in the not so distant future.
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Old 02-02-2006, 06:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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That is news to me, i never measured it. That could be part of the problem, that would be alot of chlorine in the water.

I wouldn't doubt it, there are many swings those fish went though. Right now i am still at one 50% water change a week. I should have waited longer for the first water change, but to late now.

I will let the tank settle back and hopefully get some next month. Hopefully ill have better luck.

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Old 02-02-2006, 07:40 AM   #14 (permalink)
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When a LFS tells me the fish came from a supplier who kept them in RO water that is usually the curse of death. They think they're impressing me but as discussed the acclimation is that much harder. I personally have very little trouble acclimating rummynoses, but cardinal tetras are a whole different thing. I've recently switched to 24/7 UV sterlization for GW I just couldn't get rid of. One of the add'l benefits of the UV is it will also destroy pathogens in the water column. Prior to the UV whenever I added cardinals to the water inevitably a few would develop an infection of some type lose color and die within a few days. After two weeks the survival rate was around 50%, after that they are actual very solid long-term. Since adding the UV I added a new batch of cardinals and none of them died or got any infection. I would have to do this a few more times to put alot of validity into it, but I believe the UV has helped.

BTW - I acclimate all fish at least 2 hours either by drip or slowly putting some water in the LFS bag.
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