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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
For those interested, this is the sump design I came up with:


Filtersocks for mechanical filtration, Red-X filtermat for mechanical and biological (easy to clean) and Superbio (sintered glass) for biological. The CO2 and UV will most likely be plumbed into a bypass on one of the main pumps instead of a separate pumps like in the drawing.

Superbio:


Air will be ran at night to improve filtration and purigen will be added to polish the water.

Please comment!
 

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4 things

1 I would have the overflow discharge into the filter socks.
2 I would place the heaters on the opposite side as there will be less bubble/turblance to deal with.
3 yoy wil most likly need more baffles to prevent micro bubbles
4 rather then running a closed loop for co2. You should just run it with a side branch of your return lines. This will help prevent cavatation in the return pumps.

Otherwise it looks good.

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
4 things

1 I would have the overflow discharge into the filter socks.
2 I would place the heaters on the opposite side as there will be less bubble/turblance to deal with.
3 yoy wil most likly need more baffles to prevent micro bubbles
4 rather then running a closed loop for co2. You should just run it with a side branch of your return lines. This will help prevent cavatation in the return pumps.

Otherwise it looks good.

Sent from my SGH-T599N using Tapatalk
As mentioned in my previous post, I will add the CO2 in a bypass. The drawing was before I thought of that.

The filtersocks aren't below the overflow because this way I can use more filtersocks (less often cleaning) and it is easier to take them out.

The heaters might be a good idea. The idea behind them on that side was that that side never runs dry...
 

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If your pumps run dry you have a lot more to worry about then heaters. :) You should be cleaning your.filter socks atleast weekly. You do not want organic matter decaying in them. 2 large socks have manyore thousand gallons.of flow capcity then you need. Also for noise control it is better to have them above the water line. I would rather have drip tray with felt then severL socks. Easier and faster to clean.

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The idea behind the filter socks was a constant removal of organics. I was thinking about cleaning them daily but I want to build it in a way that it doesn't matter if I go away for a week. I don't know how fast they will clog. I guess it depends on how many micron I take as well...

You said: 'for noise control it is better to have them above the water line'. How do you mean?
 

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First comment: Darn dutch.... Even your drawings look better than ours. :)

Second: I actually disagree with Tab on all counts.

1: by not dumping in the sock, you have a small refugium to catch unplained fry.
2: the bean-animal will greatly minimize bubble turbulence, and the heated water will benefit the bacteria
3: freshwater doesn't microbubble like salt.
4: its not recommended to branch the return in syphon drain systems since you can cause the outflow to fluctuat and cause unbalancing. An isolated loop shouldn't have that problem.

Personally, I'd drop the socks and put in an HMF wall of Poret foam. You'll get accelerated decomp in a sock with all the trapped debre getting heavy flow over it. If it settles in the small refugium, it will decomp slower.
 

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The idea behind the filter socks was a constant removal of organics. I was thinking about cleaning them daily but I want to build it in a way that it doesn't matter if I go away for a week. I don't know how fast they will clog. I guess it depends on how many micron I take as well...

You said: 'for noise control it is better to have them above the water line'. How do you mean?
Hits a soft object rather then the water surface. It also helps prevent bubbles which can increase noise.

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The overflow pipes will end below the surface to minimize CO2 degassing. So I think this will be more silent than splashing in socks. The entire sump will be sealed for that purpose as well.

I guess you come from a salt water tank don't you? I work with salt water quite often as well and micro bubbles are way more of a problem compared to fresh water. But perhaps I'm wrong.

First comment: Darn dutch.... Even your drawings look better than ours. :)

Second: I actually disagree with Tab on all counts.

1: by not dumping in the sock, you have a small refugium to catch unplained fry.
2: the bean-animal will greatly minimize bubble turbulence, and the heated water will benefit the bacteria
3: freshwater doesn't microbubble like salt.
4: its not recommended to branch the return in syphon drain systems since you can cause the outflow to fluctuat and cause unbalancing. An isolated loop shouldn't have that problem.

Personally, I'd drop the socks and put in an HMF wall of Poret foam. You'll get accelerated decomp in a sock with all the trapped debre getting heavy flow over it. If it settles in the small refugium, it will decomp slower.
Haha, thanks for the compliment!

The Red-X in the drawing is like a HMF. The socks are there to prevent it from getting dirty.

Point 4 is a good one, I didn't think about that. But would it really make a difference with a bean animal overflow? I need to close the full siphon a bit more perhaps but flow will stay the same isn't it?
 

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Most of my exp does come from salt. For years I worked a custone aquarium shop. Built more tanks then I can count.

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The super bio filter media and the Red-X arrived. I'll make the sump modular so I can change things to experiment.

I ordered 2 LED floodlights as supplemental lighting and ordered three DC6000 pumps. I'll be using 2 of them. They are adjustable from 1500GPH (6000LPH) to about a quarter of that. So the flow will be anywhere between 600-2500 GPH (2500-10000LPH) total.

For temperature control I ordered an ATC-800. Which will control 4x300W and perhaps a cooler later, although I don't expect heat to be a problem. In my previous house which was way more hot, my tank almost never exceeded 90 (32 celcius) degree. And was never that temperature for more than 2 weeks.

For the tank I want an optiwhite front and side glass and 'Black Pearl Glass' on the back and on the right side between the overflow box and the main tank. I found a builder, but didn't checked prices yet. First I go backpacking Malaysia!

Two things I didn't decided yet:

The frame... Aluminum vs stainless steel. With the latter being better, but more expensive as well. Would aluminum be suffice or not strong enough?

The second is how to setup flow in a tank with an overflow. The overflow will be over the entire right side. So I was thinking about two outflows on the left back corner with a large diameter. One pointed to the front and a little bit to the right to make the water flow from left to right. The other to the left glass, so the water will go down, and there will be flow on the bottom as well. I don't want the outflow to extend to the bottom, so there must be a good way to setup flow to eliminate dead spots. Any better solutions?
 

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What do you mean by the frame? You mean the stand that it will sit on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
That was what I meant indeed
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I moved to my new house and placed my old tank back for now. I already bought the pumps (really silent!), LED floodlights (really bright!) and some other stuff for my new tank. The final measurements are 195x70x75 (77x28x30), A little high for maintenance, but it will look much more impressive I guess. Time to think about the style/colors of the stand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I was calculating, the overflow pipe diameter etc. I was wondering, about the return pipes. Each return pipe will get a return pump that pumps max 6000 LPH (1500 GPH). After losing some to head pressure etc. What would be the minimum/ideal pipe diameter for the return pipes? I was calculating, the overflow pipe diameter etc. I was wondering, about the return pipes. Each return pipe will get a return pump that pumps max 6000 LPH (1500 GPH). After losing some to head pressure etc. What would be the minimum/ideal pipe diameter for the return pipes?
I was calculating, the overflow pipe diameter etc. I was wondering, about the return pipes. Each return pipe will get a return pump that pumps max 6000 LPH (1500 GPH). After losing some to head pressure etc. What would be the minimum/ideal pipe diameter for the return pipes?
 

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Hi Yo-han,

Very excited for you and your new build. I would use NO LESS than 1" and 1.5" for the intakes would be ideal if you can get away with it. Outflow will always be limited by intake flow, so 1.5" would provide plenty or flexibility. That said, I have 1" on my diy herbie on my 220 with no issues.

Also, my tank is 6x3 and for awhile I used a single ati 36" 8x39w while the other was in the shop..

I just raised the fixture to help with spread and increased the intensity. This worked well for 3-4weeks iirc b4 I got the other fixture back. Really depends on the plant species chosen/used.

Best of luck!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Thanks!



Makes you wonder whether to go for an open top again?:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well the tank will be 195x80x65 after all:)

About the fish, I was able to import some Dawkinsia rohani via the shop I work at, but those won't make it to my tank. I placed them in a tank with a Hygrophila corymbosa, the next day there was only a bare stem left, haha, no option for my planted tank!

I also made a rough sketch about the scape of the tank:


In between there will be all sorts of Anubias and Bucephalandra. The stems in the background are likely to change and mixed here and there. I love to test some Sygonanthus macrocaulon and Eriocaulon setaceum.

In between all the Bolbitis and needle leaf java fern I think I'll add some Ceratopteris thalictroides to bright it up a little. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Yes, I work at an lfs which has apex and love the system, much better than profilux IMO. But this will be too expensive for now. For now I control everything:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Ordered the tank and frame last week and already received the baffles for my sump. Things I need to do before the tank arrives is plumbing for cold an warm tap water and a pipe to the sewer to ditch the old water. All the plumbing through the wall tank <-> sump. Need to get more substrate and some rocks. Hope I've enough wood and I'm turning up the plant production to have a nice amount of plant mass to start with. After all is placed I need to fabricate a cabinet around it, but this will be later. Man, can't wait!!!

Have some Eriocaulons and Syngonanthus in trail. Would love to use them but I won't be using RO, so they need to be able to survive KH 7-8 or somthing else will take there place.

Really love the APEX, browsing the internet it seems quite popular in the states, wonder why almost no one uses it over here...
 
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