[Bert H]

Just thought I'd share an experience I just recently had...

I recently changed my filtration system on my 29 gal from an ac hob to a rena xp1. With that I also changed my method of co2 injection from bubbling into the intake of the ac to an external reactor (http://www.aquaticscape.com/article...fficient than injecting your co2 into an hob.

 

[pineapple]

Interesting.

An aside, when switching from the AC HOB filter to the XP1 did you run both filters at the same time until the XP1 had developed its load of denitrifying bacteria, or did you switch them without overlap?

I am thinking of switching one of my tanks from a Fluval 304 to an Eheim 2224 or an XP2 and was wondering how to make the change-over more tolerable for the aquatic environment.

Andrew Cribb

 

[Bert H]

An aside, when switching from the AC HOB filter to the XP1 did you run both filters at the same time until the XP1 had developed its load of denitrifying bacteria, or did you switch them without overlap?

I considered doing that, but then realized I didn't have the space on the back wall of the tank to keep the hob. Moving it would have caused other headaches. On an older, established, heavily planted tank, I didn't think it would be much of an issue.

 

[Corigan]

I am thinking of switching one of my tanks from a Fluval 304 to an Eheim 2224 or an XP2 and was wondering how to make the change-over more tolerable for the aquatic environment.

If possible I would keep the fluval running and run the new filter along side of it. This would give bacteria time to build up in the new cannister before removing the old one.

Matt

 

[pineapple]

Thanks Matt and Bert,

Space is a valued commodity here in NYC.

I'll try and overlap for a week or so and then remove the Fluval. That seems to be the most natural method...

Andrew Cribb

 

[dennis]

You could also just switch over as much media as possible, especially if you have bioballs or ceramic rings. If you don't, try adding them to your current filter for a couple weeks.

 

[pineapple]

Dennis,

I thought of that too. If I get an XP2 it seems to come without much bio-media and I could fill it with some of the rings from the Fluval. The Eheim 2224 usually comes with media which I rather like. If I get the Eheim I might stick with that. The Fluval is not very good at removing fine detritus - but the Eheim 2224 that I have on another tank does a very good job. From what I hear of the XP2s I am tempted to give them a shot... somewhat undecided though.

Andrew Cribb

 

[dennis]

I have 1 fluval 104 and I like it. I have never had anything other than HOB's so I can't compare. I understand what you mean about the media. Regardless of what filter you get I would add the old rings. You only need to add them for a couple of weeks, then remove them and add a little more of the new media (you could set aside a littl eof the new fro this down the road). However, as someone already stater, if the tank is well established and well planted, I would not worry about it

 

[Error]

I am thinking of switching one of my tanks from a Fluval 304 to an Eheim 2224 or an XP2 and was wondering how to make the change-over more tolerable for the aquatic environment.

If possible I would keep the fluval running and run the new filter along side of it. This would give bacteria time to build up in the new cannister before removing the old one.

Matt

Biological preparation of filters is something that I never placed much stock in or had a problem with. Bacteria clings to all surfaces in your tank, I have always been fine switching to an unconditioned filter.

 

[pineapple]

Thanks Error. I'm going to think this one over during this North East sopping wet camping weekend while out on some lakesides hunting driftwood...

Andrew

 

[plantbrain]

So I guess CO2 was the issue after all then huh Bert?

Hehe, same old crap, CO2, CO2 and more CO2.
Might wanna lower it down though

Folks can use small canister filters in the same manner for a CO2 reactor.

For prevention of dosing errors and when using variable CO2 sources like DIY, you will want to turn the powerhead driving the CO2 into a reactor off at night.

Then the CO2 will not have a chance to build up to 90ppm and may only get up to 30ppm during the day along with all the plant uptake which also reduces/drains the CO2 level.

At night the plants are not draining the CO2 out so it'll build up higher.

If you have an efficent CO2 system and proper settings, the pH will vary much day/night though.

Still, I'd much prefer to add something when the plants need it and be able to dose a little higher than normal during the day. It adds an element of safety which is far more important than pH stability which does not help fish in any way with using CO2.

Regards,
Tom Barr