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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have algae growing on the inside of the tank. The water is clear once I clean it off the glass but I have to clean it off every single day. Nitrate and Nitrites test at near zero so I can't figure it out. I don't want to use an algaecide because I do have snails. The one cool thing is getting to see the snail trails up the sides every day but I could still do without. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Nitrates at zero in a cycled tank is rare. Is this a new tank? Could be diatoms. Do you know what kind of algae or have a pic? I wouldn't use a algaecide.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
In all Fairness the nitrates aren't zero. According to my test strips they are near the bottom of the spectrum. Nitrites are close to zero. Here are a couple of the picture I have taken. It is in both my 10 gallon and my 120 gallon. Plus my 10 gallon has an ongoing battle with beard algae. I can't get rid of any of it. I would love some help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The big tank has been up for a year. The big tank has four Amazon swords, some broad ludwigia, rotala and jungle vals. I have a Finnex 24/7 and a four build T5. The T5 has on,y been up for three months. I didn't have any problems until I switched from a wet dry to a new FX6.

The small tank has been up for five months and it has a finnex ray for lighting. No problems, except beard algae that I controlled with flag fish, until I transplanted some rotala. Both blooms hit quickly.

I use Excel on water changes but not much else.

Need to get rid of this stuff fast. I've used a pyrogens filter in the past and could again but I need to kill the current bloom first. Thanks for any advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I know exactly how it started. I got a bloom in the small tank and took a Marino ball out of it and put it in the big tank. Damn. Now I need to get rid of it. I miss my nice tanks.

The pics were all taken today.
 

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The length of photo period and actual plant mass is important. You didn't really give that info.

Large tank. Is 24/7 on its mode or a timer? Additional light added seems like it would be alot.

A ray would be alot of light for a 10g. So again length of photo period would be important.

Its sounds like transferring may be correct if you moved some stems. But this dosent answer why you got it in the first place.
Par and plant mass will drive your nutrient needs. Your not low light in 10 and probably not in the larger tank. You didn't mention macro or micro so im assuming your not using any.

I assume your using prime as well at wc. Excel lasts about 24hrs in the tank so if your using it as an algaecide. Once a week at wc at recommended dose will not do much.

You think it started in small tank. Very possible because of ray. You also need to look at any possible dead spots.

Get photo period lowered. Large wc. Filter maintenance. Any plants or deco that can be removed and cleaned is where I would start. A fts pic of each tank wound help.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not sure what you mean by photo period and I don't know what you mean by fts photo.

The ray on the 10 id the 18" and i bought it so that I could do high light plants like hair grass. The 24/7 is in 24/7 mode but the big tank is a 120 tall so there wasn't enough light reaching the bottom of the tank. I don't have a par meter but did experiments. I will turn the lights off in the little tank and remove the plants, they are looking pretty shabby, just a couple of crypts at this point. My biggest concern is the big tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks. Small tank is on 12 hours. I'm going to turn it off and let the plants fend for themselves until I get the Cyano under control there. The big tank has the 24/7 cycling and the t5 ten hours. CO2 is on 10 hours per day as well. I'll try to get an fts tonight but if not it will be Wednesday.
 

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Besides turning the lights off, some folks recommend covering the tank for a complete black out for several days. I think Tom Barr does. I am not suggesting it, just quoting what others recommend.

Fortunately, the algae outbreak in my new tank cleared up before I had to take drastic measures...

You will lick it, hang in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have cut the T5 and CO2 to four hours per day on the big tank. Did a 25% water change. There is some improvement but it is still there. I also thinned out the pants and cleaned off as much of the gunk as I could. Not growing as fast but still there. The small tank has not had light in a week and looks pretty good. The Rotala look great and the anubias still have some remnants but not bad.
 

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My experience with Cyano

The first time I had it it came from where the substrate meets the glass then slowly made it's way on top of the substrate. I put tape around the bottom of the tank so you could not see where the the substrate from side on but you could still see the top of the substrate. This stopped the issue completely. Reason it appeared there was because the substrate was not all that breathable and did not allow water flow or oxygen which is where anaerobic bacteria thrives and all it needed was light. But I took it's light source away with the tape. It has never returned.

Next story

This happened again in another tank but had gotten slightly out of control. Killed it with 3% hydrogen peroxide at 1ml per gallon. left for 24 hours then did large water change. you might get a very slight ammonia spike but it will correct itself in a couple of days. Followed by tape again.I should mention that cyano does not like white vinegar as like H202, vinegar is a oxidizer. You can dose your tank with white vinegar at 5mls per 50L daily and spot spray it on the cyano with a syringe when you dose it. Won't hurt the fish but don't do it long term as it will lower your PH slowly but surely. Once killed you can correct whatever started it. Even if you don't introduce it to your tank it can somehow induce itself if parameters are favourable for it to thrive. This is what I think anyway.
 
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