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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just lucked out and got a 10 gallon tank with a new hood for it plus a sponge filter, and heater, all for $20. So, now I need something to set it on. I have enough left over 3/4 birch plywood left from my last cabinet, so I will start making one for this tank too. Here is the sketch I will follow:


The bottom will be raised up enough to allow me to install four leveling feet - http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3986, from my local Woodcraft store. This will be a first for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I bought the leveling feet today, from Woodcraft Store near me. They are extremely nice, rugged and great for this use. They support the cabinet by the sides with most of the weight taken not by the attaching screws, but by a lip on the metal bracket. And, you drill a hole thru the bottom of the cabinet to get access to the adjusting screws with an allen wrench which is in the package. All, for just $15 for a package of 4. Here they are:




I wish I had heard of these a few years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Today I found I have enough left over oak veneered plywood to make this, so I began cutting. I have the sides, the bottom and the narrow strip at the top cut out, and the leveling feet installed:


With any luck I will have it all assembled tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Today, I got the main body of the stand assembled. Tomorrow, the door and edge banding on the raw plywood edges.

Before the back is on. This is assembled with screws and glue.


With the back on. The edge banding I'm using is from Woodcraft, and is real birch veneer with iron-on glue on the back. The screws are a special kind, having finishing head size heads, so they drive easily to below the surface, with a minimum diameter hole to fill.


This is the type screws I'm using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Today I got the door installed and trimmed to fit, and now it is ready for staining. Here it is with the tank on it, and located where I want it (subject to negotiations with the wife.)


The inside looks like:


And, a detail of the edge banding - applied with an ordinary clothing iron.
 

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very nicely done.
i see were too good for cinder blocks and 2x4's.
when does mass production begin? can i preorder? lol.
if i built one i wouldnt be able to sleep well knowing i built it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anyone (almost) can build this with complete safety. The weight of the tank is carried only by the sides, with the top attached on top of the sides, so no joint is carrying any of the weight. You could put the door on the outside instead of inset in the sides, by having the top overlap the front by at least 3/4 inch. The back can be 1/4" thick material attached against the outside of the sides instead of inset between them. As long as you use yellow carpenter's glue you can nail it together or screw it together. And, the edge banding just irons on to the raw plywood edges, if you want a more finished look. The leveling feet attach extremely easily, with no careful measuring required. Hinges are easy if you overlap the door instead of insetting it.

Of course cinder blocks and 2 x 4's also work, and some people like that look too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No formica! I will be staining it to match the stand for the other tank in the room photo. I like formica, but given that I have to work in a crowded garage, with few power tools, formica isn't practical for me. And, both my wife and I like natural woods better anyway.
 

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I like the leveling feet
Most DIY stands forget the feet
My last DIY stand was for a ADA tank and getting it level was a must.
Wish I had those availble to me back then, the leveling feet I have have an insert screw that you drill a hole into the wood and insert the female part, then thread the male leveling screw.

Nice stand by the way, wish my wood working skill were at that level. I have to paint my DIY stands.
 
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