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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have a couple of questions on building an aquarium stand. I'm planning a stand for a 72 gallon bowfront.

First, is it possible to put the cabinet on legs? I'm thinking of a plywood case attached to either a separate base or attached to 4 feet (like bun feet but a different design). Or a frame and panel with mortise and tenon construction. Can any of those designs support the weight of the tank?

Second, I would like to make to cabinet rectangular, but have a curved top to match the bow of the tank. Any problems with the extra overhang and the tank weight?

Thanks for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Dennis,

The tank is 48" long. It's 18" wide at the center of the bowfront and 12" wide on each end.

This is similar to what I had in mind for the post and rail cabinet. The face of the cabinet would be flat and just the top would be curved. So are the posts supporting most of the weight on this type of construction and the rails are holding everything together?



Thanks for offering your help!! :D I'm still pretty new to woodworking, but it's a goal of mine to get into fine woodworking. I've got a garage full of tools, so I'm only limited by time and skill level at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Dennis,

I do have some questions about mortise and tenon joints. I've noticed that some people use a haunched m&t on the apron rail, even on a solid wood top, why is that? I was thinking a full-height tenon on the apron would be the way to go. What do you think?

On the center leg, I'm thinking there probably isn't one on the back of the piece in the photo, but I should include one in my design. I was thinking a bridle joint on the apron rail. Would you do a lap joint on the lower rail or a couple of m&t joints here.

I haven't decided what kind of wood to use yet, but if I'm not able to find it in the thickness I need for the legs will it be alright to laminate two thinner boards together? I've heard that 2x4s glued together are just as strong, if not stronger, than a solid 4x4, is that true?

This is really cool of you to offer your expertise on woodworking. I really appreciate it! BTW, we were just installing 220V in the garage today for my new bandsaw. I can't wait to use it! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would actually not go with a full height tenon. Your tenon should stop about 1/2" from the top and bottom of the board. This captures the tenon more, making a stronger joint structurally. Also, having the mortise come out the top of the leg would make the mortise much weaker.
Good point! I didn't think of that. How do you feel about loose tenons vs. integral tenons -- equal in strength or about the same?

It might be easier just to make a M/T joint for both the upper and lower apron rails.
I'm wondering how deep to make the mortises if I did it this way. The center leg might be 3" wide. With a mortise on each side of it are there concerns about the tenon length or the mortise depth? Or in other words, how much wood should be left in the center? I hope that makes sense!

If I just got a new Bandsaw, I would attempt to make the cabinet a bow front to match the tank. It would look much better, at least in my opinion.
I've been thinking the same thing. If you guys are up for the questions I might give it a try. The angled joints seem intimidating at this point. Or am I just making a big deal out of nothing?
 
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