[ryuken168]

Since the AGA contest I get many questions on the 10 gal and other. I decide to direct all question under this topic for all to share. For all that email me at [email protected] can post your questions here. I will try my best to answer all questions about anything you need to know. I'll even found you that perfect piece of driftwood needed for your tank.
Beside me, there are a few people on APC that has more experience then me so they can help out too.
So here I am, ask away...........

Thanks in advance for sharing your questions.
Ken

 

[ryuken168]

The beginning of my 10 gal.

The 10 gallon was designed around a piece of Malaysian driftwood that I brought at my LFS. It was a piece that had height, swimming holes, caves and a branch.
At the same time Eco-complete black substrate came out to the market.
I decided eco over the others for the color and the size of 2mm and less.
It took about a little less than 30 lbs of eco in the 10 gal. w/ 2 inch front and 3 inch back.
Eco was like a muti vitamin all in one super pill. Most of the plants were fast growers as you can see from the picture I attached.
The down side of eco is the algae problem when used w/ slow growing plants or ones that take along time to take root.
I have used over 80 bags of Eco this year and will not recommend it unless you have full tank of fast growing health plants.
I don't even bother dosing w/ Eco since the plants grow fine without Flourish. The only good thing is the pH buffer and my pH is 6.8.
I now use Este natural color gravel like the 4.5 gal tank in my gallery.
and dose root tablets for more control.
I never used flourite until the 2x 55 gallons and no algae problem and great outcome. The picture are on the APC gallery.
Next part will be the filtration and equipment I used for the 10 gal. and more on that driftwood.

 

[ryuken168]

redirecting a question.

I found that ryuken168 (Ken) had setup some beautiful looking tanks. One of those won an award on AGA (http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/?&op=showcase&category=0&vol=0&id=42)

I would like to ask Ken some questions and hope that everyone will benefit from it.
I am starting a 10G setup that I want to look just like Ken's (I hope)

Here are questions that I have:

1. What do you think about HOB filters such as AquaClear for this setup - it does not create much agitation if I keep water level up there?

2. I have bought the CO2 system with ladder diffuser (fermentation type from Hagen I think) do you think that that would be sufficient?

3. I know you have used a piece of drift wood and petrified wood. I know that something has got to be on the left and on the right of the tank for the plants to be that high, where is which piece and how did you fasten plants to it?

4. Where would I go to get the plants that you used? LFS? online?

5. Lighting. I currently have an incandescent strip where I can put 1 or 2 CF bulbs. I have 2 23W 5000K bulbs, but I was leaning toward using either 1 23W or 23W + 11W. Since they are facing opposite directions, one side of the tank may be lit with 23 and another with 11. Do you think that would not be good or with such a small tank that would not matter?

All in all it would be great to read a recipe from you.

Thanks

 

[ryuken168]

Filtration & CO2

Filtration I used for the 10 gal is the Aquaclear 2000 powerhead and a small Aquaclear prefilter. The powerhead has a flow rate of 158 US gal and was a close-out at Big Al's for $7.99 and only they carry the small prefilter. The only media I use is floss and bio-balls inside the tube. The bio-ball is used in maintain the cycle when changing the floss. The great thing about this powerhead is that it has a nozzle on top to control the air going into the impeller. It's not like the other ones with the air tube on the output which bypass the impeller. The Aquaclear 2000 disfuse the co2 into fine bubbles when it hits the impeller.
I first removed the plastic air control nozzle shaft and replace it with a tetra tec check valve. I cut and attach a airline tubing the same length as the plastic one I removed. I then attach it to the outlet of the valve and the other end into the powerhead. After that I attach a silcone tubing from the inlet of the valve to the yeast bottle.
I have done away with the yeast set-up since I hate changing the mixture every week. I now use a 20 lb bottle with a co2 regulator and a 3 way splitter for each one of my tanks.
The yeast mixture is not too constant so a co2 system is a good investment.
A complete system will run about $150-200.
10 gal set-ups you can also try the Rio aqua pump. I just brought a few to try out and they are quiet and very small, also works great.
they are the Taam Rio Aqua Pump model Mini 50, 90 or 180 pump and the flow rate is 60-100 gph.
I have not try or own a HOB filter, but if you can keep the water level high and lower the surface movement then it may work. So Greg only you can answer that question.
I've set-up one of those Hagen CO2 systems in a LFS. They work well in a small tank like the 10 gal. I try it on a 30 gal and only the plants near the diffuser grew faster.

Plants wise I would check out aquabid.com since most seller sell home grown plants. But for common type plants try your LFS.
I'm about to place a order with Florida Aquatic for a project in a week. So I might be able to help, just email me a list of what you're looking for and I get you some prices.

The next part of the topic is lighting, then I'll get back to the how to of the 10 gal.

Later
Ken

 

[ryuken168]

Driftwood

I have been looking for a decent small piece of driftwood to stick in there, but so far no luck.

I have since taken down the 10 gal a month ago. I wanted to try a different set-up. I was think about auctioning off that piece of driftwood along with the attachment of Xmas moss, lace fern and tons of petite nana on aquabid. Funny thing is I think I can get $200 if I was to auction that piece.

I had bigger plans for that driftwood and the 10 gal limited me to work aroung the space. So now that piece of driftwood is in a muck larger tank that I'm working on for the ADA contest.

I have a few nice Malaysian driftwood pieces in my basement that might work in for your 10 gal set-up. Let me take some pictures and post it on the sell trade board.
I will go into detail on the placing and preparing of the driftwood in the design part of the topic.

Later
Ken

 

[ryuken168]

Eco-uncomplete

Tom,

Their are other factors to consider to and somethimes planting enough doesn't always work.
Growing your own plants for use in a new tank is a plus. Since the plant starts to using up nutrient on the get go.
But for people who gets their plants at LFS or mail order sometime they are not in the best condition. They need time to recover and take root so algae will alway wins when using nutrient rich gravel like Eco.
Eco is the only substrate that I see algae attach itself onto the substrate and I don't see that problem w/ Flourite.
This is from experience also w/ Flourite and Eco side by side. I also plant the hell out of both tank. The Flourite tank had slow growing plants like Nana, Ferns and Crypo and the Eco has cheap plants like Hygro, Glosso and Indica. Both had excellent lighting and good amount of co2. The flourite set-up didn't even have algae on any of the nana leaves without using any algae eater. The Eco tank just came out of the algae stage at a few months and endless hours of cleaning.

I'm not saying that Eco is bad, but it's not for beginners who depend on LFS for their plants. I don't have algae problems either in my own tank which I grow my own plants. But for large tanks which I use Eco and need to order plants from OA or FA that is a different story.
In the beginning I had nothing to compare it too. But now after using other types of substrate I know the difference.It not a walk in the park.
Trust me, I have more to loss then anyone on this board with Eco, since I'm in talks w/ Betsey Moore at CaribSea for sponsorship.
I think CaribSea needs more R & D to get slow time release on their nutrient rich substrate.
But when your plants take off Eco is the way to go.
I also try pre-washing the Eco before adding it to the tank, it help keep the algae manageable.

Ken

 

[ryuken168]

Re: The beginning of my 10 gal.

So is it possible that certain algae problems in tanks that are less than 50 gallons are caused by the usage of flourite?

I can only tell you from experience that I don't have problems w/ Flourite.
One thing I did is pre-wash the hell out of the flourite before using it and used Eco right out of the bag. If you have problems w/ algae using Flourite than it should be attaching onto the flourite itself. If the algae comes and go than it's not your substrate.

Ken

 

[ryuken168]

One last thing

OK, I join this site to talk about Aquascaping. Now my topic is getting off track. Aquascaping design is what I know and that is what I came to share on my free time. Everything else is base on fact from trial and error from setting up tanks.

Thanks
Ken

 

[ryuken168]

Back on track

Thanks Carlos,

I apologize for the delay, been busy working on the 350+ gal plant tank.
I will show you all some pictures when I take them tomorrow.

Let's talk about lighting. Please see my question about CF bulbs and discuss you lighting comparing to that. Also please explain why you lifted the lights on a clamp above the tank.

The light I used in the 10 gal. set-up CF clamp on light from JBJ lighting.
The bulb was 36 watts at 6500 k. with a small reflector. Somehow the mirror reflector was not bright enough, so end up adding a 18 watts CF clamp on light on top of that.
Now if I have a choice, I'll only use AHSupply CF lights, they are amazing.
The good thing about clamp on lights is easy access and no lost of light from glass canopy or unclean glass.

I will begin the aquascaping topic on Thursday, I need to finish some stuff for my friend Bartek.

Later
Ken

 

[ryuken168]

Ken, did you set up the tank deciding where the focal point should be? Or did you just figure things out as it went. Trying to get things back on track.

The focal point is the moss hill in the center. Since the driftwood is alittle big for a 10. I had to draw the eye off the driftwood by covering it with moss to form a hill otherwise it's just a large piece of driftwood.

Do you feel that the a good deal of the "success" you have had with that fantastic aquascape is due to your plant selection?

No, the plant selection was what I had available at the time. Plant selection played a small part in the success of this 10 gal.

Bartek Lipczynski

Yes, he's a good friend of mines since our 9th & 10th place finish in 2003 ADA. We are trying brought plant aquascaping to the mainstream.

Again I apologize for the long pause. Here is one of the reasons why.
I'm still working on this 12 foot aquascape for a cafe in NYC and 2 other 150 gal. It's only 40% complete from the time I took this picture.
Check it out.

 

[ryuken168]

Creating the illusion of depth

The idea of an accent plant is a little dated. There needs to be some sort of focal point, but it doesn't need to be a specimen plant of any sort. It can just as easily be an open space... Creating the illusion of size in a smaller tank, or any tank for that matter, can be acheived partly by using small plants.
To maximize this effect, you would use plants with larger leaves in the front and get smaller as you work towards the rear and toward the focal point. This is only one device that you could use.

John hit it on the spot on some ideas I use to create depth.

To start the topic on creating depth or fooling the eye.

1st off placement of rocks and driftwood is the beginning.
I position the driftwood in a slight angle from back to front to make it appear the left side disappears to the back left.
Also for a small tank a piece of driftwood or rock must have character and fine details to look the part. You need holes, cracks texture and colorations to help with the overall feel. I plain driftwood or rock will hurt the design.
A good piece of driftwood or rocks set the tone for the design to come together.
The position of your light also helps decide your placement. I will tie this in later on in the discussion.
Now I remove the driftwood to prepare it. First decide on what plants to attach onto the wood or rock. The main ones I use is moss, riccia, nana and ferns. Now I drill holes to tie on the fishing line. I use 6 lb fishing line, since I no longer do freshwater fishing.
The drill holes helps the line stay in position and not slip off later on.

2nd Overlapping is another part of fooling the eye in believing there is more behind that. Take the moss hill for example, the right side looks like it is continuing down to the right side of the tank and the left is somewhere behind the ludwigia cross. I try to continue that effect by placing moss tie onto coconut shells on the right corner to show the hill wraps around the trunk of the fern. It's hard to see the moss on the right side since the java fern blocked out the light. I try using a spotlight, but it doesn't look nature.
The big picture is to combine the 3 basic layouts that tsunami discuss so nicely in his topic in overlapping form to create depth.
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42
Space between plants help with that illusion of depth by creating shadows.

3rd Now to the plants, again overlapping different color form the illusion of depth. All plants are planted in a triangle or round shape so it doesn't look flat. Not all plants selection is small growth. I just trim often to maintain the small leaves. So a lot of cutting and replanting.
It's very important to learn the growth rate of type of plant used to time the trimming period just right. I will get to that topic in the contest part of my new topic.

4th Background plays a big part in creating depth. A dark background like black or dark blue or even dark orange to black create depth.
Black works best for me when working with a narrow footprint so it's a safe bet.

5th Lighting is the last, but also one of the most important part in the final product. This is also a part of the contest topic. There are to positions to place a light source. One to grow your plants and the two to created shadows which create depth of feel. Foe the 10 gal moving the light to the front create overlapping shadow which create space and the illusion of a bigger tank.

I'm sure some of you don't care to entry in any contest, but check-out the spin off topic on preparing for a contest. There will be a few pointers that I will discuss in detail that will help in the overall design of your aquascape.

This topic will continue in a few days after follow up question that I will try to answer.
So start posting questions on what I cover so far.

Later
Ken